Puglia, Italy

Masseria Fumarola

Rates from (ex tax)$97.29

Price information

If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 21 days.

Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (EUR100.00), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.

Style

Trullo to its roots

Setting

Puglian-postcard scenery

A rural retreat in Puglia, Masseria Fumarola is boutique hotel bliss: lounge by the peaceful pool and sleep in rooms that used to house wine-making facilities at this sun-soaked farm. Design details have the edge of both history and luxury – there’s the vintage oven and arched stone doorways along with Jacuzzi tubs and a creative chef whose delectable creations might make you second-guess that teeny bikini.

Smith Extra

Get this when you book through us:

A bottle of local wine

Facilities

Photos Masseria Fumarola facilities

Need to know

Rooms

14, including eight suites.

Check–Out

11am. Earliest check-in, 1pm.

Rates

Double rooms from $97.29 (€91), excluding tax at 10 per cent.

Price information

If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 21 days.

Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (EUR100.00), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.

More details

Rates usually include buffet breakfast.

Also

Go for an early morning jog or lazy afternoon wander in the hotel’s six-hectare woodlands.

Hotel closed

1 November 2015 to 22 April 2016.

At the hotel

Gardens and library. In rooms: flatscreen TV, minibar and bathrooms stocked with local products.

Our favourite rooms

If trulli take your fancy, book Massaro Vechio, which spans three colourful, cone-shaped rooms (a bedroom, bathroom and lounge). Highlights include the romantic wrought-iron bed and the sitting room’s minimalist, log fireplace. Palmento Due has a circular, sunken sleeping area and a stylish living room overlooking the bed. A stash of decorative wine bottles set under glass panels in the stone tiling hint at the room’s history – grapes for the farmhouse wine were once stored here. The bathroom even has an unexpected Jacuzzi tub up its sleeve.

Poolside

The outdoor pool is partially hidden by a stone wall and encircled by chestnut and olive trees, with a scattering of white canvas deck chairs and tangerine sun loungers.

Packing tips

Bring high-strength sunglasses for the dazzling play of light on the whitewashed buildings; chic attire to match the glamorous locals enjoying la passeggiata (the evening stroll) in Martina Franca; a notebook to jot down some of the chef’s favoured wines and recipes.

Children

Very little Smiths are welcome; cots for babies are €10 a night. Older children aren’t really catered for.

Food and Drink

Photos Masseria Fumarola food and drink

Top Table

Sit by the window to optimise the sunshine, or outside by the swimming pool to optimise your tan.

Dress Code

Relaxed as you like, with linens and silks to keep you cool outside.

Hotel restaurant

 Forget toast and cereal, breakfast is a mouthwatering spread of fresh fruit, cold cuts and pastries (try the pine nut and mascarpone tart). 

Hotel bar

There’s a snug little bar area inside, but the best way to experience aperitivo o’clock is outside by the pool. 

Last orders

Breakfast is served between 8.30am and 10.30am.

Room service

In-room treats are limited to breakfast and aperitivo.

Location

Photos Masseria Fumarola location
Address
Masseria Fumarola
Via Villa Castelli 104
74015
Martina Franca
Italy

Planes

Bari Palese airport is 80km away, served by Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) and British Airways (www.britishairways.com); Brindisi Papola Casale airport is 65km from the hotel – fly with Ryanair, Delta (www.delta.com), or EasyJet (www.easyjet.com).

Trains

Get to Bari or Taranto railway, than take a Ferrovie del Sud-Est (FSE) train to Martina Franca (www.fseonline.it).

Automobiles

Alberelo, Locorotondo, Cisternino and Ostuni are an easy drive away; the hotel has plenty of free parking.

Worth getting out of bed for

Notch up some lengths in the outdoor pool, and explore the hotel’s woodlands. Sit out in your own mini garden, with a couple of books and a bottle of wine, or be more sociable, and enjoy drinks at the bar or beside the fire. Martina Franca, a fairytale, whitewashed town, is just 4km away. Locorotondo is another trulli-graced town nearby, worth exploring for its rich wine heritage and local history. The dramatic, hillside town of Ostuni is 45 minutes away, and perfect for a day trip.

Local restaurants

Bina (+39 (0)8 04 31 17 84) at 44–50 via Dottor Recchia, Locorotondo, has a menu brimming with local specialities, including purea di fave (bean purée with sautéed chicory). Piazzetta Garibaldi is an understated osteria at 17–18 piazza Garibaldi that offers honest, home-style cooking, and a selection of local wines. It’s worth booking at Trattoria le Ruote (+39 (0)8 04 83 74 73) at 52 Contrada Primicerio in Martina Franca – especially at lunchtime, when the reasonably priced, flavoursome dishes lure in a loyal crowd.

