Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar

After a sleepless flight, I walked through Oman airport completely zombified. Luckily, Mr Smith and I were soon greeted by a very friendly driver and a slick four-by-four that was decked out with everything we needed to refresh us after our flight — the comfiest seats, gallons of water, dates stuffed with nuts and a cool towel. Within minutes, the sense that Anantara knows what its guests need was clear. 

As we meandered through the mountains of Oman, I gently fell in and out of sleep. We finally caught sight of Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar in the distance: a James Bond-eqsue fortress in the dusty, rugged cliffs awaited us. Set 6,500 feet above sea level, this area is famous for its hiking trails and stunning views — and as we approached the hotel, it was clear that the scenery would become the main attraction.

As we walked through the hotel, a fort-like mix of modern and ancient style, with stone pathways and low-rise, earthy-toned buildings, my eye was drawn to the canyon, a view that would have us completely mesmerised throughout our trip. Keen to take in the view, we quickly dumped our bags in our room and headed straight to the pool, perfectly located on the canyon's edge. A friendly waiter served us a much needed gin and tonic, and proper relaxation mode kicked in.

There are a few options at the resort for dinner. On our first night we went to Al Maisan, which serves simple Arabic food. The casual atmosphere, coupled with the super-friendly staff, made for a very-much-needed relaxing first night. 

On our second night, we opted to have dinner at the edge of the cliff, the very spot where Princess Diana stood when she visited in 1986. What we hadn’t expected was that it was going to be a private dinner with our own personal chef, and although the idea of taking in the stunning views during dinner sounded great, in the pitch black we couldn’t see a thing. If you want to try it, I'd recommend booking this experience for before sunset.

Breakfast the next day was perfect. A generous buffet of fresh fruit, from blood oranges to the sweetest mangos; perfectly cooked, made-to-order eggs and good strong coffee. Each morning was a delicious and peaceful affair. 

On our second day, we strolled to some local villages, on a serene and memorable walk along the cliffs. We opted not to have a guide — perhaps it would have been advisable, as it’s not particularly well signposted, but we had hours to spare and were happy to explore the routes through the dusty hills, along the ancient irrigation system and the skinny paths at the edge of the cliffs. Don’t expect to see many inhabitants in the villages, as the buildings are mostly abandoned. We walked for three hours and barely saw a soul, which is just what we needed. 

Afternoons were reserved for some much-needed relaxation in the spa. Small but perfectly formed, it has a sauna and steam room, as well as a hammam. The treatments were perfectly good, nothing exceptional, but a massage followed by an hour in the hammam was heavenly. 

As we left the hotel, supremely relaxed even after just a short break, we considered our stay. The staff were well-informed and happy, the food was simple and authentic, the breakfasts were abundant and fresh — everything was done perfectly well. But the views, oh, the views… I would go back in a heartbeat, just for that view.