Sometimes with a movie, the cast is so renowned, you’re queuing at the cinema irrespective of its premise: so it is with Rosewood São Paulo. Directed by Jean Nouvel and produced with Rosewood’s trademark attention to place, this overhauled maternity hospital co-stars with a vertical-garden tower of balconied, panoramic rooms – both supported by glossy Philippe Starck interiors and dazzling Brazilian artworks and murals. The storyline to any stay here revolves around covetable, stylishly-curated quarters, stellar restaurants and pools (rooftop and garden). Spoiler alert: you’re in for an amazing time…
Double rooms from £507.28 (BRL3,182), including tax at 15 per cent. Please note the hotel charges an additional local city tax of BRL13.30 per room per night on check-out.
Rates include continental breakfast.
There are 13 wheelchair-adapted rooms in a choice of categories at Rosewood São Paulo and all communal areas are accessible by elevator.
At the hotel
Gym, concierge, valet parking, paid laundry service, butler service (suites only), free WiFi. In rooms: HD TV with Chromecast, minibar (including a mixology kit), Illy coffee maker, free tea-making kit, free purified water, Votary bath products, and Ploh bathrobes.
Our favourite rooms
Even though some are in the tower, some in the original Italianate building, there’s little to differentiate rooms of the same category at Rosewood São Paulo beyond their windows (original in the ‘hospital’ wing, floor-to-ceiling in the tower). Dressed opulently by Philippe Starck, all have sleek wood-panelled walls, bespoke furniture, curated objets d’art and sumptuous textiles in spice-rack hues. If you can secure a Deluxe King in the tower, your prize will be a private balcony. Premier Kings and upwards have a bath tub. We’ve fallen for the hotel’s Matarazzo Suites, all in the original building, and each with a generous lounge and arched French doors opening onto a sizable furnished balcony.
In the garden, screened by trees, between the tower and the original historic building, the Emerald Pool is a long, sculptural swimming spot of undulating edges and curved recesses (inspired by the rivers of Bonito): Rosewood São Paulo’s family-friendly option, it’s open from 9am until 6pm daily but has no lifeguard. What it does have, however, is a bar and menu of light bites for poolside refreshment. Up on the roof of the Matarazzo building, an infinity-edged pool with hand-painted tiles by Sandra Cinto crowns the eaves, edged by a substantial, pergola-shaded terrace bar, open 9am–6pm daily.
A 24-hour gym is kitted out with Technogym equipment; personal training is available from Tuesday to Sunday, 6.30am to 2.30pm. The hotel’s Asaya Spa has yet to be unveiled but we can’t wait to see how Rosewood marries sustainable wellness and creative design in this exciting new space.
Dress as if constantly attending gallery openings: asymmetrical pieces, anything black, oversized prints and sculptural jewellery are your allies.
A tower-topping penthouse suite is in the works, and the only certainties at this stage are that it’ll come with Philippe-Starck-polished interiors, as well as 360-degree superlative-worthy city views (and a butler with a head for heights…).
Welcome: some rooms take an extra bed, others have two queen-size beds, and there are interconnecting options. Babysitting can be arranged (from BRL200 an hour) and there are children’s menus at the hotel’s restaurants.
Rosewood São Paulo is a masterclass in environmentally responsible design and community engagement: its arrival brings with it 10,000 newly planted trees (including 250 in the vertical-garden tower). Its aim is to run on entirely renewable energy – investment in solar panels is helping the hotel to reach this goal – and there’s a waste-processing plant at the hotel where everything that can be is prepped for recycling and food waste is composted. While the hotel was being built, Rosewood invited a creative takeover from São Paulo’s glut of artists, resulting in sculptural installations in the grounds and a wealth of street art: its legacy is a 450-strong collection of artworks now installed in the finished buildings, showcasing work from well-known Brazilian artists but also up-and-coming talent.
Leather armchair-like benches and blouse-y pendant lights add to the allure of wall-side tables at Blaise; unsure whether to dine indoors or out, we’ll take a window table at Le Jardin; and at Taraz, there’s a buzz to dining at high stools beside the bar.
Casual city threads are acceptable by day; for dinner, when Rosewood’s trio of restaurants attract discerning Paulistas as well as hotel guests, you’ll want to up the glamour.
