What did you expect a hotel from the land of pericón-fluttering, skirt-swishing, castanet-chattering dances to be like? Beige? ¡Dios mío! In Seville's Triana House Boutique Hotel, designer Amaro Sánchez de Moya grabs you round the waist and twirls you through Andalusia in seven rooms with distinctive styles from all over – olive-tree wallpaper for grove-dotted Jaén, embossed gold-and-green leather walls for Córdoba, beach-hut stripes for coastal Huelva and the Alhambra-style azulejo tiles pretty much everywhere. Terracotta statues and busts watch over the serene courtyard and terrace, but otherwise this is velvets, brights, gold and more, more, more… Much like a flamenco, this less-is-’meh’ casa will leave you thrillingly dizzy.
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Breakfast throughout your stay and a welcome drink
Noon, but flexible, subject to availability and a charge. Earliest check-in, 3pm. Reception is open from 8am to 11pm; let staff know your arrival time in advance where possible and they can help accommodate you if it’s outside of these times.
Double rooms from £93.59 (€109), including tax at 10 per cent.
Rates don't include breakfast (€20 a person), but you do get an in-room welcome gift of red wine and cheese.
There’s one room for guests with mobility issues (and a lift) with an alarm in the bathroom.
A breakfast room and honesty bar are being planned for the ground floor.
At the hotel
Roof terrace, courtyard, lounge, concierge, charged washing and ironing service, free WiFi. In rooms: smart LED TV, Nespresso coffee machine, kettle and tea, free minibar and bottled water, climate control, bathrobes and slippers, and Penhaligon’s bath products.
Our favourite rooms
There are seven different loud personalities at Triana House Boutique Hotel, each vying for your attention, with every room named and styled after a different Andalusian region or town and displaying its characteristic handicrafts and signifiers. Say, Jaén, whose green tones and olive-tree-emblazoned wallpaper nods to its groves and oil production; Huelva’s stripes echoing those on its beaches’ huts; Alhambra with its lavish tiling; Sevilla with flowering vases and local landmarks painted on the walls by a native artist; Córdoba with its green-and-gold embossed-cordovan-leather panels. And, designer Amaro Sánchez de Moya has created custom furnishings and thrown velvets, gold-leaf and chevron tiles of Marquina and Carrara marbles into the maximalist and Moorish mix. Each is an Alcázar in miniature, but the top-floor suite wins our affections for its private terrace, complete with an azulejo-graced fountain and views of the Church of Santa Ana’s decorated spire.
There’s no spa at Triana House, but the hotel has partnered with Aire Ancient Baths, a leisurely 20-minute walk away across the Alfonso XIII. Here you can enjoy soothing soaks in a Mudéjar-style palace and various styles of massage.
Bring shades – the room’s strobing chevrons and combative,yet somehow chic, patterns are eye-searingly spectacular. And pack a couple layers of soft clothing between which you can safely transport azulejo tiles and Triana ceramics home.
The hotel has a signature scent, so when you catch a whiff of jasmine, orange blossom or tuberose back home, you’ll be transported right back.
Bullish toddlers, fine Andalusian china – we know how this story ends… In truth, kids can stay, but there’s no dedicated entertainment or facilities for them, and they must be accompanied by an adult.
Triana House Boutique Hotel has the distinction of being the first Passivhaus-certified hotel in Andalusia, proof of its energy-efficient prowess. Not only that, but the building’s been tested for its airtight-ness, and the air that does get in is cleaned through a particulate filter and mechanical ventilation system. Water’s heated with solar panels and devices are fitted in bathrooms and the hotel fountains to conserve it, aerothermal systems save energy, CO2 equivalent to planting 3,000 trees is saved annually, sensor-activated LED lighting is used, plastics are cut back on, recycling is carried out and local products are served at breakfast.
If you’re staying in the terrace suite then go breakfast under the Sevillian sun. Otherwise, all cosied up in bed.
