Tuscany, Italy

Monteverdi

Rates from (ex tax)$632.17

Price information

If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 21 days.

Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (EUR590.00), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.

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Style

Mellow mediaeval village

Setting

Colourful Castiglioncello

WINNER: BEST HOTEL RESTAURANT – SMITH HOTEL AWARDS 2015

Monteverdi
hotel has mediaeval charm by the village-load: cobbled streets, a tiny church, a sociable enoteca and a peaceful pool set in fragrant herb gardens. The air of serene rusticity continues in the spa, which offers traditional Tuscan pampering. Holidaying historians will be pleased to know that there’s even the ruins of a 12th-century castle. Rooms are decorated with rustic romance – elegant four posters and rich paints in herb and flower hues – and some of Italy’s best winelands beckon.

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A glass of prosecco and a selection of local cheeses and meats at Enoteca

Facilities

Photos Monteverdi facilities

Need to know

Rooms

12 rooms, including six suites. There are also three self-catering villas (a two-bedroom, a three-bedroom and one with six bedrooms).

Check–Out

If staying in the hotel: 11am, but flexible, subject to availability; check-in 4pm. If staying in a villa: check-out is 10am, check-in 3pm.

Rates

Double rooms from $632.17 (€536), excluding tax at 10 per cent. Please note the hotel charges an additional local city tax of €1.00 per person per night on check-out.

Price information

If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 21 days.

Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (EUR590.00), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.

More details

Rates usually include a generous Continental breakfast.

Also

Have a yoga class (€40 a person) in the herb gardens. Sant'Andrea church comes alive with the sound of music in regular music concerts; the Incontri in Terra di Siena festival, of which the hotel owner is a patron, occasionally hosts performances in the hotel's grounds.

At the hotel

Spa, gardens, gym, library, stash of CDs and DVDs, Wii consoles (on request), free WiFi throughout. In rooms: flatscreen TVs, iPad (on request), locally made bath products. Villas have kitchenettes. Only the Sant' Andrea and Aenas suites have in-room air-conditioning, but portable units are available for other categories on request; the hilltop hotel gets enough of a natural breeze that air-conditioning isn't needed through most of the hotel.

Our favourite rooms

Do you want a romantic private garden, a supply of logs or your own wood-burning fireplace? Book your spacious Suite accordingly. The villas are an excellent option for families, with plenty of space (ranging from two–six bedrooms), cosy living rooms and neat kitchens. Designed by Ilaria Miani, the rooms evoke rural romance: wood-beamed ceilings, elegant, slender-framed four posters (in some rooms), original artworks and agricultural knick-knacks hanging on walls, and fresh flowers from the hotel's gardens.

Poolside

The glittering turquoise infinity pool surveys the verdant Val d’Orcia and is surrounded by lavender.

Spa

The spa brings the rustic surroundings indoors; trees snake through tables, baskets of fruit and fragrant herbs are dotted throughout the lobby and treatments use wholly natural lotions and potions, sourced from a 13th-century Florentine farmacia, Santa Maria Novella. Facials to soothe and illuminate, rose-scented moisturising treatments, massages, and scrubs are some of the heavenly offerings; however, the signature treatments are rather special, whether you're submerged in a perfumed bath, slathered in Etruscan mud, or opt for the full shebang, the Full Monteverdi, a 30-minute soak followed by a 75-minute massage. The gym is a four-minute walk away.

Packing tips

Walking shoes and sketch books for afternoons in the Tuscan campagna.

Also

The hotel hosts artists in residence and decorates bedrooms with their work: if you like what you see, buy a print or painting to take back home.

Children

Very welcome: extra beds for under-12s (free) and cots (also free) can be added to rooms. English-speaking babysitters cost €25 an hour.

Best for

Babies, and older children who can run around in the gardens or splash about in the pool.

Recommended rooms

The villas offer families more space. The two Aeneas suites share a living space making them suitable for a family of four. The Pietas and Vergilius (which can be a twin) luxury rooms can be interconnected.

Activities

Ask staff about organising a trip to one of the local farms included in their culinary tours, where your little ones can pet the animals and learn how cheese is made. Guests staying in a villa can arrange children’s cookery classes with the hotel's chef.  

