A former farmhouse on a rambling, romantic estate, Finca Serena is right in the middle of Mallorca. Here, you’ll spend your nights either in main house or tucked away in one of the secluded standalone suites scattered around the arboreal acreage. And as for your days, they’ll be whiled away sedately post spa treatment (the hammocks on the veranda will soon swing you to sleep) or, if you’re feeling a little more energetic, spent on the treadmill, since even the gym benefits from bucolic views around here. Either way, as evening draws in, restaurant Jacaranda has a farm-to-table focus, with local producers ensuring that said farm won’t be very far; for a special treat, sign up to one of the weekly suppers, held under the stars out in the vineyard.
Get this when you book through us:
A welcome drink each on arrival and, subject to availability, late check-out
11am, but flexible, subject to availability. Earliest check-in, 3pm, also flexible on request.
Double rooms from £422.66 (€495), including tax at 10 per cent. Please note the hotel charges an additional local city tax of €2.20 per person per night on check-out.
Rates usually include breakfast.
If you prefer to not let the pounds pile on while on holiday, this is the finca for you: there are Technogym machines at the gym, yoga, Pilates and tai chi classes are held daily in the gardens or on a terrace, and various running and hiking trails are ready to be conquered.
Though Finca Serena is usually adults-only, they have amended their policy for 2021 – if you'd like to bring little Smiths along, there's now a limited amount of availablity on request but you'll need to let the hotel know in advance. There's a charge of €150 a night (including breakfast and taxes) for children aged 4-12 to sleep on a sofa bed in the Garden Suites; if children share a bed with their parents, there's a charge of €30 a day (including taxes) for breakfast. A few baby cots are available to borrow, free of charge.
1 November to 28 February.
At the hotel
Free WiFi throughout, gym, valet parking. In rooms: air-conditioning, minibar, tea and coffee kit, free bottled water and Finca Serena bath products.
Our favourite rooms
The rooms are scattered across the main house and standalone suites around the grounds. SAD sufferers should go for a light-flooded Junior Suite; number 8 in this category has sloping ceilings and bucolic views delivered straight to your bed. The Garden Suites have private, estate-showcasing terraces. We also love secluded Deluxe Garden Room 18, which is reached through a woodland-flanked path, for its vineyard-facing terrace; and the roomy, sundowner-ready terrace in Room 22. For those who like to swing cats, be warned that Room 25 is the smallest.
There are two: a heated one at the spa, and one in front of the main building, perfectly positioned for admiring the countryside mid-front crawl. Shade-seekers can hide out in the pergola; sunloungers are there for the sun-worshippers. Both pools are open between 9am and 9pm.
The cows have been moved along to make room for the spa in their spacious former shed, which is surrounded by palm trees. From the indoor pool or a hammock on the veranda, you can enjoy post- or pre-treatment views of the island’s central plains and the monastery-topped Puig de Randa mountain. Natura Bissé treatments, a fireplace, sauna and hammam await.
Bring trail-ready trainers and/or sensible shoes for hermitage-hunting hikes.
One of the Deluxe Garden Rooms is suitable for wheelchair users; the spa and outdoor pool are also accessible.
This one’s for fully grown Smiths only.
The finca has a kitchen garden and orchards supplying much of the produce; the rest is sourced locally. Solar power is used to heat water, and local building materials were used in the design.
Request a table on the fairy-light-adorned terrace to gaze out across the Mallorcan plains and their neighbouring mountain and monastery for peak romance levels.
Breezy and Balearic.
Jacaranda is named for the trees that line the driveway leading to the hotel (though on that basis it could easily have been called Olive, Cypress, Palm, Lemon or Orange). You’ll find it right by the garden, with panoramic picture windows framing the countryside for when it’s too cool to be out on the pool-facing terrace. At night, the terraces and trees are strewn with fairy lights. The chef sources produce from three different organic vegetable gardens, and changes the menu daily based on what’s available. Once a week, special suppers are held in the vineyard. Breakfast is served in the old farm kitchen.
There’s no definitive bar, but drinks are served throughout the estate, including in the chimney room. Be sure to try one of the award-winning local gins – and watch this space for estate-made wine, coming out of a vineyard near you soon.
Breakfast is served from 8am until 11am; lunch hours are 1pm to 4pm; and dinner service is between 7.30pm and 10pm.
Salads, sandwiches and a selection of ‘boards’ (cheese, charcuterie, smoked seafood) can be served in-room.
The hotel is smack-bang in the middle of Mallorca, right on the (beautiful, bucolic) bull’s eye.
Palma’s airport is a 20-minute (25-kilometre) drive from the property. Hotel transfers cost €85 each way.
The station at Sineu is closest, a 15-minute drive away, from where you can catch a train to Palma. This is some photogenic island, so you’re own set of wheels will come in handy. Transfers are €85 each way.
It’s a 25-minute drive into Palma. There’s free valet parking at the hotel.
Worth getting out of bed for
Once you’ve participated in one of the daily classes (yoga, Pilates, tai chi), walked, jogged or cycled the trail that circles the estate (or further afield), you can check out the weekly markets in the neighbouring villages of Sineu, Montuïri and Porreres, head out on horseback or tour the finca’s vineyards. There are lots of lovely sandy spots on Mallorca, but Son Serra de Marina is dune-flanked and especially unspoilt. Charter a helicopter for a dream day-trip, whether you want to fly over the island’s coastline with regular champagne breaks or drop in at a country hotel for lunch.Ascend the Puig de Randa, the island’s second-most famous mountain (after the Serra de Tramuntana), at the top of which you’ll be rewarded with a visit to the Santuari de Cura, a lofty monastery that has been hanging out up there since 1275.
