Valletta Vintage

Maltese capital Valletta might be rich in beauty and steeped in history but, truth be told, I’ve not thought of it as the stuff of romantic city-break fantasies. Nevertheless, I’m drawn in by the promise of a weekend at one of its best-dressed stays. It’s not until we’re all checked in and I start reading around that I realise Malta has dusted off its sleepy reputation and started attracting a younger, cooler crowd. The metamorphosis of Valletta has been completed with its European Capital of Culture coronation. Tourists lured by pop-up exhibitions and contemporary art festivals, of course, need somewhere suitably design-conscious to stay – and, it turns out, boutique hotel Valletta Vintage is just the ticket.

After arriving in the midday heat, it’s a welcome relief to step into the vaulted entrance of the 18th-century townhouse and up into Atelier, the mid-century-style studio that’s ours for the weekend. Valletta Vintage is a collection of five boltholes across the city, created by Malta’s very own starchitect, Cris Briffa, as ‘an alternative to mainstream holiday accommodation.’ Apt, as it’s safe to say there’s nothing mainstream here. Design buffs will melt at the carefully curated fusion of retro and contemporary finds – from the original patterned floor-tiles to the salvaged hairdressing chair and elegant Glo-Ball desk light.

The open-plan apartment optimises every inch of the space, taking advantage of the building’s existing nooks and curves. Beyond our chic four-poster bed lies a walk-through wardrobe and small-but-perfectly-formed bathroom, complete with a powerful rain shower. From the recently restored original balcony, or gallarija as the locals would say, you can see a breathtaking harbour backdrop. We pull up a chair, crack open a free beer and toast to our chic home-from-home.

After a leisurely pootle through the city we find ourselves at the centre of ‘La Marina’ at the Harbour Club, a 17th-century boathouse which has also had the Chris Briffa treatment. The three-storey restaurant, renovated with fine taste and attention to detail, is a place to see and be seen. We take a table on the sun-dappled terrace and settle in, rosé in hand, fresh pasta on fork, to watch the boats zip in and out of the picturesque Grand Harbour. 

Intrigued by the watery goings-on, Mr Smith leads the way to the shore where we pay €2 to board a traditional dghajsa taxi boat which whisks us over to the Three Cities of Birgu, Senglea and Bormla, to the south of Valletta. The 15-minute journey is worth it to explore the ancient streets of Birgu and ogle the ultra-modern superyachts that jostle for attention in the marina. The fusion of old and new is a prevalent theme in Valletta, epitomised by Renzo Piano’s City Gate project; a sunset stroll through the reimagined grand entrance with its enormous limestone slabs and sweeping staircases is pretty breathtaking.

As the day passes and the golden light fades, our thoughts turn once again to our stomachs. Maltese menus feature an eclectic geographic mix, being influenced by Middle Eastern and Sicilian flavours. We consider seeking out traditional Maltese rabbit stew at a local trattoria, but not before we remember a recommendation for Margo’s pizza. With our fresh, hot, boxes of cheesy goodness we race back, past our apartment and up to the duplex roof terrace that sits on the top floor of the townhouse. The terrace is shared between the three studios that each occupy their own floor of the building – Atelier, Library and Gallery – yet we have the roof, and the view, to ourselves and so settle in for a night of stargazing.

Dazzling sunlight peeking through the shutters and sounds of the city busying itself below us are enough to rouse Mr Smith and I from our slumber. A morning jaunt to the newly renovated Old Market Is-Suq Tal-Belt is a feast for the senses, with fresh fruit, meat, fish, breads, herbs, spices, wines and local delicacies on offer. We sample everything, fill our baskets and hotfoot it back from whence we came.

Back in our favourite rooftop spot we’re sipping coffee and polishing off our ricotta-stuffed croissants, ready for another day of touristing hard, when we bump into Chris Briffa himself. The conversation winds its way around his recent and upcoming projects on the Mediterranean Island, many of which involve radically repurposing historic buildings. From art exhibition spaces to hip restaurant renovations and a hanging home, there’s no denying that the country’s design and culture credentials – and Briffa’s hotel know-how – are re-energising this ancient city.