Paris, France

Hotel Les Deux Gares

Price per night from$145.02

Price information

If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 60 days.

Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (EUR139.09), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.

Style

Tongue-in-chic

Setting

Station to station

Designer Luke Edward Hall is a bright young thing with an even brighter vision. Hôtel Les Deux Gares – a pit stop between two of Paris’ biggest stations in the increasingly trendy 10th arrondissement – is fully saturated with his bold ideas. In the lobby, electric-blue velvet, leopard print, burgundy toile de jouy wallpaper and a golden French Empire table vie for attention; rooms don’t (just) put primaries in the corner; and bathrooms add Art Deco detailing to rainbow-bright fittings. And the surprises keep coming in this homey Haussmanian: a gym bedecked with Josef Frank florals; psychedelic Wilton carpets; handpainted lampshades; cheeky twin showerheads… Plates with personality are served in the attached bistro and natural wines flow at the bar, but the hotel’s charms are largely cosmetic; in this endlessly chic city, Hall’s definitely made his mark.

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Facilities

Photos Hotel Les Deux Gares facilities

Need to know

Rooms

33 rooms.

Check–Out

12 noon. Earliest check-in, 2pm. Both are flexible, subject to a charge and availability.

Prices

Double rooms from £132.02 (€153), including tax at 10 per cent. Please note the hotel charges an additional local city tax of €2.88 per person per night on check-in.

More details

Rates don't usually include breakfast, a light affair of croissants, eggs, cereals and coffee served in the lobby lounge or Café Les Deux Gares (€16 for an adult, €10 for a child). A city tax of €2.88 a person, each night will be added to your bill.

Also

Hall has lent his hand to more than just the paints and furnishings here – he’s doodled the Eiffel Tower, martini glasses and French bon mots on the lampshades in rooms.

At the hotel

Sauna, gym, lobby sitting room, laundry. In rooms: flatscreen TV, free WiFi, minibar, desk, air-conditioning.

Our favourite rooms

There are three colour schemes to choose from: olive and lemon, sky-blue and scarlet or lilac and pea-green (with a few other shades in the mix for good measure). Some have more distinguishing features: the fifth floor rooms all have balconies, two rooms have bath tubs and two will get lovers in a lather with twin shower heads.

Spa

There’s no spa, but you can sweat it out in the sauna or psych yourself up for a workout in a gym, which is dressed with very psychedelic Eldblomman wallpaper (from hip Swedish store Svenskt Tenn), madly paired with a red-and-white checkerboard floor. Even the equipment – a wood-finished NOHrD treadmill, water-rower and weights – is très chic.

Packing tips

Your biggest shades to deflect the hotel’s glare.

Also

The hotel is a svelte Parisian with bijou rooms, so unfortunately it can’t accommodate guests in wheelchairs.

Children

Kids will love the paintbox palette and some rooms interconnect to sleep four (or there’s a triple room), but there’s little to entertain them onsite. Babysitting is available for €16 an hour (with a minimum three-hour booking).

Food and Drink

Photos Hotel Les Deux Gares food and drink

Top Table

Sit pretty in one of the reception room’s many interesting chairs.

Dress Code

Cultured clash.

Hotel restaurant

Much like the hotel, the chefs at Café Les Deux Gares (Jonathan Schweizer from Sauvage and Institut Paul Bocuse and Frédérico Suarez from Loca) are no shrinking violets – their daily-changing menu throws Île-de-France-sourced ingredients together like Luke Edward Hall does pattern and hue. Albacore tuna with apricots, spring onions and nasturtium oil? Why not. Lovage sorbet with meringue and cucumber? Down the hatch. And to finish, fior di latte and olive-oil ice-cream – altogether it’s a wondrous symphony from a disparate orchestra. The decor is a little more traditional here, with Thonet bent-wood chairs, Art Deco lamps and a zinc-topped bar, but Pauline Leyravaud’s trompe-l'œil tortoiseshell ceiling adds an air of surreality to proceedings.

Hotel bar

Frédéric Lesire is the man who keeps things well oiled behind the bar and customers well lubricated in front of it. The café has an expertly chosen array of natural wines that can hold their own against the walk-on-the-wild-side dishes.

