Puglia, Italy

Masseria Fumarola

Rates per night from$103.75

Price information

If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 60 days.

Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (EUR90.00), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.

Style

Trullo to its roots

Setting

Puglian-postcard scenery

A rural retreat in Puglia, Masseria Fumarola is boutique hotel bliss: lounge by the peaceful pool and sleep in rooms that used to house wine-making facilities at this sun-soaked farm. Design details have the edge of both history and luxury – there’s the vintage oven and arched stone doorways along with Jacuzzi tubs and a creative chef whose delectable creations might make you second-guess that teeny bikini.

Smith Extra

Get this when you book through us:

A bottle of local wine

Facilities

Photos Masseria Fumarola facilities

Need to know

Rooms

14, including eight suites.

Check–Out

11am. Earliest check-in, 1pm.

Rates

Double rooms from $103.75 (€90), excluding tax at 10 per cent.

More details

Rates usually include buffet breakfast.

Also

Go for an early morning jog or lazy afternoon wander in the hotel’s six-hectare woodlands.

Hotel closed

1 November 2015 to 22 April 2016.

At the hotel

Gardens and library. In rooms: flatscreen TV, minibar and bathrooms stocked with local products.

Our favourite rooms

If trulli take your fancy, book Massaro Vechio, which spans three colourful, cone-shaped rooms (a bedroom, bathroom and lounge). Highlights include the romantic wrought-iron bed and the sitting room’s minimalist, log fireplace. Palmento Due has a circular, sunken sleeping area and a stylish living room overlooking the bed. A stash of decorative wine bottles set under glass panels in the stone tiling hint at the room’s history – grapes for the farmhouse wine were once stored here. The bathroom even has an unexpected Jacuzzi tub up its sleeve.

Poolside

The outdoor pool is partially hidden by a stone wall and encircled by chestnut and olive trees, with a scattering of white canvas deck chairs and tangerine sun loungers.

Packing tips

Bring high-strength sunglasses for the dazzling play of light on the whitewashed buildings; chic attire to match the glamorous locals enjoying la passeggiata (the evening stroll) in Martina Franca; a notebook to jot down some of the chef’s favoured wines and recipes.

Children

Very little Smiths are welcome; cots for babies are €10 a night and an extra bed can be added to some rooms for a person, a night. Older children aren’t really catered for.

Food and Drink

Photos Masseria Fumarola food and drink

Top Table

Sit by the window to optimise the sunshine, or outside by the swimming pool to optimise your tan.

Dress Code

Relaxed as you like, with linens and silks to keep you cool outside.

Hotel restaurant

Forget toast and cereal, breakfast is a mouthwatering spread of fresh fruit, cold cuts and pastries (try the pine nut and mascarpone tart). Enjoy a light lunch by the pool with salads, mozzarella, and others local products. There's a buffet dinner two nights a week (the specific days change weekly); on the nights that the hotel doesn't offer dinner, you can enjoy drinks and apéritifs by the pool before heading into town for your evening meal. 

Hotel bar

There’s a snug little bar area inside, but the best way to experience aperitivo o’clock is outside by the pool. 

Last orders

Breakfast is served between 8.30am and 10.30am.

Room service

In-room treats are limited to breakfast and aperitivo.

Location

Photos Masseria Fumarola location
Address
Masseria Fumarola
Via Villa Castelli 104
Martina Franca
74015
Italy

Planes

Bari Palese airport is 80km away, served by Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) and British Airways (www.britishairways.com); Brindisi Papola Casale airport is 65km from the hotel – fly with Ryanair, Delta (www.delta.com), or EasyJet (www.easyjet.com).

Trains

Get to Bari or Taranto railway, than take a Ferrovie del Sud-Est (FSE) train to Martina Franca (www.fseonline.it).

Automobiles

Alberelo, Locorotondo, Cisternino and Ostuni are an easy drive away; the hotel has plenty of free parking.

Worth getting out of bed for

Notch up some lengths in the outdoor pool, and explore the hotel’s woodlands. Sit out in your own mini garden, with a couple of books and a bottle of wine, or be more sociable, and enjoy drinks at the bar or beside the fire. Martina Franca, a fairytale, whitewashed town, is just 4km away. Locorotondo is another trulli-graced town nearby, worth exploring for its rich wine heritage and local history. The dramatic, hillside town of Ostuni is 45 minutes away, and perfect for a day trip.

