Palazzo Venart

We arrived in Venice, for our two-night break in Palazzo Venart hot and travel-worn (Mr Smith had flown back from a trip to Vietnam just 24 hours earlier). We perked up on leaping into a buffed-to-a-shine, wooden water taxi – reminiscent of the glorious mahogany Riva yachts that zip across the northern Italian lakes – which would transport us into another world.

Our captain expertly maneuvered us into a narrow, two-lane boat highway, skillfully overtaking laggards wherever possible. We powered towards the emergent Venetian skyline – thrilling at the city’s ancient beauty – and a few minutes later, we bobbed into the main stream of the Grand Canal.

Bam. There we were, in the middle of a veritable feast of architecture.

Our young, tanned and confident helmsman madly gesticulated to a local to ‘get a move on’; the completely unresponsive idler went about his business at sunset speed. All was at it should be: we were on Venice time.

The water taxi (or motoscafo, as the locals say) is not cheap at around €120 an hour, but worth the wow factor if this is your first visit. We were deposited on the hotel jetty and met by a smiling receptionist who escorted us through the garden and into the elegant lobby. The hotel manager, Angelo, appeared to oversee our check-in and warmly welcome us in his deep, gravelly voice.

Palazzo Venart, a 16th-century minibreak-sized manse, which has been lovingly restored over the past two years, opened its doors in the summer of 2016. It comes highly recommended.

Our Prestige Room (one of just 18 rooms and suites) was cool (certainly no clattering air-conditioning unit here) and extravagantly decorated with velvet curtains, wood beams crafted from parts of the Doge’s barge and silk wall coverings. It overlooked the peaceful internal courtyard, which had a gently trickling fountain, orange trees, figs and a carpet of white flowers.

Our bathroom – integrated into the bedroom – was kitted out with bath products designed in collaboration with fashion house Etro and the Scent Company.

The excitement was too much – we sank into the soft bed for some brief shut-eye, as church bells softly pealed in the distance.

The same friendly receptionist gave us excellent recommendations for local restaurants – we guessed she was new to the job, but nevertheless eager and helpful. Staff work hard here: the same professional and discreet team looked after us morning, noon and night for our entire stay.

Breakfast is held either in the shaded internal courtyard or indoors. It’s a highly choreographed à la carte affair – no buffet in sight. To start, a slice of baguette with butter, fruit and of pastries, omelettes with tomato – everything we ate was fresh and flavourful, and nothing was too much trouble. Even when we materialised five minutes before breakfast was due to finish, we were well fed.

This is the Santa Croce district, which is very peaceful, yet a short walk from the lively San Polo area (where you’ll find the Rialto, Basilica and other star sights) – although, you’re rarely far from anything in Venice.

With no traffic jostling for street space, Venice is a pavement-pounder’s heaven. There are unspoken rules for all watercraft – vaporetti weave their way from side to side, carrying tourists and Venetians alike; but here gondolas seem to be king. Ask reception for an ACTV pass so you can hop on and off – the San Stae vaporetto stop is right next door to the palazzo.

And so, to the most important aspect of Italian (and particularly Venetian) life: the food… Palazzo Venart houses the Glam restaurant, which is helmed by the much venerated, two Michelin-star winning chef, Enrico Bartolini. It’s a must-try –  but avoid our rookie error of munching on minibar pistachios and then ordering room service (wine with a plate of soppressata-style salami) just before dining.

Still, we powered through, ordering the eight-course degustation menu. We weren’t prepared for the prelude of 10 amuse-bouches that arrived, but we finished every last morsel. The knowledgeable and likeable sommelier expertly paired our feast with delicious wine after delicious wine. For me, the delicate and beautifully composed rabbit ballotine with girolles was the standout dish. Enrico, clearly delighted to have an audience for his artistic creations, gave us his full attention for nearly two hours.

Venice had been at the top of my travel wish-list for so many years, and after finally visiting it did not disappoint. Go, and soon – as one of the most visited cities in Europe (with around 20 million people passing through in a year), the authorities are considering limiting the number of tourists. But, in the meantime, book between June to September – its busiest season – and discover the best of this beguiling spot. Just be sure to rest your head and feed your soul at Palazzo Venart.