Le Jardin is Rosewood São Paulo’s all-day restaurant – described as an evolution of the hotel-lobby-lounge, with assorted wicker and wooden furniture arranged cosily in a wood-panelled dining room with a retractable roof, its tables spilling into a tree-shaded courtyard. It opens for breakfast with healthy, Parisian and Paulista set-menus, as well as eggs your way, including a truffle-dusted omelette or caviar-dotted eggs Royale. All-day plates are international, borrowing liberally from French and Italian cooking in mains such as filet mignon in porcini sauce and grilled octopus with house-made cavatelli: lighter options include oysters, charcuterie plates and goats’-cheese-and-fig tarts to share, as well as pizzette and sandwiches. There’s a bistro look and feel (globe pendant lights, polished-dark wood, tan upholstery) to the hotel’s South American restaurant Taraz: lunch (at weekends) and dinner both travel the continent, guided by Felipe Bronze’s culinary expertise, from Peruvian ceviche to Patagonian grills via hearty feijoadas and seafood moquecas from home turf Brazil. Antler chandeliers and log wall-panels bring the cosiness of a forest cabin to modern brasserie Blaise (its decor designed to conjure the Alpine home of poet and author Blaise Cendrars, a key influence on Brazil’s Modernist movement of the 1920s): Brazilian and French cooking come together in plates such as roasted salmon in truffle hollandaise with sautéed spinach and rotisserie organic chicken with morel sauce at this dinner-only eatery.
A back-lit bar, grand piano, celestial-looking ceiling mural and candle-lit tables set the scene for mixology and music (tending towards jazz- or singer-and-piano-rooted genres) at Rabo di Galo, where the signature cocktail list includes a sake-and-gin-laced, coconut-water ‘Jin Jin’, and an Apérol spritz-style rum-laced cocktail, the ‘Matilda’, and a snack menu featuring tempura aubergine and chicken Scotch eggs is equally impressive.
Blaise is open Monday to Saturday, 7pm–11pm; Le Jardin is open from 6.30am until late daily; Taraz is open 7pm–11.30pm except at weekends, when it opens at noon (closed Mondays).
A dedicated menu can be ordered to your room or suite, around the clock.
Rosewood São Paulo is near Avenida Paulista in the Bela Vista neighborhood and is a trailblazer for the Cidade Matarazzo, a development of shops, restaurants and an arts centre.
São Paulo International (GRU) is 45 minutes by road away from Rosewood São Paulo, depending on traffic; for domestic air connections, Congonhas-São Paulo airport (CGH) is a half-hour drive away. The hotel can arrange private transfers from either airport, starting at BRL850 for CGH and BRL1,100 for international arrivals (both fares exclude taxes).
The hotel’s nearest Metro station is Trianon Masp, only five minutes away on foot.
Pull up to the front of the hotel any time of day or night, right by the lobby, and enjoy valet parking in the hotel’s on-site car park from BRL60 for 12 hours.
Worth getting out of bed for
Hand-painted pool tiles by Sandra Cinto, walkway murals by Caligrapixo, original drawings by Virgilio Neto and stained-glass by Vik Muniz – before you step outside in search of art, explore the Rosewood São Paulo’s rich creative legacy. Bela Vista is a neighbourhood shaped by Italian immigrants – the hotel’s Hospital Matarazzo building is a good example of the Italianate architecture that once typified the district. Rosewood São Paulo is part of a wider development to repurpose these 20th-century buildings with shops, restaurants and a cultural centre as part of Cidade Matarazzo. In the meantime, you’re a walk away from the stores and bright lights of arterial Avenida Paulista (closed to traffic on Sundays), which is also where you’ll find museum-on-your-doorstep, MASP: the Museum of Art of São Paulo, established in the 1940s by businessman Assis Chateaubriand and today bringing together an 11,000-strong international collection of paintings, sculpture, fashion, photography and video art in Lina Bo Bardi’s mid-century architectural masterpiece. Popular neighbourhoods just north of the hotel include Vila Madalena, a boho district of art galleries, indie shops and cafés interspersed with colourful street art (check out painted lane Beco do Batman). Neighbouring Pinheiros feels more fashionable: perhaps it’s the nightlife and concentration of restaurants; perhaps it’s the art galleries or lively market. Tree-lined Rua Oscar Freire is at the heart of the upscale Jardins neighbourhood, lined with shops, micro-malls and cafés; this is also where you’ll find the Museum of Image and Sound (MIS) – a visual treat with displays of photography, design and more that are but a tiny part of its vast catalogue. For fresh air and green spaces, hire bikes and wheel around Ibirapuera Park. Soccer devotees won’t want to miss the Museu do Futebol (a cycle or cab ride from the hotel).
