Luxury holidays in Edinburgh

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When to go

How do you cope among huddled masses? The city’s at its liveliest in August, when festival-goers double the population to more than a million. Anyone who doesn’t care for crowds, street performers and pushy flyer-mongers should wait till September, when it’ll be less packed and still sunny. Intermittently.

Getting there

  • Planes

    Edinburgh International Airport ( receives countless daily flights from London as well as UK regional hubs and more than 40 European airports and New York. The 30-minute taxi ride into town costs from about £20. The 24-hour Lothian Buses Airlink service takes 45 minutes and costs £3.50; an open return costs £6 (
  • Trains

    The main station is Waverley, in the city centre; the other is Haymarket, about a mile away. East Coast Trains has fast, frequent trains linking London King’s Cross with the East Midlands, Yorkshire, the North East of England and Scotland on the East Cost Main Line (0845 722 5225; ScotRail’s overnight sleeper service departs from London Euston seven nights a week (
  • Automobiles

    Edinburgh is at the heart of the Scottish motorway network so is easily accessible. It’s roughly six and a half hours from London – beyond Newcastle the route is particularly picturesque.
  • Taxis

    You can hail a black cab from anywhere on the street, or pre-book a minicab through your hotel. Central Radio Taxis (+44 (0)131 229 2468) is the city’s largest operator.

Water of life

Water of life

From the Highlands’ honey and heather notes to the briny, peaty malts of the Isles, there’s a taste of Scotland in every nip of whisky. Winding through the lush valley of the River Spey, the Malt Whisky Trail takes in behind-the scenes tours, a historic distillery and hands-on barrel-crafting sessions. 

Out on Islay, a small west-coast island, rugged bays and sheltered inlets house eight distilleries. One of the oldest in Scotland, Bowmore smokes its malt in peat-fired kilns, infusing them with flavours of smoke, salt and seaweed. 

But you needn’t travel that far from the city: Glenkinchie Distillery runs daily shuttles from Edinburgh, and Glengoyne and Auchentoshan are both an easy drive from Glasgow. Or if it’s a dreich, drizzly night, cosy up in old-school whisky pubs The Pot Still (Glasgow) or The Bow Bar (Edinburgh) for a soul-warming dram.

Thirsty for more? Check out this handy distillery guide.

Colourful wildlife

Colourful wildlife

Flamboyant Highland cows and tiny ponies may be Scotland's most iconic wildlife, but the country is also home to majestic birds of prey and thriving marine life. Time a visit for the red deer’s autumnal ruts: ranger-led trips in Wester Ross are the best way to witness the dramatic roaring and clashing of antlers. 

Stay at the Pool House, an exotically decorated loch-facing retreat where guests can watch seals from the sitting room. More easily accessible from Edinburgh, Perthshire offers deer-spotting and owl encounters with kilted rangers on 4x4 off-road safaris

From high crags to moors, the unspoilt Highlands provide a range of habitats and sanctuaries: look out for golden eagles, otters and wildcats. During the breeding season, Cape Wrath is home to a colony of puffins. Charter a boat for a chance to spot dolphins and minke, orca and sperm whales. Still looking for the elusive haggis? Kelvingrove Museum has a fairly convincing taxidermied specimen.