Cast adrift somewhere between the sensory saturnalia of Marrakech and the Atlas Mountains’ otherworldly peaks, Caravan by Habitas Agafay’s luxe Berber-style tents float on undulating desert dunes beneath silent starlit skies.
Planes
The hotel’s a 40-minute drive from Marrakech Airport. Transfers can be arranged in advance for groups of up to six people.
Trains
Marrakech train station is a 40-minute cab ride from the camp, and connects to Casablanca, Rabat and Fez.
Automobiles
You can rent a car at the airport and there’s private parking at the camp entrance, though camels and quad bikes tend to be the preferred modes of transport out among the dunes.
Worth getting out of bed for
Just because you’re in the desert doesn’t mean the only things worth doing are cooling off in the pool, cooling off with a hibiscus cocktail and cooling off with a mint tea in the shade of the ancient olive tree. Although there’s a very solid argument to be made for doing just this, on a blissed-out loop, for the duration of your stay.
But, should you feel even the slightest urge to get active, Caravan by Habitas Agafay has you covered. The spectrum of activities covers everything from meditation in the dunes to kicking up dust on desert quad-biking adventures. Wake up to a rejuvenating morning yoga session beneath the purpose-built geodesic dome and learn how to bake bread to traditional local recipes before enjoying the fruits of your labour fresh from the clay oven.
How you choose to connect with the desert’s otherworldly landscapes may well be dictated by your tolerance for saddle soreness. Brave souls can navigate rocky dunes on camelback or, for a slightly smoother ride, cruise through aromatic eucalyptus forests on an e-bike tour. Hire a dune buggy for maximum comfort and greater manoeuvrability on the shifting sands – and to fulfil that lifelong Mad Max fantasy of yours. Pleasure-seekers of a more sensitive nature can opt for gentler pursuits. The traditional evening tea ceremony, afloat on a super-soft woven picnic blanket beneath burning sunset skies, for example. Or interpretative desert dancing in the dunes. A blackboard by reception details each day’s activities, and has also been known to include the likes of calligraphy classes and stargazing sessions, complete with telescopes and laser pens.
Guided excursions to traditional Berber villages in the Atlas Mountains can also be organised and you will, of course, want to unleash your best haggling game on the Marrakech souks. Successful navigators of these atmospheric narrow lanes, seduced by the heady scents of exotic spices and the traders’ irresistible patter, can expect to emerge bearing armfuls of tea, saffron, jewellery, Berber rugs, and Moroccan lamps.
Local restaurants
Scenic, off-grid isolation is the mantra at Caravan by Habitas Agafay, and the restaurant here stands up well to multiple repeat visits. Which is lucky, considering the nearest decent eating and drinking options are 40 minutes’ drive through the desert, in Marrakech.
The views at La Terrasse des Épices are worth the pilgrimage alone, all terracotta Medina rooftops, and the Atlas Mountains lurking on heat-hazed horizons. The food ain’t half bad either. Opt for the signature tanjia Marrakchia, a lamb dish that’s slow-cooked in clay pots, and spiced with ras el hanout, ginger, saffron, and cumin. Diners with enough self-discipline to save space for dessert reap the rewards: options include decadent chocolate pastilla, amlou (argan oil, almond and honey) tiramisu and a plate of six (count ‘em) traditional Moroccan pastries.
Another perennial Marrakech favourite, Le Jardin is true to its name. This peaceful garden oasis is hidden just metres from the Medina’s main square, bordered by lofty 16th-century walls which enclose a frenzy of foliage and emerald-green tiling, and a menu of Moroccan classics including mezze, tagines and orange-blossom crème brûlée.
Local bars
Cocktail hour sees the Marrakech in-crowd make a beeline for upscale rooftop joints. Luxury hotel El Fenn’s crowning glory is its terrace, which boasts some of the finest Koutoubia Mosque close-ups in town. Pick your viewing spot from the 30-foot marble bar, where the signature saffron-infused El Fenn Mule delivers quite the post-souk kick.
A short stumble round the corner, Le Grand Café de la Poste promises relaxed old-school glamour. Think dusky pink exteriors, checkerboard marble floors, a grand central staircase and great swaying palm fronds both inside and out. Try to resist the (admittedly strong) temptation to start loudly quoting lines from Casablanca after your third gin fizz. You can thank us later.