Reviews

Photos Masseria Fumarola reviews

Anonymous review

As we zip up the mountain roads towards Martina Franca, Mr Smith is growing increasingly enthused about Puglia’s architecture looking, as he so eloquently puts it, ‘like boobs’. The hills are dotted with trulli, buildings clustered in small mounds with nipple-like peaks. To me they seem quite exotic, Moorish almost, compared to the Italian buildings I’ve seen before. Naturally, Mr Smith is pretty excited that we will be sleeping in one of these fertile-looking huts together.

The sun is dipping away as we approach the hotel from a winding country road, overlooked by the plump silhouettes of hundreds of trulli. Occasionally we slow down to check if any of these rustic piles are worthy of the ‘boutique’ label. But each weather-beaten hut looks much like the last. When we eventually pull into our destination we feel quite silly for supposing the entrance to our masseria would in any way have resembled those for the vineyards we have been passing. The gate to our hotel is mammoth, and it is no less than thrilling when it starts to roll open to reveal the twinkling lights of Masseria Fumarola.

Arriving here at dusk is magical. The hotel consists of huddles of small, immaculately painted white trulli and canopied seating areas, connected by tree-lined gravel paths that are lit by hundreds of tiny lanterns. These peasant-built dwellings have been transformed into a maze of mini luxury hideaways. This, in my opinion, is the best type of boutique hotel: a modest local building that is developed in a way that is both unique and sensitive to its original charm.

Now, I am one of those people who gets overly excited about great bathrooms. So I can’t help but let out a sound that betrays how thrilled I am when I see that we have a two-person Jacuzzi. A remote control that opens a skylight right above it – in the very nipple of our rooftop – elicits another squeal. The idea of various small domes in the garden letting out steam into the night sky like so many little teapots tickles me. Mr Smith? He couldn’t care less. He is already cruising the Italian MTV options on a flatscreen in the very same colour as the stone walls; it’s at the end of a bed sitting inside a grape-crushing well.
I am, perhaps worryingly, not ashamed to say that – like proper Brits abroad – our focus while we’re away is on:
a) catching the sun; b) eating to our absolute maximum capacity; and c) drinking as much local wine as possible. We exceed even our own expectations at all three and we are soon burnt, bloated and very content.

Having told Mr Smith in plain words that we would be spending our first afternoon by the pool, amid a sea of white loungers across two levels of decking, we agree to dilute my pleasure-seeking mania with a morning exploring Martina Franca. The streets of the old town are beautiful, cobbled and labyrinthine, but getting lost is sweetened by fresh hazelnut gelato, and several macchiato pit stops. As we cross the piazzas, I notice that my bare British limbs are causing a few raised eyebrows. We then notice that the inhabitants of the town are wearing furs, hats and scarves. Spot the Londoner keen to worship the spring sun in Italy.

Italian culture has a holy trinity: food, family and fashion. Masseria Fumarola sings a song of praise to all three. The relaxed dining room is the setting for culinary magic – al dente orecchiette cloaked in seasonal sauces; toothsome grilled meat; delicate cakes and pastries. And you’ll never be able to look at beer and peanuts in the same way after sampling the hotel’s antipasti: hunks of creamy local cheeses paired with slivers of salty salami. A favourite meal out for us is at family-run Ristorante Sagitarrio, where we feast on regional specialities having fought the locals to bag a table on Saturday night. There are pictures of the owner all over the wall, and I am naff enough to mention his resemblance to Tony Soprano. (This is after a €2 litre of Pugliese wine.)

Masseria Fumarola works so well because it makes the most of what Puglia has to offer. Waking up to a jug of fresh blood-orange juice, cappuccino and local breads, and spending our days surrounded by green woodlands dotted with white huts is a delight. Everything is easy and simple – the hotel, its proximity to the town, even the short drive to the airport. We leave feeling we have had a real holiday rather than just a quick break.
At Masseria Fumarola, there’s not a stand-out feature to shout about as such – more a plethora of tiny perfections, every one low-key and intimate. Since returning home, Mr Smith and I have both recommended the hotel to many a friend – each time with an air of smugness. For some reason, the place left us with the feeling that we had personally discovered it – not exactly the truth. But as someone who sat in the sun by that seductive garden pool, listening to bird chatter as attentive staff brought over freshly made ricotta cheesecake, I feel justified in claiming it as our very special secret…

Reviewed by Quentin Jones, illustrator

The Guestbook

Whenever you book a stay at a Smith Hotel with us, we’ll invite you to review it when you get back. Read what other Smith members had to say in Masseria Fumarola’s Guestbook below.

We loved

The staff who looked after us very well; lovely suroundings; very cosy atmosphere – but be aware, it's not for children. Be sure to visit Martina Franca.

