PURS Luxury Boutique Hotel

Worth getting out of bed for

They call Andernach ‘the edible city’, which you might imagine to be a reference to its upturned ice-cream cone turrets, mediaeval buildings and wedding-cake confections such as the majestic four-towered Mariendom. But you’d be quite wrong. In fact, Andernach’s nickname comes from the edible bounty grown in its streets: herbs tended in beds in the pedestrianised centre, and tomatoes, courgettes, strawberries and oranges planted around the castle moat. In the Historical Garden, excavated Roman columns and fountains are punctuated by vegetable patches and rows of ancient medicinal herbs. All of these are free for you to harvest as you stroll. It’s an admirable Andernach initiative that effortlessly combines two of the planet’s most satisfying pursuits: snacking and sightseeing. 

With nearly 1,000 years of history under its belt, the Marienbad is one of the Rhineland’s most important cathedrals. Gaze in awe at its tetrad of Romanesque towers as you munch absentmindedly on a sprig of mint, then ascend the winding stone steps of the nearby Round Tower – 180 feet of 15th-century stronghold, and Andernach’s emblem. Foot-weary climbers who make it all the way up to the battlements are rewarded with far-reaching views across the Rhine to the gently undulating green hills beyond. Boating day trips along the river, passing fairytale castles and verdant vineyards along the way, are also available from Andernach.

The 45-minute drive to the tiny Ahr Valley wine region north of Andernach is an experience in itself, all forested hills and sweeping Rhine views. Avoid designated driver’s regret by joining a scheduled tour to the celebrated Weingut Deutzerhof winery, where one glass of the signature pinot noir is just never going to be enough.

Local restaurants

Hotel am Ochsentor, the sister hotel of Purs, is a mere hop and skip through Andernach’s atmospheric cobbled streets and offers a duo of strong dining options. First up, Ai Pero is an upmarket take on the traditional Italian trattoria, serving up wafer-thin, ultra-crispy wood-fired pizza straight from the oven alongside comforting pasta classics and a signature veal and parma ham saltimbocca with rosemary potatoes and caponata. 

You might not expect Japanese, Nordic and French cuisines to make suitable bedfellows, but Yoso aims to demonstrate otherwise. Make up your own mind with a delectable selection of fusion dishes that include parmesan chawanmushi (steamed egg custard) with lobster and fennel; wild mushroom dumplings with beurre blanc, walnuts and salted lemon, and a signature sea bass dish with fermented mirabelle plum and umami fish stock.

Local bars

Its name may feel like something of a misnomer for a fourth-floor lounge, but step inside the Einstein Hotel’s Skybar and all preconceptions fly straight out the (panoramic) window. It’s like you’re sitting on a cloud as you sip your Ahr Valley rosé, chilled Rheingau riesling or punchy Palatinate cab sauv. Einstein himself would no doubt have a theory about why, after that second and third glass, your eyes become mistier and those widescreen Rhine views ever more swoonsome.

Subtlety is not something with which funky La Nuit is acquainted. It comes with glowing neon signs (‘all you need is love and mojitos’, apparently), explosions of artificial pink flowers, and a truly wild range of cocktails and desserts. Lean in to the colourful ‘cocktail and candybar’ concept by getting seriously involved in the marshmallow-and-chocolate fondue, heart-stopping Caramel King milkshake and vodka-laced Ice Cream Cone bubble cocktail.