San Francisco Proper

I’ve never liked San Francisco.

Perhaps it has to do with that hangover from hell after a day trip to Sonoma. Or maybe another vacation ruined by the inevitable June Gloom. Whatever it was, I arrived to the City by the Bay slightly skeptical. I was here for a birthday party and came a few days early to see if I could figure out what everyone gushed about. Because, don’t get me wrong, I want to like San Francisco…

To give the city the best chance possible, I changed up my usual hotel stay. You know how they say that a change of scenery is a good thing? Well, I cancelled my Mission District Airbnb and opted for the brand spankin’ new Proper hotel in the Tenderloin. Like a beacon in a changing neighborhood, the bright and bold Proper sits triumphantly at the intersection of two diagonal streets. It’s a definite change from the usual manicured city hotel and I loved the unexpected and authentic energy it framed.

What caught my attention immediately was how the vibe of the lobby smacks you in the face immediately. It’s cavernous but cozy. It’s daring but soft. Your eyes dart around madly to all the textures and patterns and color. But it doesn’t feel like design for design’s sake, it feels purposeful. It’s inspiring.

Outside, the energy of the district is fast-paced and visceral. Inside, the vibe stays the same. When I checked in, the lobby was bustling. There were a cast of characters tucked into every possible seating arrangement. The height of the main floor gives it a grand feel and the smoked glass windows let in the most romantic haze from outside. And considering the unpredictable San Francisco weather, that soft screen washed the lobby with the most beautiful quality in a beautiful dance of light. The whole set-up feels like it’s prime for a Poirot plot.

I went upstairs immediately – upon literally everyone’s suggestion – to see Charmaine’s. It’s a very proud rooftop bar with captivating views and yet another beautifully appointed interior (Kelly Wearstler take a bow).

In fact, each public space was designed with such care. The gold and purple hues of Gilda’s private dining room beg you to think of an excuse to gather there. And playful patterns of wallpaper in the bedroom make you want to dress to the nines to paint the town red. (My favorite part of the room? The most stylish bathrobe I’ve ever seen while traveling.)

I took an early morning walk after a late night out. I love watching a city wake up. The buckets of water tossed from the colorful storefronts in Chinatown. A man on the wharf throws bits of his croissant to the birds by the pier. The Golden Gate bridge glitters afar.

Back at the hotel, I found a corner booth at Villon on the first floor and sat back to take in a leisurely breakfast. The baby blue color on the walls? The ruffled chandeliers? Perfectly indulgent buttered toast? I was in heaven. The sun poured in on my table. The soundtrack was all Neil Young and Steely Dan. I sat like a cat, held prisoner by the sun’s rays, excited to nestle in and burst outside again to explore.

Note to self: I think I’m Properly in love with San Francisco.