Through the looking glass
A stroll from San Marco
Get this when you book through us:
A bottle of prosecco and a selection of cicchetti (Venetian snacks) made by the chef
Rates from (inc tax)$254.46 If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 21 days. Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (21EUR), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.
If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 21 days.
Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (21EUR), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.
Through the looking glass
A stroll from San Marco
Get this when you book through us:
A bottle of prosecco and a selection of cicchetti (Venetian snacks) made by the chef
22, including one suite and six suite apartments.
12 noon, but flexible until 3pm if the room’s available. Earliest check-in, 2pm.
Double rooms from $254.46 (€234), excluding tax at 10 per cent. Please note the hotel charges an additional local city tax of €5.00 per person per night on check-out.
If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 21 days. Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (EUR257.40), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.
Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (EUR257.40), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.
Rates usually include Continental breakfast (€19 a person), with juice, hot drinks and a basket of freshly made bread and pastries; the à la carte breakfast menu includes the likes of eggs benedict and French toast with seasonal berries, from €14.
Palazzina G guests can take a ride on the hotel's luxury mahogany boat through the canals into the lagoon. Staff can arrange a host of authentic Venetian experiences – from insider city tours to cooking classes from a countess.
Members- and residents-only Krug champagne lounge; luxury mahogany boat; private landing pier; roof terrace (open in season); free WiFi throughout; full concierge service. In rooms: Starck fixtures and fittings, backlit mirror walls, programmable lighting, in-mirror LCD TV, iPod dock (with bathroom speaker system), minibar (with decent-sized bottles, snacks and seduction kits).
The Junior Suite Plus category has a terrace overlooking the city’s rooftops. There’s an exclusive feel to the third-floor Suite: you can only get there by private elevator. Its terrace has sweeping Venice vistas, and you can get an eyeful of cityscape from the bed. Grassi’s smallest rooms, the Superiors, aren’t spacious, but the pale colour scheme and hall-of-mirrors effect gives the impression of size.
Mrs Smiths, free up some handbag space and leave the compacts behind: there are 286 mirrors in this hotel. And remember to pack your most comfortable shoes: Venice is a city made for strolling.
Check-in can be on-boat, in your room or in the lounge bar.
Well-behaved dogs are welcome for €50 a night. See more pet-friendly hotels in Venice.
Cots are free for under-3s, but extra beds for older kids cannot be provided. A local nanny can be called upon for babysitting services (€25 an hour).
People-watch from a perch at the bar, or sit at the long table by the show kitchen to watch the chefs at work.
Rich, ducal fabrics: velvet, cashmere and damask.
Meals are served pretty much anywhere, but the main dining area is in PG’s, where there’s an open kitchen. Paolo Businaro is the man behind the menu, which places simplicity and the quality of ingredients above fussiness and show-off flourishes.
PG’s is a mood-lit mahogany cocktail den of exposed brick, velvet and leather. Lamps resemble gorgon heads; 15th-century pillars prop up the bars, and candles flicker in glimmering Murano-glass holders. Suite Apartment guests also get access to the Krug Lounge, a sultry, scarlet-carpeted ‘champagnerie’ with animal-shaped leather stools.
Breakfast can be served at any time, and lunch dishes are available from midday until midnight, when the bar shuts. Dinner is 7pm until 10pm.
Anything the hotel’s kitchens can produce is available until midnight, after which a smaller, night menu kicks in. You can have food and drink brought to you anywhere you wish.
Venice’s Marco Polo Airport is 16km away. This bustling mini-hub handles a range of flights from Europe, the Middle East and the US – and it's easy to reach the city from here. Approach Venice by crossing the lagoon: board an Alilaguna ferry (www.alilaguna.it) at the airport harbour – the Linea Arancio (orange line) takes you to the Sant'Angelo stop, just a few minutes' walk from the hotel, in around 40 minutes. Buy tickets ahead online, or from a ticket machine in the Arrivals hall. Alternatively, take a water taxi to the San Samuele stop, just a hundred yards from the hotel entrance - a private water taxi can be arranged at the airport for €120 for up to four people; or the hotel can arrange private luxury transfers on request (€180 each way: a luxury car transfer between the airport and the harbour, then a private water taxi). You might also consider arriving into Treviso Airport (www.trevisoairport.it), just 26km away, with a direct bus (www.atvo.it) link to Piazzale Roma in the city.
There are two main stations – Santa Lucia on the Canal, and Mestre on the mainland – both have excellent links across the country and beyond, via Trenitalia (www.trenitalia.com), including Rome, Milan and Paris; Verona is just one hour away. The Santa Lucia train station is 2.5km from the hotel: a water taxi can set sail to here (for €85), and from the station you can catch a vaporetto – on line two, to the San Samuele stop – to the hotel.
Unless you want to lock them up on an artificial island or long-stay carpark, leave the cars at home. The hotel is in the centre of Venice, where waterways rule, not roads.