Local restaurants

Bina (+39 (0)8 04 31 17 84) at 44–50 via Dottor Recchia, Locorotondo, has a menu brimming with local specialities, including purea di fave (bean purée with sautéed chicory). Piazzetta Garibaldi is an understated osteria at 17–18 piazza Garibaldi that offers honest, home-style cooking, and a selection of local wines. It’s worth booking at Trattoria le Ruote (+39 (0)8 04 83 74 73) at 52 Contrada Primicerio in Martina Franca – especially at lunchtime, when the reasonably priced, flavoursome dishes lure in a loyal crowd.

Reviews

Photos Masseria Fumarola reviews
Quentin Jones

Anonymous review

By Quentin Jones, Life in pictures

As we zip up the mountain roads towards Martina Franca, Mr Smith is growing increasingly enthused about Puglia’s architecture looking, as he so eloquently puts it, ‘like boobs’. The hills are dotted with trulli, buildings clustered in small mounds with nipple-like peaks. To me they seem quite exotic, Moorish almost, compared to the Italian buildings I’ve seen before. Naturally, Mr Smith is pretty excited that we will be sleeping in one of these fertile-looking huts together.

The sun is dipping away as we approach the hotel from a winding country road, overlooked by the plump silhouettes of hundreds of trulli. Occasionally we slow down to check if any of these rustic piles are worthy of the ‘boutique’ label. But each weather-beaten hut looks much like the last. When we eventually pull into our destination we feel quite silly for supposing the entrance to our masseria would in any way have resembled those for the vineyards we have been passing. The gate to our hotel is mammoth, and it is no less than thrilling when it starts to roll open to reveal the twinkling lights of Masseria Fumarola.

Arriving here at dusk is magical. The hotel consists of huddles of small, immaculately painted white trulli and canopied seating areas, connected by tree-lined gravel paths that are lit by hundreds of tiny lanterns. These peasant-built dwellings have been transformed into a maze of mini luxury hideaways. This, in my opinion, is the best type of boutique hotel: a modest local building that is developed in a way that is both unique and sensitive to its original charm.

Now, I am one of those people who gets overly excited about great bathrooms. So I can’t help but let out a sound that betrays how thrilled I am when I see that we have a two-person Jacuzzi. A remote control that opens a skylight right above it – in the very nipple of our rooftop – elicits another squeal. The idea of various small domes in the garden letting out steam into the night sky like so many little teapots tickles me. Mr Smith? He couldn’t care less. He is already cruising the Italian MTV options on a flatscreen in the very same colour as the stone walls; it’s at the end of a bed sitting inside a grape-crushing well.
I am, perhaps worryingly, not ashamed to say that – like proper Brits abroad – our focus while we’re away is on:
a) catching the sun; b) eating to our absolute maximum capacity; and c) drinking as much local wine as possible. We exceed even our own expectations at all three and we are soon burnt, bloated and very content.

Having told Mr Smith in plain words that we would be spending our first afternoon by the pool, amid a sea of white loungers across two levels of decking, we agree to dilute my pleasure-seeking mania with a morning exploring Martina Franca. The streets of the old town are beautiful, cobbled and labyrinthine, but getting lost is sweetened by fresh hazelnut gelato, and several macchiato pit stops. As we cross the piazzas, I notice that my bare British limbs are causing a few raised eyebrows. We then notice that the inhabitants of the town are wearing furs, hats and scarves. Spot the Londoner keen to worship the spring sun in Italy.

Italian culture has a holy trinity: food, family and fashion. Masseria Fumarola sings a song of praise to all three. The relaxed dining room is the setting for culinary magic – al dente orecchiette cloaked in seasonal sauces; toothsome grilled meat; delicate cakes and pastries. And you’ll never be able to look at beer and peanuts in the same way after sampling the hotel’s antipasti: hunks of creamy local cheeses paired with slivers of salty salami. A favourite meal out for us is at family-run Ristorante Sagitarrio, where we feast on regional specialities having fought the locals to bag a table on Saturday night. There are pictures of the owner all over the wall, and I am naff enough to mention his resemblance to Tony Soprano. (This is after a €2 litre of Pugliese wine.)

