Hotel Saint André des Arts

It had to be Paris. Cliché or not, it had to be Paris. After a whirlwind year, which saw Mr Smith and I having recently opened a new restaurant in London, not to mention the fact my birthday deserved a celebration, we welcomed the opportunity to recharge and indulge in a getaway to the city of lights, gastronomy and passion.

Following a few short hours on the Eurostar and a hop on the Metro, we found ourselves not far from the banks of the Seine, in the 6eme arrondissement. While hardly Paris virgins, neither of us had visited this particular area before and found it a great combination of joie de vivre and Gallic cool, with bustling bistros, bakeries and paths carved out for shopping along the way. 

If the façade of the Hôtel Saint-André des Arts, with its original antique oak doors, initially appeared unassuming, when we crossed the threshold we were transported into an unbelievably stylish world of mid-century design. The interior, which is the work of architect Chloé Nègre, pays homage to the hotel’s history, having counted numerous musicians, chanteuses and movie actors as guests over the years. It was a mixture of specially sourced vintage furniture from the 1960s and 1970s: Vernon Panton lights and Tam Tam stools were spotted – plus custom-made items, ‘flower-power’- and Pop Art-inspired yet crafted with maximum comfort in mind, ensuring neither style nor substance are overlooked.

While the building has been home to a hotel, in various guises, since the middle of the 20th century, it actually dates to the 1600s. This is evidenced by the exposed original beams and vaulted stone ceiling you can recline under in a sea of scented bubbles in the hotel’s on-site spa (more on that later). The soft sound of jazz playing in the lobby (on vinyl, obviously) and the warm scent of sage and nettle tied a bow around this retro-fabulous atmosphere. Bardot et al would approve.

We found our room tucked away on the second floor and accessible by lift (appropriately decked in fabric prints of Cocteau’s The Dreamer). It was pretty spacious by Parisian hotel standards. The bathroom was a minimalist delight, stocked with organic and vegan toiletries. Two large windows afforded great views of the busy streets below and were framed by diaphanous lace curtains which could be drawn for privacy, creating the ideal sanctuary to kick back, relax and share a bottle of champagne – which was just one of the many sensual delights of our stay. The staff, dressed in uniforms that matched the hotel’s design aesthetic, were attentive without being overbearing. When the bouquet of flowers Mr Smith had arranged to have waiting for me in our room on arrival failed to materialise they quickly arranged for one to be delivered a little later on

Paris is perfect for wandering. On our first day, after a quick but beautiful stroll, we found ourselves exploring the 11th arrondissement. Here we spent several hours falling in and out of vintage shops, sifting through furniture, clothes and bric-à-brac. We ate a hilariously debauched meal at Vivant Deux and Mr Smith treated me to a birthday lunch at Le Servan, yet another highlight of our trip. Being so centrally located in the French capital, the hotel is also well situated for visits to a number of Paris’ greatest hits; both the Jardin du Luxembourg and the Louvre are a 15-minute walk away. (Have you even been to Paris if you haven’t taken a picture of yourself pinching the point of its famous glass pyramid?)

The following afternoon, we hit the hotel spa, hidden away on the ground floor. Once again, the staff were super professional and discreet, allowing us to feel completely alone and relaxed. One word of advice however – we had hoped to book a massage, but found – as the hotel sources their masseuse from outside rather than employing one in-house – that treatments need to be booked well in advance of arriving at the hotel.

After such a wonderful weekend, removed from the everyday stresses of modern life – the hotel really does make you feel like you’re stepping back in time to the more swinging eras – I admit Mr Smith and I found it difficult to drag ourselves away. However, we left feeling completely relaxed, vowing to return soon and to make the Hôtel Saint-André des Arts our go-to pit stop in the city when it has to be Paris, again.