Monument

I arrived in Athens late at night, glimpsing the Acropolis all lit up in eager anticipation as I approached the city centre. My taxi pulled up to an elegantly restored Neoclassical mansion in the heart of vibrant neighbourhood Psyri. The door opens on cue thanks to the doorman’s watchful eye, and I’m warmly greeted, handed my key and guided up Monument’s original winding staircase to my suite on the second floor. There are only nine rooms and suites in this elegant stay, creating an intimacy that epitomises the boutique-hotel idyll. Each is unique, marrying original features from German architect Ernst Ziller’s building with contemporary design. Think meticulously restored ceiling frescoes, limewashed walls in muted tones, intricate Persian carpets and contemporary bronze accents. I stayed in the Epos Suite, but I have my eye on the pièce de résistance Nidus Suite for next time, which has its own spacious wooden terrace, complete with a Jacuzzi that just so happens to overlook the Acropolis. 

On the first morning, I opened the curtains to a dazzling view of the city’s iconic monument, perched regally on its hill, and decided to order breakfast to my private marble balcony so I could gaze in awe for as long as possible. Made-to-order dishes included Greek classics such as strapatsada, the local version of scrambled eggs, rich with tomato and flecked with crumbly feta, as well as healthy mushroom- and tofu-topped toast and immune-boosting smoothie options. I lingered over my coffee listening to the gentle background bustle from the orange-tree-lined churchyard below, basking in the late autumn sunshine and reading about Greek myths from the point of view of the witch goddess Circe. 

Ready to emerge from my cocoon, I grabbed a koulouri (a sesame-dotted pretzel of sorts) from a hole-in-the-wall bakery and a speciality coffee from Dope Roasting Co as fuel for the climb up the cobbled streets to see the Acropolis up close. This was in November, and I couldn't recommend going at that time of year more; the sunshine is plentiful, the Mediterranean waters in the nearby coves are still warm and the lack of crowds means you can take leisurely laps of the Parthenon, the Propylaea gates and the Temple of Athena Nike. I took the opportunity to wander round twice and work up an appetite for lunch at no-menu cellar restaurant Diporto, where the Greek owner watches over his pots of bubbling stews in the corner. 

Another 10,000-odd steps through the winding streets, boutique shops and archaeological sites was rewarded by an hour of relaxation back in Monument’s private wellness area (a spell here is included with each stay at the hotel). I wrapped up in my bathrobe and slid on my slippers to pad down to the basement, where a pot of green tea and a selection of Greek sweet treats awaited in the candlelit room. I rotated between the wood sauna, marble hammam and cold power-showers and emerged back in the reception area feeling serene and rejuvenated. 

Sunsets in Athens are magical, with a backdrop of orange and pink behind the Acropolis, mountains and Aegean Sea. I took advantage of the early sunset (it's dark by 6pm at this time of year) and snuggled up in my huge custom-designed bed, propped up by squishy pillows to watch the film Troy (yes, I'm a cliché, but if it helps I also watched a few episodes of Friends on Netflix). The hotel doesn’t have a restaurant, but the lounge is an inviting spot for an apéritif – a Monkey 47 gin and tonic, perhaps, accompanied by a cigar, if you’re into that. Just round the corner is deli-cum-bistro Ta Karamanlidika tou Fani (its main outpost is only a 10-minute walk away, as are many excellent tavernas). Pillowy chunks of pitta bread mop up silky aubergine dip, house-cured pastrami adds a peppery spice to a comforting chickpea stew, and a syrupy pastry nest tops the kunefe (a pastry filled with Greek cheese) for dessert.  

On my second day I chose to have breakfast in the elegant reception room where a small buffet is laid out, complete with cheese pastries and dinky jars of local honey and homemade jams, along with the more substantial hot eats. I opt for a nutrient-rich juice and a plate of cured meats that comes studded with dried figs and cranberries. After eking out every last minute of my time in the room, watching the light softly hit the bed sheets and making everything look like it’s ready for an interiors-magazine shoot, I prised myself away for check-out, feeling genuinely gutted to be leaving such a serene cocoon right in the heart of the hustle and bustle of Athens, and already myth-ing those Acropolis views.