Boutique hotels
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Château La Thuilière
- Style
- French bliss
- Setting
- Bordeaux winelands
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Château les Merles
- Style
- Neoclassical winery
- Setting
- Bergerac's route des vins
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Château de la Couronne
- Style
- Modern-day fairy tale
- Setting
- Pretty Charente parkland
Self-catering properties
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The Hunting Lodge
- Style
- Characterful country pile
- Setting
- Banks of La Dronne
Dordogne Overview
France
- Countryside
- Bucolic backwaters
- Country life
- Wine, woods and winding rivers
In the warm valleys of southwestern France, where the Dordogne, Isle and Lot rivers wriggle their way to the Atlantic, the lush landscape, sunny days and mild temperatures combine to produce perfect conditions for grapes and truffles.
Happily these are also ideal surroundings in which to linger and enjoy the world’s finest wines and the region’s gastronomic specialities. The names of the honey-coloured mediaeval towns, villages and châteaux of the Périgord are instantly recognisable to gourmets, from the vineyards of Bergerac and St-Émilion to the truffle stalls of Périgueux. Here, time is measured in vintages and happiness comes by the glass.
Definitively Dordogne
The Périgord ‘black diamond’ truffles are famed for their earthy taste and aphrodisiac qualities, and can cost up to €600 a kilo. They grow well in the Dordogne and the main markets during the harvest season of December to early March are Périgueux, Sarlat and Brantôme. Out of season, look for truffles preserved in cognac.Local Knowledge
- Taxis
- There’s no chance of hailing a cab out in the sticks. In Bergerac, call 05 53 23 32 32 to pre-book your ride. Or burn off those foie gras calories and hire bicycles from Apolo on 05 53 61 08 16.
- Tipping culture
- Service charges are always added to restaurant bills, but a few extra euros are appropriate for waiters and taxi drivers.
- Siesta and fiesta
- Shops tend to shut 12h30–14h30. Restaurants are often closed on Sundays and Mondays outside the summer months.
- Packing tips
- A pinny for wannabe chefs, scales for the gourmands.
- Recommended reads
- Cyrano de Bergerac by Edmond Rostand; The Generous Earth by Philip Oyler.
- Cuisine
- The Périgord conjures up gastronomic dreams of wine, walnut oil, mushrooms and truffles, not to mention the ducks and geese reared to produce foie gras. A Périgord speciality is roast goose fried in its own fat with Landaise potatoes. If you can possibly eat any more, try some goat’s cheese or walnut tart with strawberries.
- Currency
- Euro.
- Dialling codes
- Country code for France: 33. Bergerac: 05.
- Do go/don't go
- Spring is sunny but changeable, with May and June absolute perfection. Summer is busy but ideal for canoeing on the Dordogne. September and October see fine weather and the all-important grape harvest. Winters are usually wet and mild.
