When to go
The summer months are hot, hot, hot – avoid June, July and August. Christmas here is very popular, snow-capped Atlas in view but often glaring sunshine during the day.
PlanesTaourirt Airport 20mins from town; one-hour flight to Casablanca
AutomobilesA five-hour drive from Marrekech. It’s a good idea to hire a car while you’re out there as the surrounding areas are stunning and many of the roads have been improved by significant recent investment. Avis (www.avis.co.uk) have a branch at Ouarzazate airport, or there are local companies available.
TaxisMost people use petit taxis to get around town and it’s perfectly normal for your taxi to stop and pick up other passengers. Don’t be alarmed if they start the cab by popping it into neutral and pushing it down a hill – eventually you’ll make your destination. Drops within Ouarzazate seem to be 10 dirhams regardless – tips not required. The price for a grand taxis (usually old Mercs) jumps to 170 dirhams.
This awe-inspiring, 19th-century confection of a hotel was created by a Parisian party planner, and a chic sense of occasion carries through every hidden herb garden, secret candlelit terrace and spacious Superior Suite: each room is swathed in silks and packed with antique treasures, and the Atlas Mountain views are amazing. The most romantic touch, though, might be what isn’t there: each suite is TV- and telephone-free.