Luxury holidays in Mai Chau

Part of Mai Chau’s appeal is how little there is there, set four hours’ drive from Hanoi, it’s rural as can be, with valleys given over to greenery, mountains that change floral coats with the seasons, placid lakes and natural parks. But, this northwestern region of Vietnam is deceptively low-key, because three ethnic groups (the Thais, Hmongs and Muongs) spread across traditional villages and stepped paddies have enriched it with heritage craft traditions and unique cultural pastimes, say Xòe dancing, batik and brocade weaving, and symbol-heavy silver jewellery-making. All this and the lush landscape mix as deliciously as the herbs, spices and broth in regional pho.