Palma Riad

On a sunny autumn afternoon, I stepped in from one of Palma’s honey-hued streets into Palma Riad’s elegant reception. It was like entering a different world, with a hushed and theatrical atmosphere created by plush velvet curtains, dark walls and the soft glow from the candelabras. It’s an intimate hotel with only 11 rooms centred round a stunning courtyard that is made grander with a huge mirror reflecting a bubbling fountain and a dramatic stone fireplace lined with Moroccan artefacts. My mum waved down from our courtyard-facing balcony, and I made my way up to the room, where the sumptuous decor continues. Everything is grand in size, from the king-size bed to the gilt mirror that turns into a TV (ideal for watching the England rugby match that coincided with our visit) to the humongous hammam-style baths in the art deco tiled bathroom, complete with bronze his-and-hers sinks and a rainfall shower. The bath is so big, it takes an age to fill, but it's worth it to soak away in your own tiled cavern and use the bath salts and toiletries. In keeping with the riad’s theme, these have been decanted into glass bottles handmade and sourced from the souks in Morocco.

We visited in September when the British weather had turned, so we spent every moment possible lounging in the sun on our huge futon on the balcony, reading and playing cards with the fountain bubbling away below. There's also a small terrace on the fourth floor with rooftop views if you're staying in a room without a balcony. A little tube of suncream, placed on our pillow at turndown, was a nice touch for basking in the Mallorcan sun. 

A real pull for this hotel is its location, bang in the centre of Palma; just a few steps from the main promenade and cathedral, but tucked down a quiet side street so there's no external noise. It’s a prime spot for eating and drinking in the city’s best restaurants. On Sunday lunchtime, we climbed up through the streets to La Cuadra del Maño, a no-frills steak restaurant with friendly service where staff laugh and joke with punters. The plancha grill in the corner is where the magic happens, and the menu chalked up on the board highlights the cuts of the day. We ordered a picaña complete with corn-on-the-cob and buttery jacket potatoes, and there was so much meat we had to double check we'd only ordered one portion. But my mum and I can always find room for more, and later that evening we popped into one of our Palma favourites, La Rosa Vermutería, where we sat at the bar sipping on homemade vermouth and grazing on anchovies, croquetas and garlic prawns. 

Back at the hotel, I’d recommend a night cap in the striking bar, lined with backlit bottles that the mixologists shake and stir into premium cocktails. Flickering candles and velvet curtains provide a romantic backdrop for a special evening. 

Breakfast the next day was served in the central courtyard. We settled into rattan chairs and my mum ordered espresso, while I opted for a glass of local cava, all included in the room rate. We rotated trips to the Continental buffet of smoked salmon, cured meats, cheese, fruit, pastries and build-your-own granola pots. I made up my favourite pan con tomate breakfast from the jar of smashed tomato and fresh-from-the-toaster sourdough. This was followed by a choice of prepared-to-order dishes, including avocado on toast and eggs all ways you could imagine. 

After lingering over another coffee, we said goodbye to the friendly, professional staff and made our way to the train station, only a 10-minute walk away, ready for our next adventure in the mountains, but still dreaming of our perfect little Marrakech-meets-Mallorca hideaway.