Masseria Fumarola works so well because it makes the most of what Puglia has to offer. Waking up to a jug of fresh blood-orange juice, cappuccino and local breads, and spending our days surrounded by green woodlands dotted with white huts is a delight. Everything is easy and simple – the hotel, its proximity to the town, even the short drive to the airport. We leave feeling we have had a real holiday rather than just a quick break.
At Masseria Fumarola, there’s not a stand-out feature to shout about as such – more a plethora of tiny perfections, every one low-key and intimate. Since returning home, Mr Smith and I have both recommended the hotel to many a friend – each time with an air of smugness. For some reason, the place left us with the feeling that we had personally discovered it – not exactly the truth. But as someone who sat in the sun by that seductive garden pool, listening to bird chatter as attentive staff brought over freshly made ricotta cheesecake, I feel justified in claiming it as our very special secret…

Reviewed by Quentin Jones, illustrator

The Guestbook

Whenever you book a stay at a Smith hotel or villa, we’ll invite you to review it when you get back. Read what other Smith members had to say in Masseria Fumarola’s Guestbook below.

We loved

The warm welcome, friendly staff, beautiful food and excellent room. Quiet and peaceful location to totally relax.

Don’t expect

Wild nights.

Rating

Stayed on 6 Aug 2018

We loved

We absolutely loved this charming Masseria, which is situated in a winery. The grounds are so lush and green, it feels really authentically Italian with giant rosemary bushes and creeping grape vines (they almost look fake, they're so beautiful). It was a great experience to be in Puglia and stay in a trullo. The service we experienced was great; the two ladies at the front desk (I regrettably can't remember their names!) were so friendly and helpful and not in the least bit pretentious. The pool area is lovely: peaceful, decent size and comfortable lounge chairs. Definitely rent a car as the Masseria is in a great location to visit the other towns in the area - Alberobello, Ceglie Massepica, Otranto. We drove to Ceglie Massepica and went to a restaurant called Cibus which was really lovely.

Don’t expect

Don't expect schmick modern rooms. They are very comfortable but definitely have a rustic charm about them.

Rating

Stayed on 25 Jul 2018

We loved

The pool area, the quiet, the breakfast, the grounds (so beautiful and peaceful), the spacious bedroom and bathroom. Eat at Il Saggitario restaurant in Martina Franca - not in the old town but serving truly delicious pasta at lunch and pizza at dinner.

Don’t expect

Lively evenings. The hotel doesn't serve lunch so you'll need to go out, and no longer puts on dinner every evening. A car is essential. There are also no tea and coffee making facilities.

Rating

Stayed on 12 Jul 2018

We loved

We really loved everything. The staff made us feel welcome, sleeping in a trullo was so peaceful and comfortable, the location was perfect to visit both the north and south coast. The hotel organised two buffet dinners, which were delicious. Excellent local wine too. We went to a Michelin-starred restaurant in Ostuni called Cielo, which was excellent. Ostuni itself has lots to see, but we also liked Polignano a Mare.

Don’t expect

Nightlife.

Rating

Stayed on 12 Jun 2018

We loved

I loved the ambience of the place.

Don’t expect

Disco nights. 

Rating

Stayed on 9 Sep 2017

We loved

The beautiful scenery, lovely staff and gorgeous pool. The beautiful Ostuni is a 40 minute walk away and Martina Franca is gorgeous and definitely worth a visit in the evening.

Don’t expect

Anything to be in walking distance; a rental car is definitely recommended.

Rating

Stayed on 31 Jul 2017

We loved

Everything.

Don’t expect

Wild nightlife.

Rating

Stayed on 27 Jul 2017

We loved

Quiet, beautiful landscape and peaceful atmosphere. Grottaglie ceramics district. Ostuni old town.

Don’t expect

Lunch or dinner at the Masseria: all restaurants are a short drive away.

Rating

Stayed on 12 Jun 2017

We loved

Beautiful views, lovely pool, nice room, and peace and quiet. We had an amazing 8 course organic lunch at Masseria Il Frantoio near Ostuni and a tour of the 500 year old farm house and olive grove – would def recommend!

Don’t expect

Wild nights.

Rating

Stayed on 11 Jun 2017

We loved

Setting, ambience, quality of accommodation, attentiveness. The towns in this area are all charming.

Don’t expect

To get anywhere without a car.

Rating

Stayed on 2 May 2017

We loved

The room, the view, the peace and quiet and the lovely staff.

Don’t expect

Not to have to drive to a restaurant for dinner; the pool to be open in early May.

Rating

Stayed on 1 May 2017

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