Balapitiya, Sri Lanka

The River House

Rates from (ex tax)$102.33

Price information

If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 21 days.

Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (USD132.01), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.

Style

Minimalist jungle seclusion

Setting

Down by the river

A tiny boutique hotel on the waterfront, packed with authentic Sri Lankan style, the River House is a first-class jungle hideout, perfectly secluded amid the greenery. It’s the sort of laid-back bolthole that feels more like staying at your chic friends’ elegant waterfront home than a hotel… but with butler service.

Smith Extra

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A one-hour boat ride on the river

Facilities

Photos The River House facilities

Need to know

Rooms

Five.

Check–Out

Noon, but flexible, subject to availability. Earliest check-in, 2pm.

Rates

Double rooms from $102.33, excluding tax at 29 per cent. Please note the hotel charges an additional local city tax of 2% per room per night prior to arrival.

Price information

If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 21 days.

Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (USD102.33), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.

More details

Rates usually include international and Sri Lankan breakfast.

Also

The WiFi’s technically available everywhere, but you’ll need to be patient with it at times (or better yet, put down your phone and step away from your email).

At the hotel

Library (with books and DVDs), concierge, free WiFi. In rooms: free WiFi, tea- and coffee-making facilities, TV and DVD player.

Our favourite rooms

We love Gin (it’s the name of the room, not the drink, although we do love that too) for its private courtyard overlooking the river, high ceilings and open-plan spaciousness. You’ll find traditional furniture inside and out, and it exemplifies the hotel’s origins as a private home. Walawe is another favourite, tucked away from the other rooms right on the river bank.

Poolside

Splash lazily about admiring the garden scenery (it’s all tropical plants and manicured lawns), or relax on one of the extra-comfy surrounding loungers with a book. The pool’s cosily ensconced within the jungle greenery and feels perfectly private… except for the odd monkey swinging from tree to tree.

Spa

There’s no spa as such on-site, but you can certainly book a Balinese massage or mani-pedi in the privacy of your suite.

Packing tips

This is your intimate home-from-home, so you can wear what you like, but if you’re susceptible to bug bites, perhaps err a little more towards covered up.

Also

The hotel isn’t wheelchair accessible.

Children

Welcome, but not particularly catered to.

Food and Drink

Photos The River House food and drink

Top Table

Eat on the balcony, in the garden, in your room… anywhere you like. Just pick a spot and your table will appear (and if you ask nicely, it might also be accompanied by candles and lanterns for extra-special evenings).

Dress Code

Formerly Sri Lanka’s hippie hangout, the southwest has upped the style stakes a bit in recently years: pack something chic alongside the bikinis.

Hotel restaurant

This atmospheric open-air restaurant overlooks the river and serves Sri Lankan delicacies, Indian curries and almost anything else you fancy: Chef Anuradha will (with a little notice) source fresh seafood and native veg to suit your taste.

Hotel bar

Who needs a bar when the ever-helpful staff is standing by to make you whatever you feel like sipping? Try the Caiepolanka cocktail, arak with ginger beer, ginger and lime.

Last orders

Dine from noon till 11pm.

Room service

Order anything you like from the hotel’s restaurant menu, 12 noon–11pm.

Location

Photos The River House location
Address
The River House
No 70, Uthamanyana Mawatha, Welagedara
Balapitiya
80550
Balapitiya
Sri Lanka

Planes

The nearest airport is Colombo’s Bandaranaike International Airport, a two-and-a-half-hour drive from the hotel, which is served by Sri Lankan Airlines, Emirates and British Airways, among others. Call our Smith24 Team on 03300 376 891 to arrange flights and transfers.

Trains

The nearest station is Ambalangoda, 3km from the hotel.

Automobiles

If you’re adventurous enough to drive yourself, from Balapitiya head towards Galle for 2.5km, pass the Balapitiya Bridge and keep an eye out for the sign on the right-hand side pointing you to the hotel. Once you get there, parking’s free.

Worth getting out of bed for

It’s a tiny riverside hideaway, but the River House can keep you entertained: you can borrow their kayaks and go for a gentle paddle along the river itself, for example, or if you’re after something a bit faster they’ve got a handy motorboat, too. The nearest swimmable beach is just a 15-minute tuk-tuk ride away (and you can borrow those on-site, too).

The main way you’ll be spending your day, though, is indulging in a decadent dose of sheer laziness. But if there’s anything special you’ve a hankering to do, then just say the word and the hotel staff will see what they can arrange… if yoga’s your thing (and in such a laid-back location, why wouldn’t it be?) an expert instructor will meet you whereever you choose in the grounds to put you through your poses. If that’s too much like hard work, take to your bed and let your massage therapist work their magic with ocean salts and virgin oils.

Reviews

Photos The River House reviews
Carey Jones

Anonymous review

To crib, somewhat poorly, from Walt Whitman: Sri Lanka is not particularly large, but it contains multitudes. After three weeks in the country, Mr Smith and I had clambered over ancient ruins and scaled vertigo-inducing mountains; sped through the brilliantly green hill country by tuk-tuk, and crossed it at a snail’s pace by train; spent days sunbathing with chilled coconut water in hand, and evenings stalking elephants in the wild. (And somewhere in there, he proposed, and luckily for the remainder of our holiday, I accepted; but that’s a story for another time.)

Which is to say: we’d seen beach Sri Lanka, historic Sri Lanka, mountainous-tea-plantation Sri Lanka. But the River House – shall we call it lush riverside Sri Lanka? – may have been our favourite of all.

