Palazzo Rainis

As a teenager, I went on a family holiday to Split and sailed around the southern Croatian islands, stopping off for lurid-coloured, fish-bowl ‘cocktails’ with my sister along the way. So,on my way to Palazzo Rainis in Novigrad, I was pleased to have the opportunity to head back and explore in a (hopefully) more sophisticated fashion this time around. Back then, I hadn’t realised the full length of which Croatia stretches along the Adriatic Sea, and how far north it goes, bordering Slovenia and only an hour drive from Italy.

Mr Smith had been working for a few months over the summer in north-east Italy. Leaving Trieste after my partner’s work had finished, we hit a dramatic thunderstorm en route which delayed our arrival until after dark. A quick dash inside to get out of the rain and we soon realised we’d missed the hotel reception entrance, instead bundling straight into the restaurant, disrupting the diners. Wet and a little embarrassed, we were ushered kindly through to reception by the waiter on duty.

It’s clear that one of the elements which makes Palazzo Rainis so special is the staff. Kind, warm, and genuine, they strived to make our stay exceptional. A complimentary glass of fizz, a room upgrade, and a detailed itinerary for our weekend – we felt warmly welcomed.

We were shown to our room, the deluxe suite, in the main house of the hotel which is an original 19th-century villa, once owned by a Venetian pharmacist. With its sleek lines and subtle detailing, this new extension perfectly complements the existing Italian-style villa.

The suite, with living room and bedroom divided by double doors, oozes old-school glamour. Rich colours and fabrics, elegantly high ceilings, cool marble in the bathroom, parquet flooring throughout, and not one but two ornate balconies overlooking the harbour – all we needed now to fit in with the decor was a dry martini. A quick spritz in the marbled bathroom and back downstairs for dinner and drinks at the hotel restaurant Chemistry.

Dinner was an indulgent affair. Istria is a diverse culinary area thanks to its incredibly fertile land. It’s renowned for its white truffle, wines, olive oil, and meats. All of which we sampled that evening in abundance, with a little added extra twist from the chefs to make the dishes truly unique. A final nightcap and we had, well, over-indulged. It was time to retreat back upstairs.

The following morning, although the rain had finally stopped it was still overcast. So after a coffee on our balcony, we had a slow and leisurely breakfast inside. Plates full of Istrian cured hams, eggs, and bread, with plenty of strong coffee – the perfect way to wile away a morning before heading into Novigrad.

The port town of Novigrad is a short walk from the hotel. It’s a picturesque and laid-back fishing town, with colourful houses, lively cafes, and lots of bustle around its charming harbour and within its old city walls. We spent the day exploring the narrow streets, stopping for ice creams, coffees and aperitivos; embracing the slow pace of life while eyeing up potential dinner spots – there are plenty to choose from.

Another evening devouring hearty food and delicious wines and my idea of a perfect weekend had been achieved. The only thing missing was the sunshine. But, right on cue, on Sunday morning out came the sun.

We made a beeline for the pool in our most debonair outfits. Much like the interiors at Palazzo Rainis, this is one stylish pool. Sun loungers with neatly rolled yellow towels line the turquoise pool, which is surrounded by aesthetically pleasing symmetrical planting. Friendly gardeners tended to the grounds while we were there and attentive staff cater to our every poolside need.

Sipping some (more) Croatian wine, we overlooked the graceful sailing boats in the harbour. We imagined it was our yacht we’d just moored up in front of our palatial Italian villa, dreaming of a long hot summer of food, wine and sunshine ahead. This might be a newly discovered part of Europe for Mr Smith and I, but it is one we could certainly get used to. And at the centre of it was Palazzo Rainis, making its bid as the very definition of a fine boutique hotel.