Last orders

The café is open Tuesday to Saturday, with breakfast from 8am, lunch service from 12 noon to 2.30pm and dinner from 7pm to 10.30pm.

Location

Photos Hotel Les Deux Gares location
Address
Hotel Les Deux Gares
2 Rue des Deux Gares
Paris
75010
France

Hôtel Les Deux Gares is in the stealthily cool 10th arrondissement between the titular transport hubs of Gare du Nord and Gare de l'Est.

Planes

Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport is the closest, around a 40-minute drive from the hotel, or a 30-minute train ride on the B line direct to Gare du Nord. Alternatively, fly into Orly Airport to the south of the city (an hour’s drive from the hotel).

Trains

he clue’s in the name – you couldn’t be better served for arriving by rail. With Gare du Nord on one side and Gare de l’Est on the other, trains flurry in from all over France, the Netherlands, Belgium, Switzerland and the UK (and Eurostar stops here). Both terminuses also have Metro stops from which you can zip across the city.

Automobiles

Don’t be so gauche – Paris is for promenading in true flâneur style or trysting in the back of a taxi. And the Metro will easily get you where you need to go. If you do take the wheel (both gares have car-hire booths) there’s plentiful parking in the area (and hotel guests get 20 per cent off the local carpark a 10-minute walk away), and if you’ve driven over from another country, you’ll need a mandatory Crit’Air sticker (buy yours here: www.certificat-air.gouv.fr) denoting how eco-friendly your vehicle is (the cleaner it is, the better your parking opportunities).

Worth getting out of bed for

The hotel’s neighbourhood (especially around the gares) is a little edgier and less polished than some, but as new hotels and restaurants open it’s earning some cachet of its own. The Little India area has some of the city’s best curry houses, the waterways of Canal Saint-Martin offer gentle boat rides and pretty picnicking spots (pick up champagne, caviar and other decadent treats at Julhès épicerie), and marchés Saint Martin and Saint Quentin showcase the area’s cultural diversity in delicious style. You’ll need to pound some pavement to see the main sites (the Louvre and Left Bank are about a 40-minute walk, Sacré-Cœur is 30 minutes away, the Eiffel Tower just over an hour), or hop on a bike for zippier sightseeing. See operas in opulent surrounds at the Palais Garnier, catch a quiet moment at the flower-strewn Jardin Villemin, pick up niche art tomes at OFR Bookshop and see what’s happening at envelope-pushing gallery Les Douches (formerly a bath house). And Musée des Arts et Métiers celebrates industrial design in the hallowed halls of an abandoned priory. And Père Lachaise Cemetery might not be everyone’s idea of a fun day out, but this sprawling necropolis holds the great and the good (Oscar Wilde, Sarah Bernhardt, Chopin, Colette, Jim Morrison and many more), some eye-catching mausoleums and curious memento mori: Georges Rodenbach’s zombie-esque tomb and Victor Noir’s aroused effigy – it’s good luck to give his erection a pat.

Local restaurants

French cuisine may be better known for its butteriness, but in this corner of Paris, there are spicier offerings to seek out. Little India (between the Gare du Nord and rue du Faubourg-Saint-Martin) is where waves of Sri Lankan and South Indian immigrants settled, and they brought their A-game cuisine with them. Load your table with paneer beignets, dosas stuffed with potato masala, pilaus of all persuasions and chutney-topped idlis at Saravanaa Bhavan; tuck into true Tamil cuisine (and a very reasonable three-course lunch for €16) at Dishny; or pair the delicious street food at La Baranaan (hello, banana and pepper rhum babas) with something from their equally alluring cocktail list. Follow in designer Luke Edward Hall’s footsteps and spend the evening at raucously fun Aux Deux Amis, where elegant French dishes are paired with a long list of natural wines. On the banks of the canal, Le Comptoir Général bills itself as a museum celebrating African and Caribbean culture, but it’s so much more than that: a scene depicting a barbershop is where visitors can get their hair cut, a classroom is used as a daycare centre, and a dramatic exhibit referencing a 12th-century hunt for mythic Congolese dinosaur Mokole Mbembe is where humanitarian missions to the Congo are arranged. And alongside all the food for thought some top-drawer fish dishes are served, using catches from Normandy and Brittany. And, PNYB (Paris–New York burger) taps into the huge trend in gourmet burgers that’s swept Paris these past few years. The owner hand-rears the meat at Farm Ponclet and everything between the buns (and beyond) is carefully considered, plus the choice is wide, from pulled pork and bourguignon burgers to vegan and portobello mushroom takes.

