Grande Provence

Our stay at Grande Provence seems to coincide with the arrival of autumn. It's wet and cold outside, and the Franschhoek mountains are shrouded behind thick cloud; yet I’m snug and cosy, nestled on a sofa in the communal lounge of my ‘cottage’, close to a roaring fire with a cup of steaming rooibos. The weather may not be what I expected for my two days in the Western Cape’s Winelands, but I’m perfectly content.

Mr Smith and I arrived late morning, greeted by misty mountains and a very welcome early check-in: laden down with luggage, we were pleasantly surprised to be ushered immediately into our room, despite our early arrival. We’re staying in the Owner’s Cottage, home to five of Grande Provence’s guestrooms. The aforementioned lounge, complete with extensive library, wood-burning stove and a bottle of help-yourself port may be shared with the other guests, but (other than over breakfast, and the very helpful staff occasionally popping in to offer us a hot drink and to stoke the fire) we don’t see a soul during our stay. It feels like our very own sanctuary. 

If the weather had been on our side, we’d have likely relocated to the covered terrace beside the pool, where another fire awaits for chilly nights spent stargazing. As it is, intermittent rain and gale-force winds dominate our stay, to the shock of the staff who tell us we’ve arrived to the worst weather they’ve had in a year. Between downpours, we leave the comfort of the fire to explore the sprawling estate. Accommodation is grouped together a short walk from the estate's restaurants, gallery and wine-tasting room. Guests can request a very quick transfer by car or, as we do during the daytime, choose to wander among the vines. We meander up and down, in search of our favourite grapes (sauvignon blanc for me, merlot for Mr Smith) and discover that the leaves of red wine grapes turn red in the autumn, while those of white wine grapes turn yellow. Who knew?

Our first evening, we are driven over to The Oak, the fancier of the estate’s two restaurants for dinner. We both opt for the three-course menu, Mr Smith adding on the wine pairing — all in the name of research, of course. Settled in what seems to be the best seat in the house (request the fire-side table on chilly evenings), we’re warmed by yet another roaring fire as we dine. Tucking into plates almost too pretty to eat (my beetroot starter is a masterpiece worthy of the gallery next door), we enjoy the unique opportunity to sample wine on the very estate where the grapes are grown. Mr Smith deems the Grande Provence Red his favourite, with its blend of grapes providing a unique flavour that complement his blesbok main course. 

On Saturday morning, we embark on our complimentary wine-tasting, which is included for all overnight guests. The estate produces a range of wines, from crisp whites to full-bodied reds; you can choose between its Angels Tears line, classic premium wines and extra-special flagship blends. Grande Provence is on the Franschhoek wine-tram route, with a steady flow of visitors adding a buzzy atmosphere to the tasting room. We hadn’t booked, yet were immediately offered a spot at the bar, where a knowledgeable sommelier talked us through the three wines we’d each be tasting. My wines were accompanied by a nougat pairing; Mr Smith went for golgappa (a crispy chickpea-based street food), filled with local delicacies of biltong, snoek (a species of mackerel) and milk tart. Oyster and biltong pairings are also available, outside of the complimentary options. I’m no wine connoisseur, and can’t taste the promised pencil shavings in the chardonnay, but I do pick up notes of lychee in the muscat blanc. We enjoy ourselves so much, we order large glasses of our favourite tipples to sip while wandering around the sculpture garden.

Curated by Pieter Lategan, The Gallery at Grande Provence is a destination of its own, presenting contemporary South African art, indoors and out. We have a quick peek inside, but dedicate our time to admiring how the outdoor sculptures juxtapose with the greenery in the garden. Anton Smit’s work particularly catches my eye: towering nudes and textured masks crafted from a range of materials including stone and metals. We’re feeling very fancy, sauntering around sculptures with our glasses of wine. Later, we enjoy lunch in the Bistro, Grande Provence’s more casual daytime restaurant, which does a mean mushroom and kimchi burger. 

To my delight, the weather brightens up in the late afternoon, when we stroll around the wider estate admiring the majestic vistas of mountains in every direction. Shadows of crinkled autumn leaves dance on the Cape Dutch architecture and the iconic ‘Franschhoek’ sign on the mountain is now visible as the clouds have drifted. We walk until the sun begins to set, taking in the scenery. That evening, huddled once again by the fire sipping port, we reflect on how the weather may not have been ideal, but at least we’ve stumbled upon the cosiest autumnal getaway in the Winelands.