When to go
Crete has a long high season – from mid April to October. The island sizzles and simmers in June and July, with temperatures above 40 degrees, so avoid these months if you're no sun worshipper.
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PlanesThe three main airports are Heraklion | Chania and Sitia. Easyjet serves the former | with direct flights from LGW (www.easyjet.com). BMI | Multiple Airlines | Aegean Airways and Olympic Air also offer indirect flights to Heraklion and Chania | with stop-offs in Athens | Eleftherios Venizelos and sometimes Munich.
BoatsHop on a ferry from mainland Greece. There are plenty of different options: boats from Piraeus stop at Agios Nikolaos, Chania, Heraklion and Rethymno; from Gythio head north west to Kissamos-Kastelli; from Thessaloniki dock at Heraklion (www.ferries.gr).
TaxisFlagging down a taxi in the mountains might prove irksome; ask your hotel to book cabs for you.
Hidden among the island’s largest olive grove (the hotel has its own 18th-century press), this traditional Greek hotel is so similar to a quaint Mediterranean village that you could almost miss it. Inside the Pegasus room, things are simple, understated and unequivocally Greek. Whitewashed walls, farmhouse furniture, a king-size bed graced with sprigs of lavender and rosemary, a cosy seating area and an oak-clad bathroom stocked with olive-oil unguents all lie behind a heavy wooden door. The suite’s sprawling terrace overlooks the flower-flanked pool and the soundproofed windows ensure this sexy sea-facing room keeps its secrets to itself.