The property itself helped, of course; I’m not sure a tent pitched in the nature preserve would’ve had quite the same effect. With five rooms on a sprawling property of frangipani trees and swaying palms, it feels less like a hotel and more like an awfully smart private home. And our room – the second-floor Menik Suite – must have been the smartest of all.

The room itself is elegant enough: a stately four-poster bed, antique carved wooden furniture, and enough space to turn cartwheels, which I certainly felt like doing. (About that bed: this being, well, a river house in the tropics, we’d recommend you request a mosquito net.) Double doors led onto an equally sized balcony – well, outdoor living room – with three seating areas, a dining table, a stocked minibar, and a tiled pool along its entire length. We’ve done balconies, we’ve done private pools; but a private pool on a balcony felt more decadent still.

With his unerring sense of what every occasion calls for, Mr Smith wasted no time in pouring two gin and tonics. (Having opted against malaria medication, we had a strict daily dose of quinine to maintain.) We sipped them from our pool, staring out onto the grounds and the river beyond. ‘I was going to put on some music,’ he mused, ‘but I’d rather just listen to the birds…’ easily half a dozen in continual chirp.

Feeling as if we should properly earn our second round, we took a kayak out onto the river itself for a sunset paddle, an awfully idyllic one; schools of silver fish jumped in high arcs in front of us while white herons glided slowly overhead. But our river trip early the next morning – we’d asked the hotel to arrange us a guide – proved a far superior nature excursion.

Winding up through the Madu Ganga, a legally protected nature reserve, we spotted monkeys and hanging fruit bats; snapped photos of traditional bamboo fish traps and skinny, single-paddled canoes; wove through the mangroves and for a time, glided upriver alongside a lurking crocodile. (‘Keep your arms inside the boat, please.’) We stopped off to see a local cinnamon farmer curling bark by hand, and a local temple where a wisecracking monk chanted while tying string around our wrists, in a ritual blessing our travels.

Our uncharacteristically early morning merited a huge breakfast upon return, perhaps the best we had in Sri Lanka: tangles of rice flour string hoppers and thin disks of flaky onion roti, served with intricately spiced curries and a peppery coconut-chilli sambol. To sip, king coconuts – still intact, their tops neatly lopped off with a straw to drink the water.

It’s easy to lose hours on the grounds at the River House, whether lounging on your own balcony or at their attractive, secluded pool. But nearing the end of our Sri Lanka trip, we wanted one last beach afternoon. Easily arranged: the hotel’s tuk-tuk shuttled us the 10 quick minutes to its beachfront sister resort. We took in a few hours of afternoon sun, breaking occasionally for a dive into the cool waves; at cocktail hour, a cinnamon-ginger-lemongrass iced tea so impressive that Mr Smith, a mixologist by trade, vowed to replicate it at home. 

With only a night remaining, we were reluctant to leave our balcony, though the open-air restaurant was perfectly pleasant. So our favourite waiter-butler, Lakmal, suggested we take a walk while he arranged dinner en suite. We passed the time sitting in the motorboat docked down at the waterfront, where just at sunset, fruit bats woke from their daytime slumber – the sort of bats with a half-metre wingspan, the sort actually shaped like bats. We watched as one, then 10, then hundreds, swooped across the lake. It’s an unmissable sight, thought I’d recommend the skittish (of which I am one) watch with a drink in hand.

Lakmal had a can’t-keep-this-secret-any-longer smile as he led us back to our room and threw open the doors to the balcony with pride. Fully merited pride. Candles and tea lights illuminated the space in a soft glow. Flower petals were not only strewn about the perimeter, but arranged into true flower art – patterns and spirals of tiny blossoms winding around the table and across the pool. It was a setting worthy of a proposal, or a Bachelor TV-show finale… or a breathlessly happy, newly engaged couple who squealed with delight (me) and clapped Lakmal on the shoulder (Mr Smith).

As the doors closed behind us, we did the only thing one does in that situation: cue up Van Morrison on the iPhone, put down the G&Ts, and dance a few songs in the flickering candlelight. I vaguely remember dinner, a classically Sri Lankan array of six excellent curries, and I’m sure there was more Tanqueray. But it’s hard to recall anything other than the glowing candles on our stunning balcony, the late-night swim that ensued, and a night that was beyond idyllic. 

The Guestbook

Whenever you book a stay at a Smith Hotel with us, we’ll invite you to review it when you get back. Read what other Smith members had to say in The River House’s Guestbook below.

We loved

We stayed at The River House back in March and I am still struggling to explain just how wonderful this hotel is. Hidden down the end of a dirt track in the middle of a nature reserve, this is truly a place for relaxation and luxury. There are too many good points to mention but a big part of our stay was how excellent the staff were – incredibly attentive and happy to help with anything without being overbearing at all. We stayed for a full week and combined lazy days by the pool (which we mostly had to ourselves due to the small number of rooms) with trips to their sister hotel Shinagawa Beach, and excursions organised by the hotel staff (the safari is definitely worth the early start and three hour car journey). Wildlife lovers will enjoy the many types of birds you can see from your garden, and most mornings whilst having breakfast the monkeys were having theirs in the trees above too! We both had such an amazing stay and will definitely be coming back to this beautiful hotel. Releasing turtles into the sea at sunset was an extraordinary experience, and only twenty minutes by tuk tuk from the hotel.

Don’t expect

As it's such a small hotel don't expect a big nightlife scene! If you want a bit more of a buzz in the evening and to be by the beach, you can go across to their sister hotel in a tuk tuk (about ten minutes drive). Also do let the staff know what you would like for dinner in advance if you have any preferences – understandably, they don't keep everything on the menu in stock at all times for just five rooms.

Rating

Stayed on 21 Mar 2017

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