Dressing up for dinner, we make our way to Oazia Spavodka Bar and Kitchen. After passing large-scale signs painted with ‘Love’ and other mood-boosting mantras, it comes as a surprise to arrive at a clubby, glam space, complete with a mirror ball and giant unicorn.
Here we’re treated to a fabulous meal (including the best squid-ink risotto I’ve ever had), but what impresses us most is the aphrodisiac cocktail list, loaded with devilishly named drinks such as ‘I’ve Got Love’ and ‘The Secret Beach’. I order the ‘Hours to Flowers’, a delicious wild hibiscus (rosella) and vodka concoction that’s said to increase desire. It’s the perfect way to wrap up our first night at Oazia Spa Villas, and our cue to head back to our room.
Flash back to earlier that morning. Leaving behind Canggu’s chaotic streets, it’s with relief that Mr Smith and I slip into this gorgeous boutique retreat, hidden away from the Bali crowds. Greeted at the entrance, we’re led down a beautiful corridor straight to our one-bed escape, Oazia Orchid.
Ornate timber doors swing open to reveal a huge sanctuary (and we’re told this is the smallest villa!), where a large pool takes pride of place, surrounded by ornamental gardens and a lush canopy of tropical trees. Views across neighbouring rice paddies, the sounds of a trickling creek and the gentle hum of kites being flown overheard create an unmistakable sense of place. ‘I could get used to this,’ exclaims Mr Smith.
The idyllic setting may be textbook Bali, but the villa interiors are more of a global grab bag. A fresh white-on-white colour scheme plays host to a mix of trad wooden furniture, Buddha statues, crystal chandeliers and velvet cushions, for a look that’s best described as Hamptons-chic meets Balinese-rustic, with a touch of Russian bling for good measure.
Ticking all our Bali essentials, the indoors and outdoors mesh seamlessly, with alfresco living areas, a breezy bedroom with an oversized four-poster, and an open-air pebbled bathroom with freestanding oval terrazzo bath tub.
This rockstar-ready package comes with the bonus of a driver, who’s on hand to take us wherever we like. We make good use of this service over the weekend, heading to nearby Seminyak to peruse the fashion stores and kids’ boutiques. We also travel to famed Echo Beach, where Hamish surfs the popular break, and visit Sardine, a cool seafood restaurant set right on the edge of a rice field.
Feeling like one of those jet-setting New York power couples with a personal assistant, we’re also handed a phone at check-in, filled with the numbers of staff happy to cater to our every whim. One such whim is a massage at the day spa, a riverfront retreat with flowing white curtains, open-air treatment spaces and a large Watsu pool for water massages. As if it wasn’t enough to be treated to a blissful Balinese massage, one of the therapists offers to mind our daughter, so we can enjoy the experience together. We wrap up the night with that seductive dinner.
Lingering over breakfast at our kitchen table the next morning, we savour a bountiful spread of fresh juices, fruit and nasi goreng (Indonesian fried rice topped with an egg). As we’re well and truly in the holiday mood by now, we treat ourselves to another spa session, this time signing up for a holistic therapy. Rather impressively, the practitioner is able to sum up exactly what I need after barely touching me. A usually sceptical Mr Smith is also taken aback by this left-of-centre, yet effective approach. Bali is working its magic.
After floating back to the villa, we spend the afternoon in the tranquil garden, lounging on day-beds, soaking in the tub and watching the sun set. Mr Smith even manages to finish reading his first book in three years. There’s no need to dial up the driver, our spa wizard or one of the staff. For now we’re content just to be.