The Lumiares

Set in the heart of the trendy Bairro Alto neighborhood in Lisbon, apartment-style stay the Lumiares is easily the most modern spot on the street. Even before we’d arrived, we felt the easygoing attitude that the hotel adopts – they’d sent us a detailed email outlining how to get to the stay from the airport. We’re fans of exploring local Metro systems, so Mr Smith and I hopped on the train from the airport and exited onto a festive square, decked out for the holidays, that was bustling with people. First things first: a very important pit stop on the way to the hotel at Manteigaria, a factory and bakery known for its mini custard pies that are classic Lisbon. Sweet treats secured, we came to the hotel’s cobblestone street – charming, but not easy to navigate with a rolling suitcase.

The sleek white exterior of the Lumiares was an unexpected contrast to the rest of the buildings around it, some of which even date back to before the Great Lisbon Earthquake of 1755. Once inside, top-staffer Margarida warmly welcomed us and gave us a rundown of the amenities, which included breakfast at the rooftop restaurant each morning, and a free minibar in the room with water, wine and beer (sadly, the water being the only one that would be restocked free of charge). We were almost to the elevator when Margarida ran up to us waving a voucher for a free bottle of wine at the restaurant. We wondered, had our covert reviewing mission been rumbled? We decided no, and that their service must just always be this top notch. 

The rooms, while modern, still nodded to traditional Portuguese culture, even beyond what was immediately obvious, like the woven rug hanging on the wall that was made by craftsmen in the Alentejo region. They try to source locally as much as possible, with the furniture being designed and made in Porto, as well as the beautifully packaged soaps and toiletries, and even the leather informational brochure was hand-crafted in a tiny workshop right in Lisbon. After settling in and enjoying a glass of the minibar wine, we walked just a few blocks up to Páteo for dinner. After, with stomachs full of giant red shrimp, razor clams, and Portuguese cheeses, we set out to explore the neighborhood. 

There are several venues close to the hotel where you can see Fado performances (traditional Portuguese folk music). We popped into a couple that were recommended by a friend of mine, only to learn that many required that you dine there until a certain time of night. Excited to see less touristy nightlife, we explored down the street until we found a place that looked more up our alley, and somehow thumbs-upped our way into a private birthday party for a local DJ at a spot called ZDB (Galeria Zé dos Bois), which we later learned was one of the best places around. With multiple rooms starring different DJs, €2 beers and a lively crowd, it was ideal for seeing how the locals party till late.
 
The next day we set out to the Belém Antiques and Crafts Market. Although a quick train ride away, we opted to hire two Lime scooters to ride along the river for a breezy 40 minutes. A few souvenirs later, we took a taxi to LX Factory to explore and get acquainted with the artist community before grabbing dinner in the Brooklyn-esque arts district. On the way back we rummaged around in a few record shops, ones known for great selections of Brazilian and African cuts. On our last full day, we took the ferry to Almada – apparently the best seafood is on that side of the water. The seaside restaurant Atira-te ao Rio did indeed have the best seafood we tasted during the trip. After returning to the city and walking through the neighborhoods (be prepared for lots of stairs and cobblestones), we enjoyed a light dinner at the Lumiares’ rooftop restaurant, which was privy to truly breathtaking views of the city from its balcony. Eager to test out the ‘spa’ half of the property before our departure, Mr Smith and I made the most of our last morning by booking massages – the perfect end to our luxurious stay at the Lumiares.