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Hotel Highlights

  • Centrally sited on the Plaza de la Independencia, within walkable distance of most of Madrid’s attractions
  • Bespoke Bodyna spa experiences, including Pilates and Ayurveda
  • Beautiful 19th-century building with postcard-pretty park views


Right beside the Puerta de Alcalá and on the northwest corner of Retiro Park, you won’t find a better placed boutique hotel in the Spanish capital than Hospes Madrid. Near the upmarket Barrio de Salamanca and nested in a network of boutique-rich streets, the hotel boasts towering ceilings, oversize wooden doors, and moody modern lighting. You come for the location, but you stay for the style.

Smith Extra

Here's what you get for booking Hospes Madrid with us:

Drinks on arrival and a 20-minute massage for one person


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Need To Know


41, including six suites.


Midday. Later check-out depends on availability.


Double rooms from $188.07 (€168), excluding tax at 10 per cent.

More details

Rates exclude breakfast (€22) .

At the hotel

Spa with Jacuzzi, hammam, gym, and hair salon, library, free WiFi throughout, valet parking (€35 a day, plus VAT). In rooms: flatscreen TV, minibar, Korres toiletries.

Our favourite rooms

Go for one of the Deluxe suites overlooking Retiro Park and the Puerta de Alcalá – these have towering ceilings and a bathroom concealed behind a cunningly designed panel, making the room look deceptively open-plan. The four Duplex Suites have the best views of Madrid, although the bedrooms themselves are up in the eaves so the rooms don’t have the same high-ceilinged grandeur.


The Bodyna Spa has a slender, white-tiled hydrotherapy pool, bathed in soothing candlelight.

Packing tips

Everything’s so nearby even the highest heels won’t prove too problematic, so go all out with the glam footwear. That applies to men too; a lot of the places nearby will turn away chaps toting trainers.


Cots are available free; extra beds for older children are €100 a night (plus VAT). Babysitting costs around €15 an hour and should be requested when booking. The hotel will also prepare packed lunches and heat milk/food on request.

Food & Drink

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Hotel Restaurant

One of the stars in Madrid’s culinary sky, the hotel’s award-winning Independencia restaurant on the ground floor is a striking modernist space dominated by bright whites and charcoal tones, with striking views to Puerta de Alcala and Retiro Park. Fish features prominently on the menu; try the warm salad of scallops with caramelised mango and the roasted monkfish with saffron gratin. Take a seat at the tapas bar to enjoy small plates of homemade croquetas, pork-tripe carpaccio or foie gras and chocolate bites.

Hotel Bar

The hotel’s mezzanine lounge is an elegant oak-panelled affair, with leather Chesterfields, overhanging art deco reading lamps and modern art on the walls. You can also take drinks outside on the cosy wooden patio.

Last orders

Dinner is available until the kitchen closes at 11pm. Drinks are poured until 1am.

Room service


Smith Insider

Dress code

Senzone’s definitely a venue for a wear-a-jacket dining – dress to impress.

Top table

In the summertime, you can fight the Madrid who’s who brigade for a street-side spot at the tapas bar. There’s no preferable table in the restaurant, but up in the lounge bar there are a few high tables for two that overlook the hotel’s atrium.

Local Guide

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Eat, drink, see, do: local favourites and more…

Worth getting out of bed for

Madrid's Prado Museum may nab all the cultural limelight, but the glass and steel modern art gallery La Reina Sofia (+34 91 774 1000) on Calle Santa Isabel gives it a run for its money, with a high-calibre permanent collection featuring Picasso, Dalí, and Miró. The privately owned Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza (+34 91 420 3944) is also close to the hotel on Paseo del Prado and houses an inspiring collection of works spanning several centuries, from Gothic to Pop Art.

Local restaurants

Style-conscious gatronomes will be delighted to find Phillippe Starck-designed Ramses (+34 91 435 1666) right next door to Hospes Madrid. The city's in-crowd have got their feet in the door and their names on the waiting list – make sure you book at least three weeks in advance if you want the bistro. The more informal area, Petit, overlooks the in-demand cocktail bar, and is ideal for intimate tête à têtes. Also nearby, on Calle de Valensuela, Le Garage (+34 91 522 6197) is at the forefront of the city's Japanese cuisine scene – call two weeks beforehand and book for the first sitting at 9.30pm. 