Almost every restaurant in Mallorca serves pa amb oli (literally ‘bread with olive oil’), but few do it better than the local-favoured, low-frill Restaurante S'Hostal at 58 Carrer de Palma, where it comes with thinly sliced Iberico ham, cheese and piquant peppers. It’s a 30-minute drive to Smith stablemate Cap Rocat’s Sea Club, but worth it for the leisurely lunches, feasting on dishes from the traditional firewood grill. In an old warehouse on Gran Via Colom, Sa Fàbrica offers seasonal food, slick service and a Top Chef Spain-winning cook, who mans the flames from an open kitchen so you can watch. For fine-dining fare from a Buenos Aires by way of Paris, London and Moscow chef, book in at Adrián Quetglas in Palma, where the flower-adorned food is almost too pretty to eat.
Brassclubon Passeig de Mallorca in Palma claims the prize for the most creative cocktails on the island – especially if you like your muddles to be inspired by foodstuffs, from burritos to baklava (yes, really).
Two things I know about the hotel scene in Mallorca. Firstly, that it is blow-up-your-Instagram-feed attractive. Secondly, that to get to the most picturesque parts of it you need to travel – usually via a wingmirror-skimming near-miss with a tourist bus on a mountain, then doing five-point turns around some hairpin bends. So, when Google Maps said that Finca Serena was only 22 minutes from Palma Airport, on a road that looked straight and, wait for it, flat, all I could think was: how Mallorquin can this place really be?
With the journey presenting zero opportunities to complain about Mr Smith’s driving, we arrive at Finca Serena – the charmingly titled ‘serene farmhouse’ – in a mindset akin to its name. The winding driveway coasts past olive trees and a tucked-away spa. Then you’re welcomed at your car by staff who swap your car keys for cavas and guide you to a sun-speckled patio to sip them. As for check-in? You’ll get around to it. Priority no.1 here is thrashing the urban body-clock out of you and letting a sleepier pace seep in. Quietly observing the views from that patio – of the misty hills of the Pla de Mallorca region, plus the swimming pool, the hero shot, down below – is all part of the serenity-finding process.
The vibe is a Spanish-island take on Soho Farmhouse. Minus the chintz. Outside, the building captures the unshowy essence of a Mediterranean farmhouse: earthy stonework, freshly painted shutters and weighty boughs of magenta bougainvillea. Inside, too, there’s a minimalism that deliberately doesn’t tax your attention levels – there are natural materials (hessian carpets and linen cushions), imperfect-looking handmade ceramics, reclaimed wooden tables, a chessboard. Even the bedrooms, which feel more industrial – all brushed concrete floors and iron fixtures – are done to create Zen. I know nothing about Feng Shui, but I’d say the force is strong here (if I’m not confusing it with Star Wars).
If your quest to serenity takes an early setback with the familiar cry of, ‘But what shall we do now?’ there are options. Relaxing ones though, naturally. The hotel has a schedule of mindfulness and yoga sessions, as well as immersive retreats by Barcelona-based yogi Veronica Blume, a mum and model who’s one of the biggest names in Spain’s fitness scene. Three running routes have also been interwoven into the 40-hectare grounds – a vast, rugged, recently nurtured site that will become even more beautiful with time. The newly planted grape vines have just started to bed in (varieties of callet, monastrell, giró ros and prensal blanc grapes will one day create a Finca Serena wine), while fig and pomegranate trees pop up around the site, posing plumply like they’re waiting for an M&S photoshoot.
For urbanites in cold-turkey mode, there’s even a boutique with a small but interesting edit of retail titillation: patterned kimonos by French brand La Cabane de Stella, Finca Serena’s own olive oil, sunglasses and reading glasses from Izipizi, plus chunky chains for your specs by Orris London. With all that talk of glasses, it’s safe to say that you’ll finally make progress on that reading list. And, yes: there’s plenty of action for glasses that hold liquid-based delights, too.
While you will have to wait to taste the vinous tipples produced on-site, the acreage is already reaping food – served in the hotel’s sleek-but-unstuffy restaurant, Jacaranda. Six-course tasting menus change daily (a clever way to avoid repetition given that all other restaurant options are a drive away), and the food really is a delight. Our pumpkin and miso soup was delicate and satisfying; the John Dory came nestled in buttery, juicy watercress; but the hands-down highlight (well, spoons-down) was dessert – a fig tarte tatin that was as sweet as jam, as addictive as Netflix, and as sticky as all those things that your mum told you never to wipe on the furniture.
The spa here, with its heated pool and lounger-filled deck beside palm trees, is also well worth a visit. I’ll level with you: if there’s a choice between sunshine or being shut in a spa room, those vitamin D rays will have me 9.9 times out of 10. But a knotted shoulder, annoying to the point that it stopped me dreaming about going again with the fig tarte tatin, sent me in search of a pummelling. Even though the spa was about to close, they squeezed me in, and then squeezed out my knots through a semi-torturous but utterly delightful 30 minutes of horizontal time. I indulged in that rare act of doing absolutely nothing and, frankly, it was wonderful. Some might even say serene.