Swimming pool

The pool doesn’t come with lifeguards, so keep an eye on less confident swimmers. Ask staff for floats and pool toys if you need them.

Meals

The chef will happily adapt menu items for younger palates, or – for villa guests – conduct a cookery class with junior Jamie Olivers.

Babysitting

Babysitting can be arranged with the concierge: sitters are English-speaking and charge around €25 an hour.

No need to pack

Staff will provide games, pool toys, footballs, skipping ropes and croquet kit. Children staying in the villas can borrow a Wii.

Food and Drink

Photos Monteverdi food and drink

Top Table

Sit at one of the little tables out on the terrace, or outside any of the restaurants, with the Tuscan tapestry of fields and valleys stretching beneath you.

Dress Code

Linen; leather sandals; an unbuttoned shirt.

Hotel restaurant

Top-flight eatery Oreade is helmed by chef Giancarla Bodoni. She carved out a name for herself at her acclaimed Miami-based restaurant Escopazzo, where the menu adhered to her farm-to-table philosophy. She's brought her forward-thinking culinary prowess to Monteverdi sourcing the freshest Tuscan ingredients and going back to basics with unpretentious yet delicious dishes. Smoked duck breast with micro-celery and green-apple sorbet; braised wild-boar short ribs; and chocolate fondant with liqueur-poached pears are just some of her palate-pleasing offerings. If not in the kitchen, the team are scouring the local markets for ingredients from nearby farms and cherry picking herbs, fruit and vegetables from the hotel’s gardens. Enjoy a laid-back lunch at the Enoteca, where bruschetta, sweet and savoury tarts, fresh salads, and charcuterie and cheese plates are served.

Hotel bar

The Library bar, which has a terrace with sweeping views of the Val d'Orcia, serves locally brewed beer, wine, prosecco and an impressive cocktail menu, which offers sparkling bellinis and kir royales, daiquiris, margaritas and negronis. Abstainers can enjoy a small but tasty menu of non-alcoholic cocktails, too.

Last orders

Breakfast at Oreade runs from 7.30am to 10.30am; lunch from 12 noon to 2pm; and dinner from 7pm to 9.30pm. Dine at Enoteca between 1pm and 9pm (closed on Mondays). Sip cocktails from 4pm to 10.45pm at the Library Bar.

Room service

There’s a comprehensive bar menu featuring fresh garden salads, regional meats and cheeses, bruschette, pastries and just-baked panini and crostini. Hot dishes from Enoteca's and Oreade's menus are also available (when they're open).

Location

Photos Monteverdi location
Address
Monteverdi
Via di Mezzo, Castiglioncello del Trinoro
Sarteano
53047
Sarteano
Italy

Planes

The closest airport is Florence (www.aeroporto.firenze.it), it's 144km from the hotel – roughly a 90-minute drive or taxi ride – and services a range of flights to major European destinations and within Italy. Pisa International Airport (www.pisa-airport.com) is about two and a half hour's drive from the hotel and serves a wider range of destinations. Most transatlantic flights or flights across the Pacific will arrive at Rome Fiumicino Airport, which is 180km (a two-hour drive) away.

Trains

Chiusi-Chianciano Terme in Chiusi is around 30 minutes from the hotel by car, with services connecting to Rome and Florence, via Arezzo, and Siena (www.trenitalia.com).

Automobiles

The town of Sarteano is less than 10 minutes from Monteverdi by car. The hotel has free parking, but be prepared for narrow, windy roads and gravel-topped streets in the village.

Worth getting out of bed for

Days at the hotel are best spent doing very little, aside from eating, drinking, wandering over to the spa and being very merry. Castiglioncello del Trinoro is a great base for discovering Tuscany’s vineyards, historic villages and tempting trattorias. Guests staying in the villas can enjoy cookery classes (whipping up pici pasta and boar), with the resident chef. Ask staff to arrange hiking trails around Monteverdi, yoga, painting and sketching in the lavender garden, wine and cheese tastings at the Enoteca, or a discussion with the current artist in residence. The hotel also recommends tours of La Foce’s famous gardens, 15 minutes away by car, as well as trips to Montepulciano’s vineyards to sip some Vino Nobile, or Montalcino for Brunello. Olive oil tastings and horse riding can also be arranged.