Local cafés

In the heart of upmarket Salamanca on Calle de Velazquez, La Paninoteca d'E (+34 91 426 3816) is the brainchild of Michelin-starred chef Sergi Arola and it's perfect place for the perfect sandwich,  salad (from foie gras and mango to bacon, rocket and walnuts), or plate of jamón ibérico and a bottle of rosé. Definitely one to head for if you've missed the strict 2pm–4pm Spanish lunching hours of if you fancy a mid-shopping aperitif.

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Mid-Madrid Retiro Park-side

Hospes Madrid

3 Plaza de la Independencia, Madrid, 28001


The nearest airport is Madrid Barajas, a 20-minute drive from the hotel. A private limousine service is available for around €110; a regular taxi into central Madrid will cost around €30. There’s a frequent metro service from the airport to the city centre (line 8, from terminal two), and buses run every 10 minutes to Plaza de Colon. Both buses and trains cost around €2 for a single journey.


The hotel is 2km from the nearest train station, Madrid Atocha, which is serviced by Renfe (, and has easy high-speed links to Barcelona and Seville.


The best way to explore the narrow streets of central Madrid is by foot, or on the excellent bus and metro services. It costs less than €7 for a 10-trip Metrobus ticket, and taxis are reasonably priced, too. If you do decide to bring a car, the hotel offers a valet parking service for €35 a day.


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Hospes Madrid
Hospes Madrid 3 Plaza de la Independencia Madrid 28001 Madrid Spain

Anonymous review

by , Restless writer at Condé Nast Traveller

Rating: 10/10 stars
Javier was keen to show us around. Neatly tailored in black, goofy in a good-looking way and ‘with a touch of the Nicolas Cages about him’ according to Mrs Smith, he whisks us about the building. Like first-time buyers we trail in his wake, across smooth granite and dark floorboards, admiring the library, smoking room and courtyard patio. Eventually he opens the door to our room. It is…
Read more

Hospes Madrid

Anonymous review by Rick Jordan, Restless writer

Javier was keen to show us around. Neatly tailored in black, goofy in a good-looking way and ‘with a touch of the Nicolas Cages about him’ according to Mrs Smith, he whisks us about the building. Like first-time buyers we trail in his wake, across smooth granite and dark floorboards, admiring the library, smoking room and courtyard patio. Eventually he opens the door to our room. It is celestial white, spacious and serene, the daylight luminous behind negligée drapes. A stage-set screen conceals twin marble basins and the elegant scoop of a bath. Outside are sun-dappled trees and the grand arches of the historic Puerta de Alcalá, upon which burly cherubim affect indifference to the cars below. I glance at Mrs Smith, and she nods: we’ll take it.

Javier’s smile droops for a moment. ‘You may,’ he says, choosing his words carefully, ‘hear a little noise tonight…’


‘You see, Real Madrid are playing this evening, and if they win the championship the whole city will be on the streets.’  

In the event, we decide to join the hordes, in spirit at least, and even the nocturnal honk of roaming vehicles much later on doesn’t disturb our sleep, cosseted as we are by numerous cocktails and a bed not that much smaller than a football pitch. Our evening starts with vodka and tonics in the cool Hospes Madrid courtyard, where golden lions spout water into a stone trough and the cry of tropical birds erupts from a hidden speaker. We join in, making wah-wah chimpanzee noises before heading out into the evening. Mrs Smith once lived in Madrid, and is impatient to see how her old haunts have survived; we graze Hemingway-style on jamon and manchego in tiled bars and pavement cafes, and end up at the Penthouse, an open-air bar high above Plaza de Santa Ana with a floodlit minaret that acts as a beacon against the night sky. Clutching our black mojitos, we gaze down at the crowded square below. We’re home by 3am – early by Madrileño standards, but we don’t want to entirely miss out on the morning.  