Bring some Andalusian tiling to your styling, with riotous florals and prismatic pattern.
The hotel mostly serves breakfast, but it’s the sort you might give your better half on a special birthday – except better because it’s a wicker tray laden with delightfully florid crockery and Sevillian delicacies. A basket heaves with artisanal breads, juice is freshly squeezed and coffee rich, cakes come from a bakery down the road, fruit is seasonal and there’s a plate of Ibérican ham with crushed tomato (cooked dishes can be made-to-order on request). Otherwise, light room-service meals (sandwiches, burgers, home-made desserts, plus veggie and gluten-free options) are available for lunch and dinner; but, we recommend using this as an opportunity to take a small-plate taste test of Triana’s pinchos.
The alcoholic drinks in your minibar are free, so you won’t want for a bar, but there are plenty in the neighbourhood if you want a more sociable drinking setting.
Breakfast is served from 8.30am.
Snacks and light meals are available from noon to 11.30pm, including the likes of tuna tartare, pork cheek in sweet wine, cold tomato soup with quail egg and ibérican ham and grilled salmon.
Set in a late-18th-century residence, Triana House Boutique Hotel is in canalside barrio-of-rainbow-brights Triana, famed for its skilled ceramicists, a short walk from Seville’s star sights.
Seville Airport is just a 30-minute drive from the hotel. The hotel can arrange transfers on request from €35 one-way.
Seville Santa Justa station is a 20-minute drive from the hotel; it has a direct route to Madrid, from which you can connect to major cities on Spain’s east coast. Transfers can be booked from €25 each way. For zipping about the city, the Plaza de Cuba Metro station is about a five-minute walk away; one stop will take you to Puerta Jerez, where the big-deal sightseeing is to be had.
Driving in Seville isn’t as straightforward a concept as it might seem – reaching central locations can be hard and citizens are more used to the frenetic pace of traffic here. But, it does make a good stop for a Spanish road trip, so if you need to park up some wheels, you can leave them at Parking Los Remedios a short walk away (for a charge), or they may be spaces on the street.
Worth getting out of bed for
Triana has carved out its own space in Seville – even when locals cross the Isabel II Bridge from the city centre to reach it they say they’re going to the neighbourhood as if travelling out of town. Indeed, it has its own unique features, especially the mostly blue-and-white (but in all hues under the Sevillan sun) azulejo tiles, which it’s famous for (Triana House Boutique Hotel itself was once a pottery school), a rainbow of buildings on Betis Street along the bank of the Guadalquivir River, doorways wafting out mournful song and live flamenco shows. Use the Church of Santa Ana’s gloriously tiled bell tower as ballast while navigating, and stop in to admire its Midas-touched altarpiece; and if you’ve brought a baby, allegedly having it baptised here will give it a fabulous singing voice for flamenco. If not, see the blessed professionals perform at the Triana Flamenco Theatre, where talents taught at the renowned Cristina Heeren Foundation do their flouncing and fanning thing five nights a week. And the Triana Ceramics Centre shows off its other proud tradition, delving into the history of the handicraft. There are plenty of china shops for you to rampage around afterwards, but if you like those at the hotel, you’ll need to travel a little further out to Salteras for La Cartuja Sevilla’s wares (or buy them online). The barrio has a long history too, which can be seen along San Jacinto Street, where there’s a decorous Dominican Order church from the 17th century; the Plaza del Altozano, home to the 1912 Murillo Pharmacy, important statuary and the eye-catchingly domed Carmen Chapel; and Pureza Street where the Virgen de la Esperanza resides in the Marineros Chapel – each Maundy Thursday she’s paraded through the streets to Seville Cathedral. Stroll along the riverside’s Our Lady of the O walk and you’ll come across the Castillo de San Jorge, which looks harmless enough now, but was the seat of the Spanish inquisition from the 15th to 18th centuries – we bet you didn’t expect that. The castle is now ruined but there’s a museum in its place and you can still see the dungeons. Revel in the sensory overload at the Mercado de Triana, which also has a cookery school and even a theatre; and cross over San Telmo bridge to wander Seville’s Old Town and the Barrio de Santa Cruz, and marvel at the Alcázar Palace and its La Giralda bell tower.