You're perfectly positioned here, yards from the San Samuele vaporetto stop and an enjoyable stroll from both the Rialto (to your north) and the Piazza San Marco (to your east). Right next door to the hotel, the neoclassical Palazzo Grassi has been transformed into a contemporary exhibition space by Gucci/Christie’s billionaire François Pinault (palazzograssi.it). His own extraordinary collection is housed here and in the Punta della Dogana on the opposite bank. The 13th-century Santo Stefano church is in the neighbourhood, too. Short on time and no idea where to begin? Cross the canal via the Ponte dell'Accademia for a whirlwind art tour of Dorsoduro: the jewels of the Venetian Renaissance are displayed in the Accademia (including Giorgione's moving La Veueve); and a cherry-picked selection of modern masterpieces (including Picassos, Pollocks, Mondrians and more) illuminate Peggy Guggenheim's intimate former home at the Peggy Guggenheim Collection.
Three minutes away, Bacaro da Fiore (+39 041 523 5310; www.dafiore.it) is a traditional trattoria that doubles as a cicchetteria, serving up snack-size portions of fried fish and veg. It’s a 15-minute walk to low-key-but-lovely Osteria di Santa Marina (+39 041 528 5239; www.osteriadisantamarina.it). Try the turbot ravioli in shellfish broth, scallop risotto and ice-cream macaroons. Take a boat out to Mazzorbo to dine on the freshest seasonal produce at Venissa Ristorante Ostello (+39 041 527 2281; www.venissa.it). The estate makes wine for its well-stocked cellar. For excellent Venetian food off the tourist-trodden path, try Osteria l’Orto dei Mori (+39 041 524 3677; www.osteriaortodeimori.com). Head next door to the Palazzo Grassi Café (+39 041 240 1337) for lunch by the canal.
Venice: the land of elaborate masks, crimson coats, gilded gondolas, and most importantly, love. Mask? Check. Red mac? Sure. Gondola? Yessir. Love? Pass. I’ve got a 6’2”, baseball-capped, bearded, tattooed friend called Gabriel along for the ride.
Adventure is clearly on its way: we catch the auspicious sight of Fabio Capello swaggering onto our plane, flaunting the kind of grace and nonchalance Italian men have finely tuned over the past two millennia. We, meanwhile, display the kind of hungover, sleepless, dirty-trousered allure the British have so faultlessly perfected.
From Venice airport, our senses are bombarded: the heat (despite predictions of rain from the BBC’s weather website), the smell (that of sea that’s graduated from finishing school) and the boats (which hook themselves into your memory banks, labelled ‘Lucky little blighters’).We approach the gondoliers as they smoke and chat, each plying their trade in signature style, and we pick one. We follow our man as he walks past a succession of marvellously crafted wooden boats until stopping at his vessel: what a beaut. Sitting on the seats in the back instantly gives us – or indeed anyone in possession of a pair of sunglasses – the look of a Fellini star.
Such an introduction to this northern city is awesome. Venice is magnificent. The ages-old architecture inspires a feeling of being suspended in a lost time, as though you are travelling through thousands of photographs of somewhere incomprehensible. A city built in the sea! There is no ‘popping across the road’ here, or ‘Let’s quickly jump on the back of the bike’, or even ‘Just wait for the green man’ – this is a watery city for the wanderer and the drifter. Which suits these flâneurs just fine.
As we float up to the steps of the Palazzina Grassi, towards a black-glass entrance crowned with a bull and a golden mask, it clicks that our adventure has only just begun. The doors pull back and we are met by an incredibly courteous and well-dressed man who magics away our bags and gently gestures us into the glossy reception of this Philippe Starck stay. The mask lives up to its symbolism, conjuring an atmosphere of secrecy yet warmth, like the burrow of a kleptomaniac rabbit. We shuffle through to Krug lounge for a glass of champagne and find a low-lit, alluring room full of objets d’art all laced with mysticism and charm. We sit back and soak it in.
Bubbles sipped, we follow the concierge to a mirrored lift, to be escorted to our room. He opens the door to 623, where another surprise awaits. The clandestine mood of the reception area has been swapped for a white brilliance that rivals a set from Kubrick’s Space Odyssey. Our boudoir is seemingly a heavenly mirage: bed, carpets and walls are all white, the table, cupboards and television mirrored and the windows tinted a warm, light pink. There is a powerful sense of calm.
We turn to each other and laugh. We open cabinets, switch on the TV and marvel at its disappearance when we turn it back off; we listen to music through invisible speakers hidden throughout. Finally, we pull up the blinds to find our own balcony, with tables, deckchairs and huge chess pawns, as well as a fantastic view of Venice’s windows and rooftops. After an hour of circling our room and picture-taking, we decide, reluctantly, it is time to roam.
