When to go
Crete has a long high season – from mid April to October. The island sizzles and simmers in June and July, with temperatures above 40 degrees, so avoid these months if you're no sun worshipper.
PlanesThe three main airports are Heraklion | Chania and Sitia. Easyjet serves the former | with direct flights from LGW (www.easyjet.com). BMI | Multiple Airlines | Aegean Airways and Olympic Air also offer indirect flights to Heraklion and Chania | with stop-offs in Athens | Eleftherios Venizelos and sometimes Munich.
BoatsHop on a ferry from mainland Greece. There are plenty of different options: boats from Piraeus stop at Agios Nikolaos, Chania, Heraklion and Rethymno; from Gythio head north west to Kissamos-Kastelli; from Thessaloniki dock at Heraklion (www.ferries.gr).
TaxisFlagging down a taxi in the mountains might prove irksome; ask your hotel to book cabs for you.
Hidden among the island’s largest olive grove (the hotel has its own 18th-century press), this traditional Greek hotel is so similar to a quaint Mediterranean village that you could almost miss it. Inside the Pegasus room, things are simple, understated and unequivocally Greek. Whitewashed walls, farmhouse furniture, a king-size bed graced with sprigs of lavender and rosemary, a cosy seating area and an oak-clad bathroom stocked with olive-oil unguents all lie behind a heavy wooden door. The suite’s sprawling terrace overlooks the flower-flanked pool and the soundproofed windows ensure this sexy sea-facing room keeps its secrets to itself.