Elix

All Inclusive; two words that once would have brought me out in hives, now beckon to me like a siren’s call. As my most notable holiday accessories these days are three young children (rather than a case filled with great books and a killer bikini) the appeal of mass-scale cosseting has become irresistible. Having nurtured a long and deeply held prejudice that such holidays meant jettisoning all aspirations of quality and style in a Faustian pact for convenience and ‘free’ childcare, we approached with caution. But it is not so at Elix – this is all-inclusive, Smith-style.

Perched high on the cliffs above the Ionian coast, we quickly discovered the only drama here is the setting, everything else is comfort and ease. After an hour’s drive from the airport, we arrived and were welcomed into a lofty but cosy lounge, handed a cocktail, and introduced to the hotel. This was a little overwhelming for weary travellers and perhaps could have waited ‘til morning. Tired from our trip, we wanted to slink off to our room and sleep away the journey, but everyone was warm and friendly, and eventually, we were shown to our room.

Much excitement from all concerned to find it capacious, and simply but stylishly furnished, looking out to the starlit sea. Full marks from tired parents for the deliciously comfortable bed and an equal-sized interconnecting room that enabled our kids to sleep separately from us, and enjoy the luxury of their own hotel room to trash (Keith Richards would have been proud). We returned to this haven every evening after a hard day of lounging, eating and drinking our fill, to find Sophia the housekeeper had left tiny chocolates and origami towels in the shape of ducks and elephants on the kids’ meticulously made-up beds which were a highlight of everyone’s trip. Travelling in October, the weather was a little unpredictable but with breathtaking views of Karavostasi beach from our room, and the terrace attached to each, we could enjoy the beauty of the place even in a thunderstorm.

The next morning, energies renewed, we trotted downstairs to the terraced restaurant for breakfast. Flanked by the wooded mountains of the bay, with panoramic views across the water to Corfu, it serves delicious and constantly changing feasts for breakfast, lunch and dinner – a mixture of traditional Greek and international cuisine. The staff were the sweetest, particularly to the children, one memorable morning bringing our grumpy four-year-old a plate of marshmallows for breakfast, because why not, it’s all included!

A vast and elegant island-gazing infinity pool serves as the focal point of the hotel and we spent some idle hours on one of the many loungers there while the kids made friends and we made the most of the bar. There is a tiny, awning-covered pool for toddlers adjacent to the larger one which our littlest inhabited like his own rock pool. Many of the hotel’s rooms have private swim-up pools which were enthusiastically coveted by our children, and if you have had the good sense to limit your offspring to a manageable number, I’d highly recommend you request one (they sleep a maximum of 4).

What felt particularly special here though, was Karavostasi beach far below, reached by hundreds of winding steps through the pine trees – or the hotel’s funicular – where you could spend the day catching up on your holiday reading while the children play in the water under the watchful eye of the lifeguards, with lunch, drinks and endless ice cream available on tap from the hotel’s beach cafe.

Thirty minutes of kayak hire per day was included with our stay, but high winds meant we could only venture out once to explore the bay's azure waters. The children hiked up the mountain behind the beach with the Kids Club on another, which I felt was impressively intrepid of the team. Childcare is available for a few hours every morning and afternoon (though it needs to be pre-booked) with kind, competent and enthusiastic young staff who worked hard to ensure everyone enjoyed themselves whatever their age and interests.

This is a place where you can be as indolent or active as you wish, with all the usual all-inclusive activities available - gym, spa (I had the greatest massage of my life), water sports, yoga, and excursions to the surrounding area. The latter are not included, but we didn’t want to miss the chance to snorkel in the otherworldly, cyan waters of anti-Paxos on a boat trip to the famous Blue Caves which which is offered by the hotel as a day tour – though make sure you book ahead as it is very popular.

Stacked into the mountainside and arrayed over several floors, a stay at Elix entails a fair amount of scampering up and down steps, so while it would be hard to recommend for anyone with physical challenges (though there are lots of lifts), there’s plenty of opportunity to get your steps in and ameliorate the worst excesses of the all-you-can-eat aspects of your stay.

We had a wonderful time at Elix, but ironically, my very favourite thing about it was nothing to do with the hotel itself: there is a tiny cove just a five-minute walk back down the winding, wild cyclamen-lined road that terminates at the hotel. Sheltered from the October winds, this bay was flanked by gnarly olive trees – a perfect, pebble-lined, emerald-green swimming spot where we saw hundreds of colourful fish, and even an octopus while snorkelling. I would escape there most days for a swim. For all the blissful indulgence of having your every need catered to, for me, the greatest joy of travel will always be the thrill of exploring and discovering a little gem of peace and solitude far from the madding crowd.