Rules are made to be broken at aptly named boutique hotel the Bohemian: sweeping aside all tropical-island tropes, this urban bolthole of four apartment-style stays cherrypicks the best of Brutalist architecture, pared-back industrial chic and opulent decor to create a unique hideaway of home-from-home suites at the heart of Canggu’s coastal village. Each suite has its own tropical garden, ample lounge space and a kitchen-diner, plus a private plunge pool. A staffed front desk and attentive housekeeping team ensure hotel levels of service with your licensed-to-chill digs.
Double rooms from £183.97 (IDR3,600,000), including tax at 10 per cent.
Rates include housekeeping twice daily, but exclude breakfast, available to order for delivery to your suite (from IDR250,000/around $17).
The Bohemian can arrange a day’s chauffeured car hire from around $64 for eight hours (you’ll need to book at least 24 hours ahead). And you can book a floating breakfast (at extra cost) to enjoy in your private plunge pool.
At the hotel
Front desk, private parking. In rooms: fully equipped kitchen, smart phone with local SIM card, smart TV with cable channels and Netflix, smart speaker, Nespresso coffee machine, free tea and coffee, free bottled water, minibar, Sensatia bath products.
Our favourite rooms
All of the Bohemian’s four suites offer apartment-style stays with hotel frills: the building’s Brutalist features and warehouse-like proportions are flaunted with painted brick walls, tiled floors and floor-to-ceiling windows – a fitting backdrop for eye-catching paintings and sculptural details, sumptuous velvet upholstery and statement lighting. Each suite comes with a private plunge pool in a planted-for-privacy courtyard garden. Choosing a pool loft over a pool suite is a whole other storey…
Each suite has a private plunge pool at ground level, around four-and-a-half square metres, surrounded by leafy planting and outdoor lounge seating shaded by a parasol.
There’s no spa at the Bohemian, but in-room massages or couple’s treatments can be arranged, as can private yoga sessions (with the option to borrow a mat).
Complement your bohemian surroundings with loose-fitting linens, the floatiest of dresses and artist-worthy jewels, featherlight shawls and silk scarves.
Unfortunately suites are not wheelchair-accessible.
Jl. Pantai Batu Bolong No. 21
Kecamatan Kuta Utara
The Bohemian is at the heart of Canggu, a village resort on Bali’s surf-lapped south-west coast in Indonesia and only a 30-minute drive north of Seminyak.
Ngurah Rai international airport is 40 minutes by road from the Bohemian. The hotel can arrange fast-track VIP airport arrival from IDR700,000, as well as private transfers from IDR450,000 (less than $30) each way.
You’re not likely to need wheels of your own to get around, but if you’re wedded to driving, the hotel has a (free) private car park.
The Bohemian can arrange a day’s chauffeured car hire from around $64 for eight hours (you’ll need to book at least 24 hours ahead).
Worth getting out of bed for
Once a relatively undeveloped coastal village in quiet contrast to nearby Seminyak and known only outside Bali to surfers, Canggu has been growing (in appeal and development) over the past decade or so: although still a coastal village – with a laid-back atmosphere and enough surf-lapped sandy beaches for all – its choice of bars, restaurants and upscale stays testifies to its popularity as a south-coast seductress – and a stay at the Bohemian puts you in pole position to enjoy the fruits of this evolution. Barley-sand beaches include Canggu and Echo Beach; Batu Bolong and Berawa have the most beginner-friendly breaks if you want to try surfing. If you prefer service and sustenance with your sunlounger, beach clubs such as Finns, Atlas Beach Fest and La Brisa are open to day guests. And where there are surfers, yoga is sure to follow, as Canggu’s abundance of yoga studios suggests – among them, the Practice, Ecosfera, Serenity and Samadi. Beyond the in-suite therapies the hotel is happy to arrange, stellar spas on your doorstep include Gold Dust, Spring, Amo and Espace Canggu. Art lovers in search of souvenir finds will want to check out local galleries including the exhibition space at Crate café and gallery, Sound Vision Library by Rostarr in Jalan Batu Mejan, as well as long-established Nyaman gallery in Seminyak. Tick a canter in the surf off your bucket list with horse riding along the beach. For a leisurely foray into the serene countryside, the Bohemian can arrange Vespa scooter hire (exclusively for suite guests) or chauffeured car hire, which you can put to good use touring the rice paddies around Seseh and Pererenan.
At Mason in Canggu, there’s a lot vying for your attention: a fairy-lit terrace, a busy open kitchen of chefs tending to wood-fired prime cuts and succulent, seared seafood and a sesh-worthy cocktail list – not to mention an entire menu section devoted to pickles, cheese and cured meats. Overlooking Echo Beach, La Brisa (meaning sea breeze) is a terraced restaurant made from reclaimed fishing-boat timber, shaded by swaying palms, and open from breakfast until late. Its broad menu includes heavyweights such as slow-cooked lamb shoulder and pan-seared fillet of barramundi, but it’s in light plates – salads, pizza fine, picnic boards of cured meats and artisan cheeses – that this beach-club-style restaurant excels. Sunday’s weekly food market brings a throng of stallholders and hungry shoppers, so if you’re thinking of Sunday brunch, make sure you book ahead. Aficionados of the poke bowl should make a beeline for Moana, a thatch-roofed Polynesian restaurant specialising in fish, where the sashimi and tartare are as prettily plated as they are fresh.
Book a table for weekend brunch at Sensorium Bali – a light-filled, pale-tabled café-restaurant where the menu is Australian-meets-Asian and the coffee and pastries are as good as the ramen, eggs and quesadillas. Restaurant, deli and gelateria Cibo! serves casual Italian fare prepared on the premises using seasonal ingredients: handmade pasta, pillowy focaccia, flavoursome cold cuts and artisanal gelato are masterminded by Italian head chef Diego and team.
Craft cocktails and Asian/Japanese small plates come together at Club Soda – the Canggu outpost of popular Ubud restaurant Locavore. Open from 12 noon until 10pm daily, beach club Café del Mar brings a slice of Ibiza to the Canggu coast with cocktails and DJ sets washed down with sea views.
Every hotel featured is visited personally by members of our team, given the Smith seal of approval, and then anonymously reviewed. As soon as our reviewers have returned from this coastal hotel on Bali and unpacked their Balinese coffee beans and silk batik, a full account of their idyllic island break will be with you. In the meantime, to whet your wanderlust, here's a quick peek inside the Bohemian in Canggu…
It takes confidence and panache to come to town, assess the palm-thatched competition and take your hotel in an entirely different direction… Kudos, then, to the Bohemian for its fittingly freewheeling chutzpah: this clutch of condo-like suites in the heart of Canggu’s coastal village is fashionably urban. Canggu and Batu Bolong beaches are a short cab or bike ride away, but there’s no hint of beach-club rusticity in the hotel’s richly ornamented interiors (deftly balanced by a stripped-back Brutalist building). Instead, stepping into your one-bedroom apartment at the Bohemian is to be transported to a stylishly overhauled Manhattan loft, whose owner – if the mural in the bathroom, abstract paintings and designer lighting are anything to go by – clearly has an eye for fashion and a penchant for art. Service here, too, has a Manhattan-like slickness, including housekeeping twice daily, options for breakfast and grocery deliveries, in-room massages and private yoga classes. Your secluded garden, however, is distinctly Balinese – shaded by towering tropical plants surrounding a private plunge pool. It’s a restful spot to come home to after a day at the beach, a wander around town or a trip out to the countryside around Canggu. (Seminyak’s shops and restaurants are only half-an-hour away, too.)