Cadiz Province, Spain

Hotel V

Rates from (ex tax)$234.65

Price information

If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 21 days.

Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (EUR219.00), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.

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Style

Very Moorish

Setting

Hilltop pueblo blanco

A 17th-century manor with Moorish appeal in the hilltop village of Vejer de la Frontera, Hotel V enhances its picturesque surroundings with postcard-perfect views across the countryside of Costa de la Luz and the Moroccan skyline beyond the water. Its 12 rooms make for an idyllic, relaxing retreat after a day of kite-surfing or splashing along sun-soaked beaches – ewe can think of nowhere better to siesta than on the breezy rooftop terrace.

Smith Extra

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A small bottle of cava in your room

Facilities

Photos Hotel V facilities

Need to know

Rooms

12.

Check–Out

Noon. Check-in, 3pm.

Rates

Double rooms from $234.65 (€199), excluding tax at 10 per cent.

Price information

If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 21 days.

Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (EUR219.00), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.

More details

Rates usually exclude breakfast (from €10).

At the hotel

DVD library, free WiFi, laundry service, rooftop Jacuzzi (open during summer months), spa and beauty treatments on request. In rooms: flatscreen TVs, underfloor heating, Kama Ayurveda toiletries, bathrobe and slippers.

Our favourite rooms

All rooms at Hotel V are beautiful – so there’s no need to worry about being stuck with the chamber that no one wants. Our absolute favourite, though is Exclusive Room 10, the only room with a private terrace, which has wonderful views over the hills and down to the ocean, while the latter has high ceilings and a mezzanine level that acts as the ideal sitting area. Its enormous windows and well-chosen antique furniture are real selling points, too.

Poolside

There is no pool at V – but the inviting waters of the Atlantic Ocean are less than 15 minutes’ drive away.

Packing tips

Take a surfer-style hoodie to protect you from the levante winds that occasionally sweep down from the north. And make sure you pack a parasol or two – many of the beaches in the area are completely unspoilt, and devoid of sunbed hire.

Children

Kids welcome.

Food and Drink

Photos Hotel V food and drink

Top Table

Enjoy a light bite up on the roof terrace – where there’s also an honesty bar – and take in the views of Morocco on the other side of the water.

Dress Code

Light shirts and airy trousers – maybe a cashmere jumper for when it gets cooler later on.

Hotel restaurant

The hotel has no restaurant, and only breakfast is available (although tapas and salads are sometimes available on request).

Hotel bar

There is no bar as such, though guests often congregate on sofas in the cosy saloon, where they can get drinks from an honesty bar and relax to a soft jazz and lounge soundtrack.

Last orders

The honesty bars get locked at 11pm.

Room service

Tapas is available between 7am and 11pm.

Location

Photos Hotel V location
Address
Hotel V
11–13 Calle Rosario, Vejer de la Frontera,
Cadiz Province
11150
Cadiz Province
Spain

Planes

Jerez de la Frontera Airport (XRY) is the nearest airport, 40 minutes away by car. Take a taxi or travel by bus on line M050 or M051 (a single ticket to Jerez costs about €1).

Trains

The train stations nearest to Hotel V are those in San Fernando, Cádiz and Algeciras, all Renfe-operated (www.renfe.es). San Fernando Station is about 20 minutes’ drive from the hotel, and it takes an hour to reach the others from Vejer.

Automobiles

Buses run every hour from Vejer to Cádiz and Barbate. When it comes to exploring the surrounding countryside of Cadiz Province, you might find two (or four) wheels useful. Hotel V offers bicycle and car hire, and Jerez Airport has four car-hire desks. Vejer can be reached via the N340 coastal road, which runs between Cádiz and Algeciras; take exit 34 and follow the signs to the town. As there’s no parking at the hotel itself, you'll need to leave your car in one of the town car parks: the nearest one is La Corredera, about five minutes' walk away – a taxi from here costs about €5-€7.

Reviews

Photos Hotel V reviews
Victoria Gill

Anonymous review

We miss two turnings and chance upon the cobbled square, where the dapper Belgian manager of Hotel V in Spain’s Cadiz Province awaits. Greetings over, she leads our curious caravan up the hill – she, our chaperone king of the castle; Mr Smith the Grand Old Duke of York; and me, Humpty Dumpty, slipping about in my heels, eyes on stalks, praying for some semblance of a pavement.

A 17th-century Andalucian stone house turned boutique hotel that appears out of nowhere at the peak of Vejer de la Frontera’s elephant-grey labyrinth of enchanted streets, V, at first glance, is all jasmine-scented courtyards, soothing Ella Fitzgerald melodies, hidden enclaves and cradling stone ceilings. The silence of our room and the lure of a bed wide enough to accommodate an orgy is enough for me to coax Mr Smith – eager to sample the native nightlife – into playing hooky, and soaking away our journey with a bottle of finest Rioja on our balcony.

The half-moon panorama, night-flecked with the halogen stars of mankind, keeps us guessing – is that the sea, Tangiers, a train we spy before us? I’d seen from photographs that most of the rooms at V have deep, open-plan, two-person baths with rainforest showers – but, like the town, and the hotel itself, they are Moorishly semi-concealed. Screens, pillars, frosted glass – hidden, intriguing, seductive, yet ever-present… Reader, we didn’t surface.

