Gecko Hotel & Beach Club

Worth getting out of bed for

While its sister isle Ibiza became the locus for go-hard clubbing, Mallorca mightily cosmopolitan and Menorca a destination du jour, Formentera was sitting pretty outside the spotlight, and as such has stop-you-in-your-tracks scenery and blow-your-mind beaches that are relatively crowd-free. Migjorn Beach, the hotel’s headline act, is a 10km stretch of soft white sand lapped by gentle azure waters that are safe to swim and paddle in. The best way to experience it is at the hotel’s Beach Club, where there’s a steady stash of champagne, show-off DJs, a delightful Med menu and the option to book spa treatments. Aside from glamorous genetics, Migjorn’s also home to some cheery chiringuitos, wander-worthy trails through the fragrant pine forest at its edge and some parasol-shaded sunloungers for hotel guests. It’ll put you on quite a potent high, and if you want to keep the serotonin flowing, partake in one of the free sunrise yoga sessions held by the hotel’s very own guru Yiannis Mukta Om (private lessons available too). And, in season, see which renowned yogi will be leading the hotel’s wellness retreats. Hire of stand-up paddle-boarding equipment is included free in your room rate and for a charge kayaking can be arranged. Or you can take the hotel’s zippy e-bikes for a spin, an excellent and eco-friendly way of exploring the island. Keep your eyes peeled for the Circuitos Verdes (Green Routes), 40km of meandering paths that take you through the most soul-stirring landscapes. Or hoof it through the countryside on a steed from Club Hipica Can Savines. Charter a boat to go cove-hopping for the day, fish, dive through candy-coloured coral fields, or for a front seat to the sunset with champagne. With its whitewashed 18th-century buildings and formidable central church, Sant Francesc Xavier village feels like a time capsule and has some engaging museums. Follow in Bob Dylan’s footsteps (allegedly) and let the view of the Barbary coast from the Cap de Barbaria lighthouse inspire you, take in the colourful patchwork of salt flats at Ses Salines Natural Park, and for more beachy beauty, head north to Illetes Beach, a spit of smooth sand flanked by calm colourful waters.

Local restaurants

There’s no need to stand on ceremony when it comes to dining in Formentera, even fine diners aren’t the tie-and-dress-shoe sorts, and some of the island’s best food can be found in the higgledy-piggledy chiringuitos along Migjorn Beach. Say, Chiringuito Pelayo, with its steaming paella pans; ramshackle, thatch-roofed Kiosko 62 for enchiladas, nachos and ham and cheese platters washed down with boozy lemonades; or Flipper & Chiller whose sand-dusted terrace has superlative views as you get stuck into crab-stuffed macaroni and sea-fresh catches – it’s owned by Nacho Vidal, a popular Spanish pornstar who pivoted to other hungers. Further inland, in picturesque pastoral landscapes, eateries get more romantic, such as A Mi Manera, where you can see the ingredients you’re eating grow around you in lantern-lit gardens; the menu is simple, with a focus on high-quality meat and whatever the day-boats bring in, but delicious. Elderly trees tower over the terrace at Can Carlos, and pan-European dishes elevate any date night, with suckling lamb, foie gras and plentiful pasta. You’ll spot Chezz Gerdi on the north coast thanks to its cherry-red VW van painted with peace signs. Fun and freewheeling, with live music some evenings, the only thing it’s very serious about is its food and cocktails – the artisanal pizzas are revelatory, its sushi flavourful and the king-crab bar crafts crustacea with aplomb. Pair with a Negroni Latino, a concoction of rum, port, vermouth and cinnamon, garnished with a bay leaf.

Local bars

The Blue Bar, which is indeed painted in an Yves Klein-esque hue, was once frequented by the likes of Hendrix and Dylan, and Pink Floyd, who took to its stage; the current owners have kept up its ‘place to be’ rep – one half is DJ Kaya, whose breadth of musical influence makes for a top soundtrack. Further along the coast, Lucky Bar is teeny with few seats on its terrace, but it doesn’t stop punters piling in for budget-friendly beers, Aperol Spritzes and a friendly feel. Both bars are close to the hotel and Migjorn Beach.