The hotel is positioned on a distinctly Venetian passageway that leads onto a cobbled street. From here you can easily trail signs to all the main sights. We are never further than a 10-minute walk from the tick-off-the-list landmarks. Our first ramble through the city quickly deposits us at the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, where our breath is stolen by works by Duchamp, Picasso and Mondrian. Then we amble to St Mark’s Square, which is just how I had visualised it. Correttos sipped at Caffè Florian, live renditions of Italian folk songs listened to, and spaghetti slurped on the Grand Canal, we settle back to watch boats of the glitterati and Cincinnati persuasion pass by.
Over the weekend, our hotel becomes our home, and a wonderful place to pitstop for a shot or two of absinthe before heading back out again into what we’ve dubbed ‘the land of the Minotaur’. At night, we head to PG's, the hotel’s restaurant, for dinner and find it transformed from its daytime serenity into an exciting, bustling, sceney spot.
Surveying the Venetians and tourists happily drinking and eating within PG’s sultry nightclubby clutches, it is easy to see why Johnny Depp took such a liking to this special place. After incredible Mediterranean cooking delivered with Asian precision, care Matteo Panfilio, we while away our evenings drinking in the bar.
Waking up on the morning of our departure, there is a feeling of disbelief that this Venetian weekend has even happened at all. As we close the door on our white wonderland and tiptoe into the ornate splendour of Palazzina Grassi’s lobby for the last time, I know we are saying farewell to an extraordinary hotel in a unique city. Gabriel and I agreed we’ll be back – next time with our Mrs Smiths.
Everything about it! The hotel was in a really quiet street but close enough to walk everywhere. The perfect mix for us. The staff were all super friendly and helpful, they gave us great restaurant recommendations. The room was gorgeous. The breakfast and restaurant had a lovely atmosphere and was delicious. We would certainly stay here again. The Riviera Restaurant in Dorsoduro was excellent – the perfect spot for a romantic meal.
To be disappointed!
The location, the breakfasts, the stylish rooms (Attic suite) and bar! The cleanliness and the fact it's a small boutique style. Water taxis can be expensive, but we took one to Hotel Cipriani where we had a meal and it was a special night!
A view over the canal unless you upgrade.
The style of the rooms and attention to detail - attentive and personable hotel staff - private terrace an absolute must! Perfect base location for exploring the city.
Honestly nothing - met expectations.
The staff are amazingly helpful and knowledgable. Great location. Gorgeous cosy rooms. Loved the Guggenheim. Also Cips restaurant across the bay from San Marcos for incredible food with the best views.
Amazing views of the canal.
Location, friendly staff, stylish rooms, amazing breakfast. Prepare yourself for very expensive drinks in most prominent cafes/bars. Once you accept the prices, seek out a spot for people-watching whilst enjoying a glass of something cold. We'd recommend the terrace at the Hotel Monaco, overlooking the gondola 'cab rank'.
To see much of the Grand Canal, despite its location on its banks (unless you've paid for a room overlooking it).
The flamboyant bar with its creative decor and the feeling of space in the bedroom - an optical illusion from all of those mirrors! Best advice: find your own restaurants by stumbling across them. Walk for miles in the morning, take a long lunch and then get the water bus back to the hotel.
Warm, pampering service. It's to the point and efficient.
We loved everything about this hotel, the decor, the ambiance, the food, the service and the location. It was perfect for us and met our needs totally. We didn't think anything could be better.
All all expectations were fulfilled.
The bed, it was lovely and comfortable. We loved the cafes in the nearest square.
Much cupboard or drawer space as none
The location....perfect for getting out and exploring the city and the staff who are super friendly. Get the hotel to organise a boat tour - a perfect way to see the whole city.
Loads of space...the rooms are small but perfectly appointed.
The hotel design was beautiful but accessible, the team were helpful and discreet at the same time, the location was central but tucked away. Extensive hotel menu. 9/10
Venetian grandeur - this is a modern take on Venetian design and hospitality
Hotel personnel were excellent.
It is not a hotel for children.
Quality hotel, good service and great location.
Useful wash basins! Stark design at its best.
Great room, with enough space, terrific amenities and service! The breakfast every morning was delicious and one morning we had it up on their little patio outside, which was lovely. This was a great location, a little bit off the beaten path, in a good way -- not so chaotic right out your door, with some great little design shops right on the block and a water taxi dock right around the corner!
Not a huge lobby.
Location was spot on, the hotel itself was lovely, the staff were very polite and attentive food was exceptional! Nine out of 10.
I'm nitpicking here now but a few things that could be improved IMO: The room we stayed in had very little storage space to hang your clothes (1 very tiny wardrobe albeit a cool one), could of done with a chest of draws or something, the room had the space! The only other thing is the TV channels, there was BBC News in English and that was it! 5 Star hotel you'd expect a selection of channels, not that you spend much time watching TV!
Incredible location on the Grand Canal - had Johnny Depp's room, with lots of style and the food and service were outstanding :)