Until the morning, that is, when the lure of the vista catapults me out of bed and to the window. V is situated up on a hilltop, and the view is an ever-changing fairytale kaleidoscope stretching from the 14th century crenellations of the castle down to a verdant green plateau, punctured by chalk quarries, winding trains and jade glades, which seems to stretch out to infinity. It is so remarkable that even two such committed somniacs as we are roused for a lingering Andalusian breakfast au panorama on our lavender-potted private sunbathing terrace.  

Mr Smith falls back to sleep and I teeter atop the cobblestones toward the town square in search of flat shoes. Only I keep getting diverted – by the creamy café con leche in a bar that seems to double as a refuge for the village gossips; beguiling ateliers – a man crafting origami objects by hand at a table in his gallery (later, Mr Smith will convince me that I don’t really need an oversized paper fish) and a designer stitching camelskin in her handbag-cum-workshop.

Vejer’s Visigothic cobbled streets – settled by the Moors in the eighth century and now a World Heritage site – teem with hidden wonders. Like its backdrop, V is brimful of nooks and surprises, from the rooftop Jacuzzi looking out over the ocean to the 12 exquisite, individually designed rooms showcasing evocative features such as mezzanines, lawn terraces with birdcages, libraries and antique furniture everywhere. Staff are switched on and obliging, yet invisible. But perhaps the most astonishing feature is the glass spiral staircase descending into the base of V’s 350-year-old well, now a spa comprised of two conical caverns that incorporate flowers, a bath and authentic Ayurvedic massages in subterranean bliss.

Mr Smith has woken and we eschew Vejer’s fine restaurants in favour of crisp dorada and pineapple ice cream in balsamic reduction on V’s rooftop terrace, where the 360-degree views and cooling infinity water features foil the searing heat. It’s siesta time and Vejer falls silent. We lose ourselves in the ramparts of the town – all roads seem eventually to lead to where you want to be: the Moorish castle, the church, the Jewish quarter with its brass-hand doorknockers. As we survey the astonishing view, Mr Smith tells Rapunzel that if she lets her hair down the prince will be able to reach her. We return to the hotel and I murmur that I think he already has, as we curl up and wonder at the soothing natural materials – glass features everywhere, stone walls evocatively distressed, luxuriously cocooned between underheated marble floors and original beamed ceilings – and are sung to sleep by a chorus of birds tweeting and dogs barking to mark the end of siesta time.

Back in our room we had tittered over menus advertising ‘Peppers with Garlic Minced Chef’ and ‘Scrambled Staff’. One hour later, we make our way in a taxi blaring flamenco through the dense, pulsing undergrowth of Santa Lucia. Like an apparition, La Tajea, a farmhouse restaurant, appears and we dine on succulent, bloody ox so fresh it might have been vanquished in that afternoon’s bullfight and razor-sharp lomo submerged in a creamy, pinenut sauce, seated against a wall of glass separating us from the verdant, illuminated garden outside. Afterwards, we return to Vejer and pull up ringside seats at the bar of La Bodeguita, a hive of activity in the Spanish tradition, where we sip Havana and coke into the small hours.

In the morning we linger in the Jacuzzi, luxuriating in the sight of our next destination – Tangiers, the craggy northern tip of Morocco that looms over the horizon, just 35 minutes away by catamaran. That day we stop by nearby El Palmar, lunching at La Chanca, a former 16th-century tuna factory, then make like true Brits as I strip down to my pink bikini, and Mr Smith holds my hand while we sunbathe and eat ice creams on the beach. On our balcony, Mr Smith had asked whether Sleeping Beauty wanted the prince to come over the fields to find her. ‘Darling,’ I tell him, ‘this is the kind of place I could happily sleep in for 100 years.’

The Guestbook

Whenever you book a stay at a Smith Hotel with us, we’ll invite you to review it when you get back. Read what other Smith members had to say in Hotel V’s Guestbook below.

We loved

The location of the hotel on top of a hill with the village down below. Very quirky. Roof terrace with amazing views although the builders were working on half of the terrace so a little limited. Le Garden de Califi Moroccan restaurant was a real experience.

Don’t expect

Lots of other guests.

Rating

Stayed on 4 Jun 2017

We loved

Hotel staff are very friendly and helpful. Book a room with a view over the town (white buildings, expansive perspective over the fields in the distance). We upgraded from a classic room to room #11. Breakfast was great! Excellent restaurants, interesting food and wine, neat shops, charming town square with fountain. Local people live a charmed life!

Don’t expect

...that you can bring large suitcases - you must walk from a parking area through cobblestone streets / alleys. Overall - very fun and interesting - but set your expectations accordingly.

Rating

Stayed on 12 Apr 2017

We loved

The room, the location, and although we only met 2 members of staff they were excellent, especialy when we got lost and they sent a taxi to find us. We tried 3 local restaurants all different, all excellent, and every reason to go back and try the others. 10/10

Don’t expect

Lifts and flat walking

Rating

Stayed on 8 May 2016

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