Whether you’re joining the Callejeros (street people) who spill out from pincho hotspots, or you’re on a sharing-at-your-own-discretion date night, Seville will feed you very well. It’s surrounded by fertile agricultural regions and its historic position as a trade route means excellent ingredients used in diverse ways. Canalside Mariatrifulca has terrace tables with romantic city views; alongside more traditional small plates like crystal bread topped with anchovies, piquillo peppers and salmorejo (a thick tomato and garlic soup); chopped seafood with fresh-tomato salad; and chargrilled octopus in sherry, there’s nigiri with quail egg and truffle, and caramelised brioche French toast with tiramisu cream. On picturesque Betis Street is Abades Triana, which has palate-piquers such as gazpacho with apricot ice-cream; croaker with cod-cheek pil-pil and Iberian bacon; and Retinta sirloin cooked in hazelnut liqueur. And, for comforting chicken-liver pâté with pumpkin and lemon jam, mushroom and egg rice with boletus foam, and rice and cod ‘cupcakes’ rolled in brown bread, roll up to De la O.
There are thousands of pinchos eateries to try in the city, but luckily most morsels consist of just a bite or two, so you can fit in a fair few. Prepare to have little table space at pincho joint Blanca Paloma (on Calle San Jacinto), so full will it be with tasty morsels: prawns in aubergine, Pedro Ximénez-marinated sirloin with foie gras, goat’s-cheese-and-piquillo-stuffed sea-bass… Over the canal on Calle Gamazo, Casa Moreno is a deli as stuffed as one of its anchovy tins with canned fish, sausages near neon with paprika, wine bottles, jamón legs, sauce jars and more – it may look like there’s little room for anything else, but you can take tapas and cheese and charcuterie to the table to the back. La Brunilda has more wiggle room and moreish salt-cod fritters with pear aioli, duck confit with spiced-carrot cream and daily-changing croquettes.
When you’re seeking a slug of Manzanilla or Oloroso, head to industrial-style hotspot Martirio Bar, close to Triana House, which also does a fine line in classic cocktails, alongside a long list of top Spanish wines. And, for an eyeful of La Giralda in all its Moorish majesty, head to rooftop bar La Terraza (at Hotel Doña María).
Every hotel featured is visited personally by members of our team, given the Smith seal of approval, and then anonymously reviewed. As soon as our reviewers have returned from this pattern-party pad in Seville and unpacked their intricately painted tiles and tableware and meaty jamonería haul, a full account of their pincho-feasting and flamenco break will be with you. In the meantime, to whet your wanderlust, here's a quick peek inside Triana House Boutique Hotel in Spain…
Seville’s Triana House Boutique Hotel pulls no style punches – from the get-go you’re in a flamenco-red lobby with black-and-white chevron floors, and Amaro Sánchez de Moya’s design only gets more flamboyant: a lounge walled with intricate azulejo tiles, kaleidoscopic mashrabiya screens, velvets, pattern, a scalloped fireplace, floors made of two kinds of marble… You might need to lie down. But rooms are a riot of colour, pattern and opulent materials too, each of the seven nodding to a different part of Andalusia and celebrating the region’s fine craftsmanship, from Triana’s ceramics to Córdoba’s leatherwork to Jaén’s olive-oil production. It’s a dazzling reflection of this vibrant, colourful city, set close to the Old Town, but in a neighbourhood with a distinctive feel, which you can admire from the hotel roof terrace with its trickling fountain and painted statuary. After time spent downing manzanilla, picking at pinchos and chatting the night away with Callejeros, you’ll fall into the hotel’s lively zapateado-punctuated rhythm with a hearty ¡olé!