Hotel Excelsior Dubrovnik

In prime position in Croatia’s Unesco-protected capital, Hotel Excelsior Dubrovnik is historic, has gorgeous interiors and some incredibly special spots for swimming. Spending two nights here is not enough, but it’s perfect for a quick getaway, and is ideal for switching off and chilling out.

The Excelsior is an easy 30-minute ride from Dubrovnik Airport, which makes arriving from an early morning flight bearable. It’s been built into a rocky hillside overlooking the Adriatic – a dramatic setting that wouldn’t look out of place in a James Bond film. In fact, it has hosted Bond: Sir Roger Moore once stayed, as well as A-listers such as Elizabeth Taylor and Francis Ford Coppola; Queen Elizabeth II, too. A recent renovation divided the hotel into two parts: the original Villa Odak, built in 1913; and the more modern Tower wing. I would advise booking a room in the villa, formerly a royal residence, which has more traditional charm than the Tower’s mirrored-glass block. I stayed in a spacious Superior Sea View Room, which had cinematic views of the Adriatic’s sparkling waters and the medieval Old Town. Really, though, every room offers breathtaking views, and if you book a Deluxe Room or suite, you’ll have your own private balcony too, with a table and retro white-wicker chairs. 

The aerial views of manicured terraces, crowds of cacti and waves crashing against the rocks below seemed straight out of a Slim Aarons photograph. Inside our room was chic and effortlessly cool, dressed with navy headboards, Carrara marble tables and pale-pink velvet chairs. As if this stylish sanctum wasn’t enough, we were also given chocolate and candied-orange treats to welcome you. Anyone would be in heaven here. 

We headed straight to the sunbathing deck to catch the last of the summer rays. With only the sound of the waves occasionally splashing over the rocks, the atmosphere here is wonderfully relaxed. The Dalmatian Coast is famous for having some of the cleanest waters, so you must remember to bring your goggles for diving, as the water is crystal clear and you can see for miles – a reason by itself to travel to Croatia. As well as wild swimming, the hotel’s extensive spa has an enormous indoor pool, plus a Finnish sauna, steam room and snow fountain. This was an added bonus and I made efforts to hop into the Roman baths or soak in the Jacuzzi whirlpool before my morning swim. The snow fountain is an incredible way to rejuvenate your circulation and it left me buzzing all the way to breakfast.

After spending all day reading and sun-soaking, it was time to explore Dubrovnik. Excelsior is just a five-minute walk from the town centre. For food, avoid the tourist traps and hunt down the street-food cafés. We particularly liked Barba for its octopus burger. For date-night dining, waterfront Orhan offers delicious seafood and overlooks a secluded harbour. Aside from guessing which parts of the town featured in Game of Thrones, I loved clifftop Buza bar, where soulful music played as we sipped Croatian wine and watched the sunset. You can’t go to Dubrovnik without walking round the medieval stone wall to find more panoramic vistas and to understand the scale of the fortress. I would advise going first thing in the morning or at 5pm to catch the last opening hour, as daytimes get very hot.

Breakfast at Excelsior is served in a bright white courtyard and offers fresh blueberry smoothies, chocolate croissants and a medley of eggs any-way-you-fancy. It’s included in the room charge and is incredibly good value. On our second day it was time to tear ourselves away from our room and make time for some island hopping. You can find many kiosks offering trips on your way into town and we managed to find a reasonably priced excursion to see the neighbouring island of Lokrum. The snorkelling here is again out-of-this-world and there are a few beautiful spots for cliff-jumping. I also saw a few sunset tours which take people round the Walls of Ston, which is a fun way to see the town from the water and get your bearings. 

We ended the holiday with one last swim in the dazzling blue waves and a drink of Croatian Pošip wine on the terrace. If visiting Dubrovnik, this peaceful, elegant stay gives you a chance to hit pause, and replenish your body and mind.