I had neglected to tell Mrs Smith, but the next day I was hoping to see the Madrid of early Pedro Almodóvar films: that shady demi-mondaine populated by wayward nuns, impassioned mothers, mascara-smeared queens and other flamboyant characters – voluptuous, raven-haired women a little like Penelope Cruz, for instance, although I wasn’t fussy. Instead, after breakfast, we go for a bicycle ride in the park.
Spain is, I’ve noticed, one of the few places where it’s socially acceptable to drink beer for breakfast, even for those without a park bench to call their own. A little cana or two with your bocadillo is, I think, a most civilised way to start the day. At Hospes Madrid, though, I stick to fresh coffee, and gather an eccentric plateful of cheese, chocolate pastries and smoked salmon from the breakfast buffet – I’ll save the scrambled eggs and pan con tomate for tomorrow. We pick up our bikes – sturdy upright steeds with baskets and helmets – from outside the lobby and push off. Across the road is the Retiro park, which makes staying at the Hospes the equivalent of staying in Knightsbridge or Manhattan’s Upper West Side. It is, Mrs Smith decides as we pedal past coiffured old ladies on benches and babies in prams, a very Mary Poppins sort of park. A fortune teller sets up stall at one entrance; in the distance an accordion player wheezes away. All that’s missing are a man selling balloons and a boy with a wooden hoop. We could ride down to the Prado or Reina Sofia galleries, which aren’t far; but we haven’t had sun on our skins like this for months, so we skim past fountains and through wooded copses, branching off diagonally along clipped hedges and ornamental borders.

Back at the Hospes Madrid, we catch our breath in the library. It has the right sort of library-ish gravitas, with liquorice-black chesterfields and wood-lined panels, as well as modern touches in the art and the tall, bowl-headed floorlights, which peer over as if curious to see what you’re reading. This 19th-century townhouse has kept its best original features, such as the ornate iron balconies and staircase; the rest is pure black and white simplicity, broken by firework bursts of fresh flowers, silver-grey Louis XV furniture, and chandeliers glowing inside metallic lampshades.

We have massages booked in the spa, but first we relax in the warm, subterranean pool, which is too small for swimming but great for bobbing. It has two special buttons: one for the Jacuzzi and another that, if you time it right, will send a sheet of water cascading over your unsuspecting partner’s head. After I get duly soaked in return we cloak ourselves in towels and head for our treatment and then a late lunch upstairs; the gourmet restaurant was closed last night, a Sunday, and we want to treat ourselves. We’re led into part of the building we’d missed before, tucked behind the courtyard (Hospes Madrid is small but holds its secrets well) and suddenly the spell is broken: we no longer have the hotel to ourselves – here are attentive waiters, and other people dining. Over tender slices of sea bass and veal we plan our evening: a flamenco concert at Casa Patas, then maybe jazz at Café Central.

That’s what we like about this hotel, it provides you with an immaculate thinking space. No one comes to Madrid to lie around a hotel all day – there are so many distractions – but the Hospes Madrid is so peaceful and calm we had to pinch ourselves that there was a big, loud city out there. We didn’t feel we were missing out by whiling away an hour in the courtyard, or sprawled on the chaise longue in our room. And even several thousand Real Madrid fans couldn’t shift us.

The Guestbook

Whenever you book a stay at a Smith hotel with us, we'll invite you to review it when you get back. Read what other Smith members have to say about Hospes Madrid in the Guestbook below…


Stayed on

We loved

The aroma in reception and the warm welcome by Lucas

Don’t expect

Good wifi

Rating: 9/10 stars


Stayed on

We loved

I loved this hotel - great customer service fantastic location , amazing room -could not fault my time there . Would go back tomorrow.

Don’t expect

It is a great location but on a very busy roundabout. If you want a fab view there is road noise but this is a small price to pay.

Rating: 10/10 stars


Stayed on

We loved

We found it to be very welcoming with lovely helpful staff - Lucas and Lucia in particular.

Don’t expect

The spa and pool are in the basement and didn't look very inviting to me.

Rating: 8/10 stars


Stayed on

We loved

I enjoyed the quiet wonderful spa, location and the concierge's restaurant recommandations.

Rating: 7/10 stars


Stayed on

We loved

The location was great - very convenient to get to the museums and to the nice Salamanca neighborhood, as well as most restaurants that we went to.

Don’t expect

The room lacked a view - all windows looked out onto air shafts. And we were on the top floor, too! At least it was quiet.

Rating: 7/10 stars