Although far from alone in carrying the title ‘cycling capital of Europe’, with its serpentine sierra roads, stunning scenery and bike-friendly stays, Mallorca is starting to break away from the pack.
Together with a Lycra-clad boom in velo-tourism, the Balearic isle has become a Tour de France training ground for the professionals, too. Join us as we get on our bike to pedal around its best cycling routes.
VALLDEMOSSA TO SÓLLER
Best known for a certain Polish pianist holing up in its monastery over a soggy winter, Valldemossa also sits among the most eye-pleasing of all the island’s mountain villages. The charming town of Sóller isn’t far behind, set in a coastal valley basin scattered with orchards cultivating what first put this town on the map – some of the world’s sweetest oranges.
The 30 kilometres between them is one of Mallorca’s most popular cycle routes, largely thanks to the Col de Soller. It’s a glorious climb and descent with no less than 50 hairpin turns that take you through a ridiculously scenic mountain pass. You can also loop back through another well-known beauty, the village of Deià, for a four-hour round trip.
Where to stay Being set just outside the pretty mountain town, staying at the Mirabó de Valldemossa makes for some of the best vistas over it. Mirabó meaning ‘good view’ is also a clue. The only problem is tearing yourself away from it to set off on your cycle. If you do make it, L’Avenida in Sóller offers the town’s snazziest hideaway. Designed by one of Gaudi’s protégés, this former merchant’s mansion has bags of zhuzh just a leafy stroll from the town centre and the chime of passing vintage trams.
PALMA TO ES TRENC
Using Palma as a base for a day or two not only means you get to explore this fascinating city but offers access to some decent cycling routes. Join the coastal cycle path anywhere along the Mallorcan capital and swoosh along the seafront, past the mighty Gothic cathedral and with the shimmering sweep of Palma Bay at your side.
The bike-friendly path stretches all the way to S’Arenal resort before cutting into Mallorcan campo and its fragrant patchwork of vineyards, citrus orchards and olive groves. After three hours of pedal-pumping you’re treated to the glorious sight of Es Trenc, a long stretch of golden sand that could easily pass for the Caribbean.
Where to stay Not only can El Llorenç Parc de la Mar claim the only rooftop infinity pool in Palma, just wait until you see the views – a broad horizon of shimmering sea-meets-sky blue. You’re also just across the road from the start of the route. For a spectacular stay on the loop, Cap Rocat is a formidable former fortress and only one of a handful of hotels that can compete with El Llorence for Palma Bay vistas.
ANDRATX TO POLLENÇA
The Mallorca 312 is the Balearic’s biggest, and longest, cycling race that loops around the island almost coast to coast. At 194 miles it’s not really the stuff of cycling holidays, however the Andratx to Pollença section of it is both manageable and magnificent.
At over 70 miles it’s still a bit of a slog, but most of it is through the spectacular Tramuntana Sierra scenery flanked by long stretches of sparkling water, vertiginous valleys and sheer cliffs. What’s more, you have the rather lovely town of Pollença to stretch your legs in when you arrive.
Where to stay Just a short cycle from Pollença town is the artfully restored Jesuit monastery of Son Brull. A long driveway lined with lush vineyards, peppery lavender and lemon groves ends at an elegantly restored 18th-century retreat fully geared towards rest and relaxation. An oh-so-chic spa offers a world of limb-rejuvenating possibilities, plus every room provides a bubble-tub for more private pampering.
PORT DE SOLLER TO SA CALOBRA
Ask a seasoned Mallorca cyclist to name their favourite spot, and chances are they’ll go misty-eyed over Sa Calobra. This spaghetti squiggle of a stretch, however, is as punishing as it is picturesque, looping through a particularly steep slice of sierra before descending to a dazzling cove set in a soaring limestone canyon.
A three-hour cycle away, the charming Port de Sóller makes for the perfect starting point. Time it right and you can hop on a boat back around – only the hardiest attempt the return on two wheels.
Where to stay If you’ve still got it in you for another winding climb, a path cross-crosses up the surrounding Sóller valley to C’as Xorc. Gasp-worthy views sweep over the pine-bristling mountains and out to a shimmering strip of sea from this hotel’s lofty perch. Child-free serenity is guaranteed from wherever you’re drinking it in, whether soaking in the sea-view infinity pool or sipping cava Aperol on the shade-dappled dining terrace – you’ve earned this.
SANTANYÍ TO ARTA
If you’d rather steer clear of all those energy-sapping inclines, head to the south-east of the island and start your cycle in sleepy Santanyí. An hour or so in, the town of Felanitx makes for a particularly pretty pit stop, but be sure to skirt the unlovely Manacor next along.
From here you can join the Vias Verdes, former railroads converted into a cycle route in 2015. It cuts through level landscape all the way to Artà, alternating between broad plains and wild forests, with the occasional former station recycled into a rest stop.
Where to stay One reason to hit this route is that it is bookended by two of the finest hotels on the island. In the centre of Santanyí, Can Ferrereta has been piled with an embarrassment of praise since opening in 2021. This sighingly chic hideaway is a flawlessly restored 17th-century farmstead steeped in understated luxe. And at the other end, Es Racó D’Artà melds rustic-chic with Zen-infused serenity and elevated activities such as mindful hiking, stargazing and pottery workshops.
CALA VINCENC TO CAP FORMENTOR
Have you even cycled in Mallorca if you haven’t cycled up to Cap de Formentor? Peak-cycle-season crowds here attest to this as one of the two-wheel must-dos. From the bijou beach resort of Cala Vincenc, you swoop around a verdant valley, past the popular Port de Pollença, and start your climb.
After a few hairy hairpins, it’s worth a stop at the Es Colomer for a breather-with-views. The route then winds along the finger-like peninsula (Mallorca’s longest) to the iconic Formentor lighthouse, complete with café and surprisingly good cheesecake.
Where to stay The prospect of returning to El Vicenç de la Mar will certainly add some tailwind as you loop back along the peninsula. It’s the more laid-back beachier brother to El Llorenç, with a similarly sleek design, first-class features and sea views. Admittedly, the soaring jagged cliffs make for a more impressive vista as you float about in this one’s rooftop swimming pool.
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