Local restaurants

Santa Chiara is the elegant restaurant attached to the charming Hotel Convento, on Piazza Santa Chiara (+39 0578 265412; www.conventosantachiara.it). The style is rustic and the hosts are hospitable; try home-made pasta with truffle or porcini, Maremma-style wild boar, rabbit with wild fennel and rich, indulgent puddings. Osteria da Gagliano (+39 0578 268022) on Via Roma is a great spot for simple, traditional Tuscan cuisine: pici with ragout, stewed boar, spelt with pecorino and pears, leek and saffron cake and so on. The little restaurant with its exposed brick and stone walls and arched ceilings makes for an atmospheric setting: there’s only space for 25 though, so be sure to book. The dining room has space for around 20. Once a tannery owned by Tuscan nobile, Locanda dei Tintori (+39 0578267096; www.locandadeitintori.com) is now a humble restaurant serving rustic Tuscan dishes made with locally sourced ingredients; try traditional pici (like a fat spaghetti) or one of their thin and crispy pizzas, followed by a large slice of homemade tiramisu. For a memorable end to a trip, take a table in the cobbled 15th century cloister of Il Chiostro (+39 348 289 8950; www.chiostrocennini.it) on Corso Garibaldi; dine on their pici al cinghiale or veal tartare while sipping a large glass of rosso vino amongst fragments of classical pillars and large urns full of blossoming flowers.

Reviews

Photos Monteverdi reviews
Jess Cartner-Morley

Anonymous review

I have a glass of prosecco in my hand; Mr Smith has a cold beer. We have our feet in the swimming pool; a jawdropping view of the Tuscan hills laid out before us is obscured only by enormous white butterflies.

We have been at Hotel Monteverdi exactly 17 minutes, but already the real world – the easyJet flight, the cavalier Italian disregard for indicating on motorways, the diabolical choice of Italian music radio – has faded away. We are in a better place now. A chef wanders past, cutting herbs from the garden, which reminds us that we are starving after a day of travelling and dinner – but oh, what’s that they brought with the drinks? A tray of fresh bruschetta and olives? Hmmm. We could get used to this.

Monteverdi is the kind of hotel you could wax lyrical about for hours, but if I had to choose just one adjective instead it would be this: ‘classy’. Monteverdi is not a hotel, but an entire village; an ancient hilltop cluster of pale stone buildings with a panoramic aspect across the Val d’Orcia which has been converted into self-contained villas and hotel rooms, with a swimming pool, gardens, a relaxed breakfast-and-lunch café and an elegant restaurant. So instead of arriving in a soulless foyer, you park your car on a steep cobbled lane and you are led through lavender-lined steps to your room. In place of getting a lift to the infinity pool with a view, you meander across terraced lawns, counting lizards as you go. It is an extremely pleasing arrangement, which allows maximum enjoyment of the vistas – I know I’m banging on about the views, but I promise you that if you come here, you will totally see why – and it all allows you to feel as though you are drinking in Tuscan sights and culture without actually having to venture more than a few yards from your perch.

We stayed in Room 3, which was just above the restaurant, but utterly peaceful. (This is not a late-night-party kind of a hotel.) The decor is of the chic rustic-whitewashed-simplicity school familiar to anyone who has stayed in upmarket hotels in, say, Ibiza, or Andalucia, or Provence. I’m not being snarky – when done well, it is the perfect backdrop for an idyllic holiday, for fabulously restorative sleeping and for those heavenly siestas when the world seems to stand still for an hour or two, and Monteverdi does it very well indeed. Thick mediaeval stone walls ensure the interiors are wondrously cool, while heavy wooden shutters keep it pitch dark until whatever time you decide to call morning. (Being an isolated village on the top of a Tuscan hill ensures the quiet. In fact, the first night, it took me a while to get to sleep as the adjustment from London levels of outside-the-window shenanigans to the blanket of utter silence that had descended by midnight was something of a shock. But, you know, we learned to live with it.) We had the bed from heaven, two mini dressing areas off the sleeping space, a good-sized bathroom, and a little sitting room with a sofa and a desk. Pool towels came in a stylish basket to take to the pool; the little notebooks were covetable enough to have been, I admit, immediately snaffled into my suitcase.

