Hotel Peralada basks in the balmy Mediterranean climes of Catalonia’s rural Alt Empordà region, between the fine sands of the Costa Brava to the east, the colourful mediaeval streets of Girona to the south, and the undulating Pyrenees in the north.
Planes
Girona Airport is 38 miles from the hotel, around 50 minutes’ drive. It’s just under two hours from Barcelona Airport.
Trains
The closest train station is at Figueres, seven miles from the hotel. Figueres is served by trains from Barcelona and Girona.
Automobiles
Hotel Peralada’s rural location means you’re likely going to want your own set of wheels. Cruise the Costa Brava’s Balearic bluffs, explore the wild landscapes of the Empordà Aiguamolls Natural Park and draw lazy tapas lunches out until dinner in any one of several charming mediaeval towns around Girona. Heck, you could even take a sunny coastal spin down to Barcelona for the day if the mood takes you. There’s ample free parking at the hotel, to boot.
Worth getting out of bed for
That huge expanse of greenery behind Hotel Peralada is no mere pasture, but a Costa Brava golf course par excellence, where swingers can play 18 holes before retiring to the 19th bar to compare score sheets over a fruity Peralada cab sauv or crisp cold cava.
Indeed, the wine (and the winery that produces it) is the star of the show here, where you can opt for a basic tasting experience in the hotel’s Nou Celler 1923 bar or upgrade to a cheese masterclass (with paired wines, natch) from one of the estate’s resident sommeliers. Join a tasting tour that include visits to the winery and vineyards, or go full bells-and-whistles with the platinum experience: a guided tour of the 14th-century Peralada Castle that takes in its fine-art collection, Harry Potteresque library, stork-filled gardens, atmospheric cloisters and ancient wine vaults before winding up at the winery for a taste of some of the estate’s top – hic – wines.
On the off-chance that by, say, day three or four, you’ve run out of Alka-Seltzer and crave a few hours of self-imposed sobriety, strike out to explore the dreamlike Empordà landscapes that so inspired Salvador Dalí, then hit up the Figueres museum dedicated to his life and work. You’ll be unsurprised to learn, after laying eyes on the extraordinary egg-topped exterior of the Dalí Theatre and Museum, that this eye-popping edifice in the heart of Dalí’s hometown was designed by the man himself. Inside, the maestro’s mortal remains rest in a crypt beneath the theatre stage, alongside the largest collection of his work on the planet. Eyes peeled for surrealist masterpieces including Galatea of the Spheres, Soft Self-Portrait with Grilled Bacon, and Dalí’s legendary Mae West Lips Sofa installation.
It would be a ‘shame… shame… shame’ to miss an iconic Game of Thrones photo opportunity on the steps of Gothic Girona Cathedral while you’re in the region. Afterwards, scale the mediaeval city walls for sunset views across a sea of rust-red rooftops. Girona’s Jewish Quarter dates way back to the 12th century and is one of the best-preserved in Europe; seek out secret courtyards among its labyrinthine lanes to pause for a reviving rugelach and espresso.
Many of the Costa Brava’s famously sandy beaches can be reached within a half-hour drive of Hotel Peralada. Discover the pine-fringed movie-star looks of Rostella Cove or head for the ever-popular bays at Cap Ras. Or opt for the relative seclusion of Garbet Beach, sandwiched neatly between the crystalline waters of the Mediterranean and the coastal vineyards responsible for some of the Peralada Estate’s most celebrated wines.
Local restaurants
Once you’ve clocked Hotel Peralada’s trio of excellent restaurants and battery of wine bars, you might well conclude that leaving the estate’s grounds is entirely unnecessary. After all, it’s not as if they’re about to run out of wine any time soon.
For those who absolutely must venture out in search of further regional treats, Restaurant La Muga, 10 minutes from the hotel, is a solid choice. It’s set in a century-old farmhouse, complete with stone arches, low, beamed ceilings and colourful stained-glass windows. Guests can expect a menu crammed with Catalonian favourites including Iberian ham, fried goats’ cheese, grilled rabbit and fresh figs with local honey and cream.
Set in the coastal village of Roses, Sumac takes its inspiration from influences as eclectic as the Middle East, the Tramontane winds that blow down from the mountains, and the works of Salvador Dalí. There’s nothing surreal about the food here though, where dishes include the likes of scallop ceviche, market-fresh fried fish and roast suckling pig, wagyu steaks from the Empordà, and deliciously sweet passionfruit ravioli. A long list of wines (including a few from the Peralada Estate, natch) rounds out the experience.
Local bars
Peralada is wine country and, again, you’re already in the best place to take full advantage. However, should you find yourself hankering for a cocktail or cold beer along the way, Girona is likely to be your best bet.
Hit up El Doll, a popular little cervecería where punters pull their own pints. Simply buy a swipe card at the bar and while away the evening sampling fine local craft beers straight from the silver taps at each table. A selection of tapas, specially selected to complement the resident beers, helps soak it all up when the novelty of pouring your own drinks leads to accidental overindulgence.
Old town stalwart La Malabarista is heroically and unswervingly dedicated to the pleasures of vermouth, with well over 20 varieties of this Catalonian staple – including a few from the Empordà – available inside its tiny backstreet bar. Drink yours neat with a side of olives and cheese cubes, or mix it up with a negroni, Manhattan or ‘vermujito’ cocktail.
