Hotel Figueroa

Worth getting out of bed for

First, admire the extensive art collection: it's mostly works by local women, in an homage to the building's YWCA heritage, such as Alison Van Pelt's painting Maude in the lobby – the Maude in question is Hotel Figueroa’s first female general manager, Maude N Bouldin. (There's also work by the odd male artist in the rotating exhibits, like a bright plant-covered walkway full of prints by archetypal Los Angeles photographer Esteban Oriol.) Next, explore the cocktail menus and many elegant chairs in which to sip: a gin and tonic perched at the lobby bar, perhaps? Tequila in Breva, of something fruity from Veranda by the uniquely coffin-shaped swimming pool? 

It's worth venturing outside, if only to get a better look at the vast frequently updated murals painted over the hotel's skyscrapers. For more local eye-candy, join a DTLA Art Walk, which traces the city's most exciting galleries and street art. The fantastical Last Bookstore has a few novel concepts: a tunnel and desk built of books, rainbow shelves and other installations (plus tomes to buy, of course). And, shoppers have bountiful cult boutiques to choose from: stop into the Ace Hotel shop, Hammer and Spear for fabulous vintage finds, Poketo for arty trinkets and Tanner Goods for well-crafted leather goods.

Local restaurants

Breakfast at Hotel Figueroa is very good, and save room for brunch at Veranda at least once. But you're also just a few minutes' drive from Perch, a Downtown brunch and cocktails spot exceptionally popular with the glossiest of Angelenos (you've probably seen the selfies on Instagram). For a decidedly non-traditional afternoon tea, hit Birdies for fried chicken, coffee and doughnuts (the lemon, thyme and pistachio ones come highly recommended). Chilled-out dinner at The Exchange (at another favourite Smith stay, Freehand LA) is always tasty, and for something a little fancier head to the ornate restaurant at The NoMad Los Angeles.

Local bars

We can't imagine you'd run out of cocktails to try at Figueroa. But for a change of scene, The Varnish is a speakeasy-style hideout with live jazz several days a week and Clifton's Republic is a multi-layered wonderland of a drinking den, with five floors to discover. Over the past decade, Downtown Los Angeles has been transformed from an office-hours-only sort of place to an after-dark destination. The biggest night-out venues are the Walt Disney Concert Hall, the Gehry-designed silver behemoth that's home to the LA Philharmonic, and the Staples Center, where the crowds head for basketball (go Lakers), ice hockey and big-name pop concerts. After your nocturnal adventures, if you're in need of French toast before heading to bed, LA classic the Pantry is conveniently right next door to Hotel Figueroa. It's been open round the clock since 1924, so the legend goes, and don't be surprised if there's a queue to get in. The portions are vast, and the prices are low (and cash only).