Local cafés

Don’t arrive too hungry at Hollybelly for their excellent Australian-style brunch. It’s likely you’ll have to queue, so the trick is to be ravenous by the time you reach your table. You’ll want all the pancakes and eggy bits, plus coffee from noted roasters, but there are some house stand-outs, say the chicory-infused New Orleans iced coffee with condensed milk, home-made cola float and Brit-style baked beans. They’ve made their own beer with brewers Brique House too. For a banging brew of another kind, head to Palais Royal’s Café Kitsuné, whose coffee and chic interiors have earned wide acclaim.

Local bars

‘Is this the place?’, you’ll enquire as you stare at the raggedy array of posters that cover Le Syndicat’s façade. But, persevere and you’ll find yourself in a louche French fantasy of hip young things and vaguely industrial decor. The barkeeps wear the Tricolore on their sleeves (not literally for these dapper folks), and the moreish cocktails are awash with cognac, crème de cassis, armagnac and other Franco faves. And, since you’re in France, it’s time for wine – neighbourhood bar Le Verre Volé doesn’t look particularly special, but settle in for the evening and you’ll see why it’s been so heartily embraced by residents: natural wines flow freely, there’s something drinkable to suit every budget and taste, and remarkably imaginative, daily-changing small plates will stop you from falling off your chair – the boudins blanc and noir are especially good.

Reviews

Photos Hotel Les Deux Gares reviews

Anonymous review

Every hotel featured is visited personally by members of our team, given the Smith seal of approval, and then anonymously reviewed. As soon as our reviewers have returned from this rainbow-bright hotel in Paris and unpacked their ironic ‘touriste’ t-shirt from the hotel’s boutique and their equally ironic beret, a full account of their on-the-go break will be with you. In the meantime, to whet your wanderlust, here's a quick peek inside Hôtel Les Deux Gares in the 10th arrondissement…

Designer Luke Edward Hall is a master of ‘shouldn’t work but it does’ – after all it’s a bold rake who looks at leopard print, electric-blue velvet, burgundy-and-sky-blue toile de jouy wallpaper and pea-green paint and goes ‘yes, that’ll do’. But, Hôtel Les Deux Gares’ lobby, a tableaux of all these textures and tints, is perhaps one of Paris’s most stylish – no mean feat. And throughout the five floors of this Haussmanian (re-haute-d by hôtelier Adrien Gloaguen of the Touriste group who was caught up in the kinetic romance of a retro railway hotel), Hall has kept the past alive with Art Deco touches (the marquise-cut mirrors in bathrooms, black-and-white parquet, subtle Greek key motifs); Seventies-style carpets (by beloved Brit brand Wilton); and mid-century-modern armchairs by Italian architect Paolo Buffa. But his forays into auctions and antique stores have led to a collection of objets that would make everyone from Napoleon to Edith Piaf, and from Bardot to Marion Cotillard, feel at home. 

And the ‘pantone for kids TV presenters’ look doesn’t let up in rooms, where beds have candy-striped headboards, primary-hued bathrooms are provided by the aptly named Bold Bathroom Company, and schemes of mustard and lilac and baby blue and cherry red stubbornly co-exist. Then, just as your retinas adjust, the petite basement gym comes at you with its red-and-white checkerboard floor and trippy Josef Frank florals on the walls. If it’s all a bit much, retire to the Café Les Deux Gares just outside for a very reasonable set lunch and daily-changing dishes made from produce local to Ile-de-France. It’s comfortingly classique, with its Thonet chairs and zinc-topped bar, but surrealism creeps in: artist Pauline Leyravaud’s trompe-l'œil tortoiseshell ceiling is a glamorous illusion and colour is prominent. Even Hall himself has described the look as ‘bonkers’ but well-behaved hotels don’t make history, so we salute him for going all the way down the rabbit hole.

Price per night from $145.02

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