Leeu House

Worth getting out of bed for

A stay at Leeu House might feel like you’ve sojourned to the country, such are its mountain views and sense of space (it’s actually three properties, purchased by owner Analjit Singh to allow for a pool, gardens and one hell of a view), but you’re actually on Huguenot Street, one of Franschhoek village’s main drags, putting you within walking distance of its top-drawer dining, indie boutiques and – most importantly – the launching point for the Wine Tram. From here there are eight hop-on, hop-off routes to choose from, chugging along to noted wineries such as Grande Provence (for oyster, hummus or nougat pairings), Mont Rochelle (for syrahs and cab savs), Franschhoek Cellar (for wines, chocolates and cheeses) and Rickety Bridge (for panna cotta pairings and a non-alcoholic flight). But, we must insist on a stop at Pigcasso, where you’ll not only get to sample fine wines, but also meet a very fine swine with excellent artistic abilities, and maybe see her in action. It might be a good idea to line your stomach a little pre-tram, so take the ‘chocolate experience’ at Huguenot Fine Chocolates close by, nibble and sip your way around Franschhoek Village Market (picking up handicrafts as you go), or stop by the beautiful Babylonstoren farm and shop to pick up picnic fixings, wander the intricately laid out gardens, and meet the resident animals (oh and, go on, have some wine while you’re at it). The Huguenot Memorial Museum outlines Franschhoeak’s fascinating history and the influence the French refugees had on the region. And to exercise your ‘nose’ in another fashion, sniff out the First South African Perfume Museum – follow up by having a custom scent made at Kumanov Perfumery. And, after all that imbibing, a hike in the glorious Mont Rochelle Nature Reserve or a spin on a bike from Franschhoek cycles will sort out any sore heads.

Local restaurants

Where to begin? Franschhoek is one of the world’s great gastronomic centres, where dining experiences are rounded off with moment-making views and wines that you’ll be photographing the labels of for posterity. You could spend a week or two living off Huguenot Street’s offerings alone, but kick your culinary odyssey off at Le Coin Francais, where award-collecting chef Darren Badenhorst refines the region’s flavours in dishes such as rare springbok with ancient grains, black-garlic pureé, rooibos and meebos gel (a sweet made of dried apricots); or buttered and barbecued langoustines with Gruberg cheese, snoek-brandade velouté, vineyard shoots and a pea-and-pancetta risotto. Ōku’s delicate Asian dishes span sushi, bao buns, hearty ramen bowls and mains of wagyu in a Mongolian-style sauce and teriyaki salmon. We recommend the kaiseki menu so you try a little of each over 10 courses. Chefs Warehouse at Maison riffs on a tapas concept of four-course menus. Start with apple, lime and sriracha-spiked oysters or pastrami pretzels, then tuck into a muddle of dishes from the garden, sea or street – pumpkin in Peking glaze, seabass and crayfish velouté flatbread, taro tacos with smoked paprika and blood orange. And wine-estate eatery Orangerie Restaurant is just around the corner for saucily French fare: gruyère soufflé with apple-celery salad; pork-belly ravioli in a black-truffle jus with whipped goat’s cheese; brut-steamed mussels with a gremolata crème.

Local cafés

You needn’t go far for a coffee fix – Huguenot Street has the Hoek Espresso Bar and Get Lost Coffee – visit the latter for the parma ham, fig and burrata baguette; and buttercream-slathered cakes. And, Terbodore Café (‘big dog café’) is a popular brunching spot for eats such as Indonesian coconut-curry congee, cheesecake-topped sweet-potato waffles and polenta chips with coffee mayonnaise and a dusting of parmesan. 

Local bars

Franschhoek’s drinking scene bleeds red, white and rosé, so oenophiles will absolutely fare best. However, for those who favour grain to grape, the Tuk Tuk Microbrewery has five of its own sudsy concoctions and a tasty pan-global menu to help you keep a level head. Franschhoek Station Pub & Craft Bar has local beers which you can drink on a disused train platform. And Elephant & Barrel looks like it’s been plonked down from the English countryside, and has nine taps and around 30 local and imported brews.