Country House Villadorata

Worth getting out of bed for

Sicily is all about slow living, and there’s plenty of that to be getting on with here. When, or rather if, you tire of sipping Aperol spritz from a poolside lounger, sign up for a cooking lesson, salute the Sicilian sun in a morning yoga class or put your sommelier hat on and join a wine-tasting session in the cellar. The walking tour of the estate will delight dendrophiles, with every kind of dolce-vita grove from olive and almond to carob and citrus. And, with Noto’s centro storico just a 15-minute drive away, it’d be silly not to indulge her honey-hued charms with a visit or two. In 1693, a devastating earthquake toppled the town – and around 70 of her neighbours. When it came to rebuilding the city, great baroque architects left no gargoyle or plump-faced cherub unturned. The city is awash with curvy, terracotta stone, willowy, wrought-iron balconies, buttressed with all kinds of fantastical embellishments. The hotel’s sister property Seven Rooms Villadorata can be found in Noto’s largest palazzo, the 16th-century residence of Prince Nicolaci, whose balconies are among the most photographed on the island with their carved lions, sphinxes and hippogriffs. The historic centre is almost perfectly symmetrical so it’s easy to navigate and you can tell the churches from the municipal buildings based on height alone – the former towering directly over the latter atop two, three, even four flights of stairs. A reminder of who held the power, not to mention the sheer volume of them. Yes, Noto has 33 churches in total, but our favourites have to be Chiesa Madonna del Carmine and the awe-inspiring Basilica di San Nicolò. Fans of design should make a beeline for Palazzo Castelluccio, an 18th-century palace masterfully restored to its former glory with interiors that seem like they’ve been conjured by the Sicilian lovechild of Sofia Coppola and Wes Anderson. Follow it up with a spot of retail therapy at Venerabili Ragazze, where you’ll find the hotel’s own brand of soaps and potions, Officine Villadorata, for sale alongside funky homewares and artisan accessories. By train, you’re in easy reach of the island’s other baroque belles too, sample the Aztec-inspired chocolate of Modica, trace the steps of Montalbano in Scicli and taste your way round foodie favourite, Ragusa. Or, if you’ve a car, Vendicari Nature Reserve, San Lorenzo or Isola delle Correnti are some of the most serene spots in south-east Italy to top-up your tan.

Local restaurants

At the side of Palazzo Nicolaci in the centre of Noto’s old town, Viva Il Bistro is the place to be for stylish cocktails and a modern menu of Sicilian favourites. The setting is cool and contemporary with abstract artworks and neons lining the walls, but it’s Chef Ida Brenna’s menu that steals the show here with dishes like fried pizza, tomatoes and Sicilian stracciatella; roasted octopus with mango brunoise, chilli pepper and lime; or maccheroni with white genovese ragout, raw red tuna and wild fennel. Otherwise, Anche Gli Angeli is one of Noto’s most beloved trattorias and chicest LGBTQ spot. Housed in an 18th-century crypt (an admittedly unlikely spot for a lively evening), the restaurant makes a fine place to cool off after a day of sun-worshipping. Chef Giovanni combines contemporary techniques and time-honoured tradition in his best-of-Sicily menu, which features the likes of anchovies in lemon leaves, sardine lollipops, and linguine alle vongole with Bronte pistachios, Noto almonds and white-wine sauce.

Local cafés

There aren’t many cafés that could survive two World Wars and a pandemic, but Caffè Sicilia has, and she’s still going strong at the ripe old age of 124. Now helmed by fourth-generation pastry chef Corrado Assenza, the recently renovated pasticceria draws international gourmands with its almond-milk granita, cannoli filled with mousse-light ricotta and liquor-soaked cassata topped with candied fruit.

Local bars

Ritrovino is a petite wine bar tucked up a side street near Noto’s royal gate. Here, you’ll find a great selection of classic Sicilian grapes alongside funkier alternatives from some of the region’s up-and-coming winemakers. And Enoteca Il Brillo Parlante is worth the 10-minute stoll from the historical centre for its curated selection of Sicilian wines and accompanying charcuterie.