In Vila Buarque, north of the hotel, A Casa do Porco is tipped as one of the world’s finest restaurants: no pressure, then, on Jefferson Rueda, who takes a nose-to-tail approach to his celebration of all things porcine, with plates including pancetta crackling with guava, sushi de papada (pork jowl), and Pork San Ze, slow-roasted over six to nine hours; the cocktails are top-notch, too. Off Rua Oscar Freire, a short cab-ride from Rosewood São Paulo, A Bela Sintra serves polished Portuguese plates – many of them cod-based – overseen by Patricia Sampaio Bettencourt in a minimalist, spotlit dining room full of linen-topped tables. São Paulo has a large Japanese population and by association Japanese dining: since Toshio Kinoshita set up his restaurant in the 1970s, Kinoshita has continued to innovate, bringing contemporary cuisine from the immigrant’s homeland to work-of-art plates crafted with seasonal ingredients. Some come to rooftop, irreverent-fusion restaurant Abaru solely for the starred mixology masterminded by Alê D’Agostino, but to seek out ‘Jambutinis’ (a kind of cachaça-based martini) alone is to miss out on chef Onildo Rocha’s crab bâo, shrimp-moqueca gnocchi, spiced pork tortillas and vegetable couscous bowls.
If you find yourself in Vila Buarque, house-brewed coffee and towering toasted sandwiches await at Takkø Café. On Rua São Joaquim in Liberdade, Bori Café is a kiosk-like café with high stools and wall-mounted counters where the coffee is expertly crafted and an assortment of pastries, cakes and cookies beckons to the sweet-toothed.
A broad choice of sake, shochu, beers and cocktails can be found at pale-wood and bamboo-panelled izakaya (a kind of traditional Japanese bar) Yorimichi in Paraíso, south of Avenida Paulista. From the same stable as A Casa do Porco, Bar da Dona Onça in the curvaceous Copan Building is a cosy cocktail bar dressed in wood panelling and chalkboards with tables alfresco out front where you can pair your caipirinhas with anything from bar snacks to feijoadas from Janaína Rueda’s Brazil-inspired menu. In Consolação, Barban Beer is a club-like space with a first-floor terrace where the beers (bottled and draft) and cocktails are frequently accompanied by live-music or DJ sets.
Every hotel featured is visited personally by members of our team, given the Smith seal of approval, and then anonymously reviewed. As soon as our reviewers have returned from this upscale urban hotel in Brazil and unpacked their coffee and cachaça, a full account of their culture-crammed trip will be with you. In the meantime, to whet your wanderlust, here's a quick peek inside Rosewood São Paulo…
Think of São Paulo and Bela Vista might not be the first neighborhood that springs to mind (Vila Madalena, Pinheiros and Jardins are generally better known). And yet its location near arterial Avenida Paulista, as well as the arrival of Cidade Matarazzo – a development of shops, restaurants and an arts centre, for which Rosewood São Paulo is a trailblazer – are putting this bustling district of Italianate architecture and soaring skyscrapers, punctuated by tree-shaded avenues and pocket gardens, on the map. Rosewood’s first South American address is showing up on international style radars, too: famed architect Jean Nouvel has overseen its reinvention, realising the cosseting potential of its former-maternity-hospital home, and pairing it with a vertical-garden tower that’s reaching new heights in sustainable design. A creative takeover that was installed while the hotel was mid-build has inspired a permanent art collection: to say its 450 showstopping artworks and murals ‘decorate’ the buildings would be an understatement – their vibrant, Brazilian colour is the perfect festa-like foil for Philippe Starck’s demure interiors, spicing up hallways, rooms, bars and restaurants – even the elevators. Let them be the creative spark for recces of the city’s artistic heritage, starting with the short-walk-away Museum of Art of São Paulo (MASP).