Esmé Miami Beach Hotel

I was a bit hesitant to take an impromptu getaway to Miami, given that my only reference point for the city as a child of the 1980s was Miami Vice. I was picturing big hair, tiny bikinis, muscle shirts, and neon; flashing lights, with thumping club music. I’m pleased to report, however, that Esmé Miami Beach Hotel taught me a new way to think about South Beach. 

As a filmmaker, in town for my premiere at a film festival, I wanted to stay somewhere that felt both calm and celebratory – when I learned that Española Way, where the hotel is housed, was once a bohemian artists’ colony, with frequent visitors like Desi Arnaz, it felt like kismet.

Amid the lively chatter and music on Española Way (itself a popular film and television
location), Esmé’s entrance is discreet. Upon entering it’s quiet and calm, and the cool emerald tones and whimsical, constellation-decorated walls give you the sense that you can drown out the noise if you let yourself become fully immersed.

We walked to our room, escorted by a very friendly bellboy who was happy to carry our bags through the sticky Miami heat. I took note of the lush flowers and greenery that I’d be back to examine closer (and grab a selfie with) after the sun went down. Rooms are either set in Esmé Village or Matanza House, and Mr Smith and I had opted for one of the former, with a balcony, of course, to – literally – heighten our experience. The Matanza rooms and suites sit on Drexel Avenue, but we chose the Village side of the property to be immersed in the liveliness of palm-tree lined Española Way...and so that I could live out my Romeo and Juliet fantasies while the sounds of Spanish music played below. 

The room itself was painted in the same deep, rich green colour, with a mahogany
headboard and wardrobe, so we felt like we were sleeping in a serene jungle. We set the air-conditioning to high and headed out in search of cocktails and dinner. We didn’t have to travel far, walking to the end of the block to enjoy dinner at the Drexel, the hotel’s official restaurant, built in the 1920s and located on the corner of the surrounding village. 

We scanned the variety of small plates and Mediterranean-inspired choices, but got excited about the wood-and-charcoal-fired dishes, including perfectly browned pizzas and crispy veggies – and the tequila-based drinks, of course. I had been craving a paloma as soon as I touched down in Florida, and their version (which included a dash of sherry), hit the spot. 
It had been several hours since we last ate – so we decided to really go for it and ordered everything from the bread, freshly baked in-house, to the delicately sliced tuna carpaccio, with the crispy fried cauliflower, and wood–roasted eggplant…and that was just to start. By the time the spaghetti al limone and gorgonzola and mushroom pizza arrived we were starting to fill up – but it would have been a shame to miss out on tasting the homemade Italian specialties.

The food coma helped us drift off to sleep in the large, comfortable king-size bed – although it should be noted that should you decide to stay on Española Way, as we did, that the music that earlier felt dreamily romantic, becomes a bit annoying after you turn in for the night, so be sure to pack earplugs. The next day I woke early to attend my film premiere. Luckily Esmé is within walking distance of a hair salon and the natural light from the balcony is more than enough to assist in doing my make-up. And a hand-steamer is promptly delivered for my dress by housekeeping. 

After a long, successful day of flashbulbs, heels, and congratulations, Mr Smith and I agree that what we need next is simple: a view of the ocean. We quickly change and head across the street to the strip of beach reserved for Esmé guests, for which we grab the towels and chairs provided by the hotel and settle in to watch the sunset and enjoy the sound of the waves. The premiere was a success, but so is our happy hour by the sea. 

On our final morning, we decided to have breakfast beside the rooftop pool, which is exclusive to guests. At around 9am, we were virtually the only hotel occupants awake, so
easily snagged a mini cabana with a retractable shade for ourselves. The pool deck might be one of my favourite parts of Esmé – brightly coloured, clean, inviting and comfortable, with poolside service. I took both my iced coffee and my brunch spritz into the heated pool, while waiting for my breakfast quesadilla to arrive with a side of chicken sausage and fresh fruit. As I floated lazily, alternating between caffeine and a light cocktail, I realised why so many films and TV shows had been made about Miami – for all its vices, it has many virtues, too.