There is no better way to kick off a summer evening than an Aperol spritz at sunset. Especially when it is served with a thick, serious-looking menu presented with a proud flourish by waiters who know that even here, in Tuscany, among the very best food in the world, Monteverdi takes some beating. The sheep’s cheese bruschetta antipasto was so tasty I had it every night. The sea bream with clams and the Florentine steak both so delicious that there was really no excuse for chocolate pistachio cake – except that when you’re on holiday, and the food is this good, it would be criminal not to make the most of it, right?

Blissfully easy as it would be to while away the day by the infinity pool, watching the tiny Hummingbird butterflies dart in and out of the lavender, Monteverdi is within tempting striking distance of some of the most picturesque towns in Italy. Montepulciano, a treasure trove of restaurants and frescoed churches, winding streets lined with gelaterias (for ice-creams) and enotecas (for the acclaimed local red) is a 30-minute drive away. Even closer to hand, Sarteano – a sleepy Italian town a few minutes from Montepulciano – is the perfect size for a shady, atmospheric wander from piazza to hilltop fortezza. At the hotel’s recommendation, we lunched in a tiny blink-and-you’ll-miss-it osteria Gagliano, just off the main piazza, where the pici – pasta in the traditional Tuscan noodle-shape – with wild boar ragu was to die for.

So there we were, in the heart of the most beautiful landscape in Europe, surrounded by the most opulent treasures of Renaissance art, within an easy and picturesque drive of Siena’s famous Piazza del Campo, and of Montalcino where glasses of the town’s famous Brunello can be bought and sipped around the castle walls – and not to mention of the Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana and Prada outlet stores – and yet, what did we find ourselves yearning to do by early afternoon each day? Head back to our hilltop bubble for an afternoon swim à deux, an hour with a book, a shower in our cool room, aperitivos, and dinner. Perfetto. Whoever it was who said you can’t buy class clearly had never stayed at Monteverdi.

The Guestbook

Whenever you book a stay at a Smith Hotel with us, we’ll invite you to review it when you get back. Read what other Smith members had to say in Monteverdi’s Guestbook below.

We loved

The peace and quiet.

Don’t expect

Much to do.

Rating

Stayed on 16 Aug 2017

We loved

We loved every aspect of the hotel. While day trips are very easy from this location, we found ourselves planning them around meals to be back at the hotel for most lunches and every dinner. We loved Chef Giancarla and her farm to table passion. Dishes were inventive and made with the freshest ingredients. We also enjoyed a wine tasting in the Enoteca and a wonderful couples spa afternoon. Montepulciano is a lovely drive from the hotel and has an amazing selection of stores offering wine tasting and local cuisine.

Rating

Stayed on 23 Apr 2017

We loved

The peace, the quiet, the views of Val d'Orcia. When leaving the hotel, take the opposite road from where you arrive when driving through Sarteano (arriving East, leave West). It's a gravel road/farming road (it can get very bumpy and we were very surprised the GPS recommended it or even had it on its map) but it was worth the trouble as you get to go through farm lands and villas with breathtaking views.

Don’t expect

Very engaged staff in the likes of typical 5 star hotels. They are quite hands off and happy to let you engage with the surroundings by yourself.

Rating

Stayed on 18 Aug 2016

We loved

Heaven

Rating

Stayed on 21 Jul 2016

We loved

Beautiful location, amazing views, stylish bedroom and the most delicious food prepared from fresh local ingredients - it is clear why this place was voted Best Hotel Restaurant by Mr & Mrs Smith members last year.

Don’t expect

Rooms (not suites) are above the restaurant kitchen, so it can be noisy late into the night and from quite an early hour when setting up for breakfast. The lack of air-conditioning made sleeping an issue in the hot weather when windows had to be left open.

Rating

Stayed on 25 Jun 2016

We loved

Everything. A beautiful hotel with very friendly staff and amazing food. The hotel restaurant is very good, I'm not sure you can find a bad restaurant around Tuscany!

Don’t expect

To be in the thick of the action- the hotel is in a village in the middle of nowhere!

Rating

Stayed on 18 Apr 2016

We loved

Everything about it; it was an absolutely personal experience. Fantastic staff, and everything was completely perfect!

Don’t expect

The turn-down service and change of towels the minute we used them; it was so speedy!

Rating

Stayed on 24 Nov 2015