Raas Devigarh

After six hours in the car, stopping only once for a quick chai, on pulling up to boutique Udaipur hideaway Raas Devigarh we felt like two little kids arriving at Disneyland. Of course it helps that the regal stay does look completely magical at night, its towering facade all lit up and sparkly, but also, we knew what waited within after a quick browse on Raas’s Instagram geotag. 

Our driver took a few goes to find the entrance. Hidden away down a very unassuming drive, behind an ambiguous gate, we thought we were probably lost again until we saw the well-lit fortress glittering against the darkened Aravalli Hills and an army of staff waiting to help us with our bags, guide us to our room and offer us our welcome drinks – we opted for more chai, naturally. (In Rajasthan, there’s no such thing as too much chai.) We arrived late at night so just had time to drop our bags, marvel at the grandeur of our marble bathroom, and grab a quick dinner on the lantern-lit restaurant terrace, before calling it a night, and jumping into our supremely comfortable super-king-size bed. 

After exploring Rajasthan’s busy cities, Raas Devigarh is the ideal place to totally chill out. Located just under an hour’s drive north of Udaipur, the former fortress is set among the blissfully calm fields of the Aravalli Hills. It’s a fine old place to spend a couple of days relaxing, lapping up the sweeping valley views, feasting like a king, lounging in the open courtyards, and drifting into a state of calm in the Ila spa. If you want to stretch your legs, the charming village of Delwara, celebrated for its ancient Jain temples,  is just a 10-minute walk away. Clean and contemporary interiors are stripped back in sophisticated style throughout, and a largely white palette peppered with highlights of silver and gold prevails. The property is a web of courtyards and terraces and narrow staircases that connect the restaurant to the lounge and the rooms, which are scattered across the gardens. 

Our Garden Suite was a tranquil haven in Zen-inducing cream hues, with splashes of natural colour, bamboo blinds, pale marble floors, and a palm-tree-embossed feature wall. Our roomy green-marble bathroom was a glamorous space, well stocked with products; however, the pièce de résistance was the most marvellous sunken marble bath tub I’ve ever seen, so momentous it fitted the two us side-by-side. Those with money to burn can upgrade to a Palace Suite for an even more indulgent Devigarh experience, complete with butlers on call and private balconies with sweeping valley views.  

There’s no shortage of places to relax here, in fact, you could probably stay a week and never sit in the same spot twice. Soak up the sun on the ivory-hued-leather sunloungers that surround the pool, snooze on a shady day-bed in the afternoon, read your book up on the panoramic roof terrace, or, if you’re in the market for a total reset, book in for a treatment at Ila Spa. I’ve got to say, I’m too much of a fidget to spend time being massaged into oblivion, but even popping my head in made me feel 90 per cent calmer. So, I can only imagine how blissfully tranquilising the treatments can be.

Rise early to catch the beautiful morning light on the pool terrace – without a doubt the highlight of a stay at Raas Devigarh. The sun rises up over the mountains, casting the whole place in a peachy hue. Start your day with a coffee and a book, before a refreshing morning dip, and then eat. Breakfast is served in the restaurant, which is located up high, giving the most magical views of the surroundings, shrouded in misty morning fog. 

Food here is excellent. Chefs cook up masala dosas and puri bhaji to start your day. Some mornings, we got greedy and ordered seconds. You quickly grow very accustomed to curry for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and quite frankly, I couldn’t get enough. If you are looking for a break from curry, curry and more curry, you’ll appreciate the dinner menu’s international choices, worldly dishes such as mozzarella and tomato salad, pad thai, and roasted chicken with herbed potatoes. 

If, like me, you suck at spending more than a day by the pool, Raas Devigarh offers many curated excursions, including a guided tour of the temples of Delwara and a day-long adventure to Chittorgarh to learn more about Rajasthani history. If you’re feeling independent, book a taxi and head into Udaipur. It’s only a 45-minute drive away and it’s definitely worth dedicating at least a day to. Soak up the city’s chaos, see the City Palace by the beautiful lake, and head to the bazaars to haggle for colourful garms that make great gifts to take home, before calling it a day and heading back to divine Devigarh for the night and maybe even another cup of chai.