British Airways and Cathay Pacific fly direct to Hong Kong International from the UK, US, Australia and major destinations in Asia and China. One-way transfers, arranged by the hotel, are HK$700 for four, HK$800 for up to six, with an HK$100 supplement from midnight to 6am.
Hong Kong Hung Hom station is a 15-minute drive from Tuve; a train ride here from Beijing and Shanghai can take up to 24 hours, but Guangzhou is a relatively short two-hour ride away. The closest Metro Station is Tin Hau, just a five-minute walk. A Metro tourist day pass is HK$65 for 24 hours, and if you’re there for more than a few days, invest in an Octopus Card (a HK$50 deposit, then top up when needed). Tickets from Hong Kong Airport are HK$100 one-way, HK$160 for a return trip.
It’s possible to apply for a temporary driving licence in Hong Kong for a small fee, subject to passing a written test, but city-wide Metro links out to Kowloon and lantau Island make it an unnescessary hassle. If you do acquire a licence, keep in mind that it may not be valid in mainland China.
Worth getting out of bed for
From Tuve’s peaceful inner sanctum, the Tin Hau district is a sensory onslaught, with rushing traffic ahead and on the flyover above, a flurry of pedestrians and pockets of activity wherever you look. Causeway Bay is densely packed with malls and market stalls; Lee Gardens is a temple of high-fashion boutiques, a spree in Hysan Place covers 17 floors, and Jardine’s Crescent market has ironic tees and colourful accessories galore. The lower terminus for the tram to Victoria Peak is a 10-minute taxi ride from the hotel; the vertiginous journey ends at a viewing platform overlooking the harbour, Kowloon and the mountains beyond. On descending, pick up antique propaganda posters and other curios along Hollywood Road, and pop into PMQ for sculptural jewellery pieces, niche labels and cool homewares; Cat Street market along Upper Lascar Row has unique vintage pieces. Oil exhbition space is a 10-minute walk from Tuve for intriguing artwork, and industry big-hitters – the Gagosian and White Cube – lie to the west, by smaller spaces, such as Hanart TZ and Saamlung galleries. K11 Art Mall, on Hanoi Road, is a hot-bed of artsy happenings. For a glimpse of Hong Kong history, visit Lin Fa Temple by the Central Library; each year from the 14–16 September, beasts snake their way past this monument during the Fire Dragon Dance festival. Or ride the Metro to Kowloon to stop by empire-red Wong Tai Sin Temple and meditate by the charming nunnery pagoda in Nan Lian Garden.
Whether you’re craving dumplings or golden, crisp-skinned duck, Hong Kong will sate your appetite. In North Point, a 15-minute walk away, hole-in-the-wall dim-sum joint Tim Ho Wan (+852 2332 2896) has turned the heads of Michelin-acclaimed chefs. Dairy isn’t a Chinese cuisine staple, but the cheese boards – and brunches – at Classified (+852 2857 3454) are excellent; more traditional pork and duck dishes are found at Golden China (+852 2545 1472) on Jubilee Street in Wan Chai. The won-ton noodles topped with beef brisket at Mak’s Noodle (+852 2854 3810) and the brûléed sago pudding at Fung Shing (+852 2881 7873) in Causeway Bay are both highly praised. To the west, Duddell’s (+ 852 2525 9191) is a slick dining space with warm woods, cool marble and sunshine yellow banquettes, and a garden terrace. Tattooed chef Nathan Green heads up Rhoda (+852 2177 5050), which has a similar industrial look to Tuve. It’s named after his grandma and the menu reveres high-quality local ingredients and shows Green’s impressive ingenuity, with pig’s head terrine and pineapple chutney, agria potato purée with asparagus and fresh truffle, and puddingy cheesecakes.The wine list was curated by Elliot Faber, the sommelier at superb beak-to-tailfeather eatery Yardbird (+852 2547 9273). Ho Lee Fook (+852 2810 0860) isn’t just amusingly named, it brings together the spirit of New York’s Chinatown with traditional Cha Chaan Feng teahouses in a sleek space on Elgin Street.
The hotel doesn’t serve breakfast, so head to Pacific Coffee on Ngan Mok’s street, the Coffee Academics in Causeway Bay, or Artisan Cafe (+852 2563 0055) on Electric Road for a strong brew and brunch goodies. Cafe Locomotive on Wun Sha street, is a quirky lunching spot that looks like a vintage train carriage, and Daruma on Tung Lo Wan Road is renowned for its packed ramen bowls. Pumpernickel (+852 2578 0854) on Lau Li Street has tasty baked goods. For a light dim-sum brunch, there’s Lei Bistro in Times Square (+852 2506 3022) or the Dining Room in Causeway Bay (+852 2648 2299).
Hong Kong’s neon lights and non-stop activity make it feel like a night club that’s spilled out onto the streets; its bars live up to this promise – some bring the city’s bygone glamour up to date, and some tap into the city’s artsy undercurrent. In Wan Chai, the Optimist (+852 2433 3324) has bold geometric patterns and moody lighting – the negronis and wine list are both excellent; Ophelia (+852 2520 1117) is unashamedly decadent, with peacock-feather motifs and a cage for aerial performers. Hit Blue Butcher (+852 2613 9286) on Hollywood Road for curious savoury cocktails (the Pork Chop & Apple Sauce with bacon-washed Scotch and apple jam), then continue the night at graffiti-flecked Bibo Bar (+852 2956 3188), where there’s a mysterious library where the book spines face inwards. Before you head home, sip a signature, rubber duckie accessorised, bath tub cocktail at Ori-Gin Bar (+852 2668 5583) on Wyndham Street.