Vila Foz Hotel & Spa

Driving out of Porto, the crowded, winding streets of the city slowly gave way to expansive open roads, with the Douro River on one side, its monumental bridges arching overhead, and the ocean stretching out before us. After a leisurely drive along the waterfront, we turned through the ornate iron gates of Vila Foz and up its cobbled driveway. As we stepped out of the car, two smiling doormen welcomed us, guiding us up the stone stairs and through the stained-glass doors of the hotel. 

While Mr Smith attended to check-in, I took the opportunity to explore the lounge and bar. They both blend 1920s glamour and modern comfort: an archway with finely etched glass, wood-panelled walls and parquet floors, with a palette of deep reds and vibrant lime greens. Passports checked, we ascended the sweeping staircase to our Manor House Room on the first floor.

Like downstairs, our room exuded elegance, seamlessly merging old-world charm with contemporary touches. Our king-size bed faced two large windows that framed the lush gardens below and the ocean beyond. While Mr Smith gravitated towards the minibar, especially the bottle of local port, I was drawn to the opulent bathroom, with its enormous tub overlooking the secluded gardens and, with a tilt of the head, a glimpse of the sea.

The next day began with a gentle ride on hotel bicycles along the serene Foz shoreline, the ocean breeze in our hair. In the afternoon, we strolled through Porto's streets, marvelling at its iconic tiled buildings and exploring its museums. Slightly exhausted, we returned to the hotel just in time for dinner.

Vila Foz boasts two restaurants, one of which has a Michelin star, but that evening we opted for the more relaxed atmosphere of Flor de Lis. Before dinner, we detoured to the hotel’s bar for a Porto Spritz, which, naturally, swaps the Aperol for port. Thirsts quenched, we headed down to the restaurant, where we dined alfresco beneath the bar’s balcony. The seasonal menu, with a strong emphasis on fresh, local seafood, was paired beautifully with a crisp white wine recommended by the sommelier. As the sun dipped below the Atlantic, warm woollen blankets were offered, just in time to keep us cosy for dessert. We returned to our room for a nightcap and an exceptionally restful night’s sleep.

Due to the popularity of Vila Foz and our late planning, we had to change rooms on our second night. After a hearty breakfast of freshly made pastéis de nata and eggs prepared to our liking, we moved to our Onice Sea View Room in the hotel’s newer wing. This room had a distinctly different vibe: gone was the old-world glamour, replaced by light wood furnishings, a wave-imitating headboard, crisp white linens and panoramic sea views.

The tranquillity continued downstairs in the hotel’s spa. The centrepiece is an inviting pool surrounded by floor-to-ceiling glass doors that slide open onto a small terrace. After a dip in the pool, followed by a session in the sauna and Turkish bath, I left Mr Smith to his own devices, while I indulged in the Elemental Bliss spa treatment: two hours of expert scrubbing and massaging by the capable hands of Carolina.

Our final morning began with the usual end-of-holiday blues, swiftly alleviated by a glass (or two) of champagne at breakfast. After savouring one last pastel de nata and saying a wistful farewell to the spa and sea views, we checked out and bid our final goodbyes to Vila Foz. As we drove away, we started our customary post-holiday recap. For Mr Smith, ever the accountant, the breakdown was precise and methodical. In translation: Vila Foz offers an exquisite blend of old-school opulence and modern comfort on the shores of the Atlantic, with exceptional dining, a peaceful spa where guests can recharge after exploring Porto’s hills and cobblestoned streets, and plenty of port at hand. It’s hard not to fall in love with this refined coastal retreat.