Rating

Stayed on 30 Sep 2016

We loved

The cocooning feeling of being shut off from the world once the drive gates roll shut. Nothing is too much bother here and it's difficult to consider leaving the pool unless the weather threatens cloud coverage. Pre-breakfast swims and watching the cactus fruit being gathered for breakfast; a glut of fresh figs straight from the trees for lunch on our last day; the Trulli pigsty and courtyard for a break from the sun. All the staff are so friendly. Recommend Masseria Il Frantoio, about 24kms from Martina Franca. There's a tour and background on the region at 8pm (worth doing) with an 8-course dinner sitting at 8:30pm. The food is exceptional, but be warned! This is a true Italian feast so be prepared to push past midnight. Food is 100 per cent organic and 80 per cent is grown on the grounds.

Don’t expect

To get away without being bitten during sundowners - come prepared!

Rating

Stayed on 5 Sep 2016

We loved

Lovely location. Beautifully furnished and maintained. Very friendly staff. Excellent breakfast.

Don’t expect

Dinner not so exciting. Starters good but meat dishes a little on the heavy side and no fish.

Rating

Stayed on 28 Aug 2016

We loved

Pool, service, views, peace and quiet.

Don’t expect

Extensive menus

Rating

Stayed on 24 Aug 2016

We loved

Our rooms; really good-sized swimming pool; totally peaceful setting yet a short drive into Martina Franca; Puglia, especially Martina Franca, Locorotundo and gorgeous Lecce.

Don’t expect

If you want to avoid high tourism don't spend long in Alberollo. 

Rating

Stayed on 31 Jul 2016

We loved

The whole place! We were saved by Mr & Mrs Smith and this gorgeous place when our plans changed at the last minute. It is an oasis of calm, spotlessly clean and Mary, Daniel and the staff could not do enough for us. It shines like a beacon amongst some of the other accommodation in the area! Swimming pool looked stunning - although the weather meant we were unable to try it! If you are interested in ceramics (not just the trad italien style!) go to grottiglie for an interesting morning! 10/10

Don’t expect

The food is fine....but not a gourmet experience.

Rating

Stayed on 15 May 2016

We loved

The farm and woodland walk, our room (a junior suite) and the warm welcome from staff. The food was good, not exceptional. The pool area is very nice, just too cold to swim the day we were there. Marina Franca is a lovely untouristy old town. 9/10

Don’t expect

Not much. Perhaps more menu choice. The dining room was quite hushed - perhaps not a comfortable atmosphere for a family with children.

Rating

Stayed on 13 May 2016

We loved

Beautiful, beautiful location. Martina Franka close by and great for coffees, ice cream and dining.

Don’t expect

To do anything but relax

Rating

Stayed on 8 May 2016

We loved

A traditional stone Trulli style hotel set on farmland. The suite was spacious, with a separate lounge area with fireplace, large bedroom and large modern shower room. The staff were all very friendly and helpful. A wonderful place to relax. Martina Franca is close by with plenty of lovely restaurants, with Cisternino, Alberobello and Ostuni all worth a visit.

Don’t expect

Lively nights!

Rating

Stayed on 2 May 2016

We loved

The room was excellent, views were amazing and the swimming pool was wonderful. The beaches of Ostuni are only 30 mins drive. 8/10

Don’t expect

A top class restaurant. The food seemed mediocre to me.

Rating

Stayed on 14 Apr 2016

We loved

The rooms and the communal areas; very stylish and thought through. We drove to small local towns for walks in the daytime and lunches.

Don’t expect

Lively evenings! It's very chilled out and relaxing.

Rating

Stayed on 18 Oct 2015

We loved

Everything was very cool and serene. It is brilliant, calm and relaxed - and the nearby town gives you the night life if you need it. Would recommend going to Leche for the day. 

Rating

Stayed on 7 Oct 2015

We loved

Virtually everything. The service was outstanding: It's a family-owned hotel, very warm friendly. Everybody went out of their to help us, even with some pretty special requests. Our (L suite) was a lovely "trullo": a perfect combination of functionality, authenticity, and luxury. Food was delicious - you should stay in at least one evening and try the chef's variations on the local classics.

Don’t expect

To find Masseria Fumarola right away with your car - even or especially when using a nav sat.

Rating

Stayed on 27 Aug 2015

We loved

The trulli rooms. Lovely peaceful atmosphere.

Don’t expect

Parties in the evenings.

Rating

Stayed on 25 Jul 2015

We loved

The personal approach of the owners, the design, the landscape and the space. Very beautiful environment, lovely ambiance and good food. Delicious cakes at breakfast.

Don’t expect

Comfortable beds.

Rating

Stayed on 17 Jul 2015

We loved

Being looked after by the family and team. Nothing was too much trouble and great fun. Amazing, beautiful property surrounded by own vineyards and the food was great, high quality, local, fresh and seasonal. Local red wine and the family's prosecco is fantastic.

Don’t expect

Few taxis operate in this area. Not really a problem but just good to know.

Rating

Stayed on 16 Jul 2015

We loved

The tranquility.

Don’t expect

Entertainment or lively activities.

Rating

Stayed on 25 Jun 2015