Concepció by Nobis

A hotel’s façade is, in the opinion of Mr Smith and I, absolutely critical. Thankfully, Concepció by Nobis ticked both the Mallorcan old town and Swedish-simplicity boxes: the front of white-washed walls, jade-green shutters and charcoal-black framed glass windows made for a promising start to our stay. Nay, a very promising start. And the alluring aesthetics continued from here. Beautiful green and white oversized tiles run through the reception, stone archways frame the restaurant tables, and taller-than-thou plants hug each well-lit corner. 

We’d arrived in Palma in December – which might raise some questions, so I’ll address them here. Yes, there was sun. No, I did not pack enough layers for the cooler days. Yes, the roads were wonderfully quiet. No, we did not yearn for the thrum of the Balearic summer. Yes, some of the restaurants were closed (here’s looking at you, Ca's Patró March). No, I did not get a tan. Yes, I would visit again at that time of year. No, I did not pack enough layers. 

Anyhow, on to check-in. First up was a quick peek at the pool – and what a pool it is. December certainly wasn’t sunbathing weather, but that’s not to say that the courtyard plunger didn’t get an ‘ooooh’ and ‘aaah’ – Roman steps, wicker chairs and candy-striped loungers will do that to us. Back inside, and up a few floors, we find our room. I love a high ceiling (despite my lack of, well, height) and our executive room had them in spades – along with beautiful black ceiling beams, rattan chairs, a jade-green sofa and ample natural light. But the toiletries were the fragrant cherry-on-top: Byredo (gulp) Mojave Ghost body wash and Sundazed eau de parfum can be found in the Scandi-inspired bathroom – that is, if I didn’t run their stock dry. 

Having dropped our bag (singular, as Mr Smith always opts for the ‘I’ll just bring a few things and put them in yours’ approach – a tendency which has had us skirting the maximum baggage allowance on multiple occasions), we ventured down to the restaurant. A hearty breakfast spread was laid out on the thick marble centre table. Plates of local cheese, cold meats, fresh pastries and fruits were piled high onto plates, followed by an ‘all-in’ cooked-to-order omelette fresh from the kitchen. A latte con leche de avena was requested; a latte con leche de avena was received (a sign, if any, of a promising day ahead). 

Never ones for resting on laurels or the like, Mr Smith swiftly sorted us a Honda CB500X through nearby Vintage Motors, and we were off. Mallorca’s roads are exceptional. Sa Calobra saw Scotland’s Bealach na Bà, and raised it better views, fewer caravans and longer, windier descents. If you, too, are the road-tripping type then here’s a pocket-sized guide for you: drive up to Deià via Valldemossa, down to cala Deià, then head south-west, passing through Banyalbufar and Estellencs, following the coastal road back to Palma. On day two, go north to Sóller, Fornalutx, Sa Calobra and Pollença. There’s more to say, but my editor would tell me I’m rambling, which I probably am. 

Well-travelled roads very well travelled (thank you, trusty Honda), we headed back to the hotel for dinner. But first, a schvitz in the very Scandi-style hotel sauna (useful, too, for thawing out post mountainous motorbike ride). Dinner started well – with an exceptional local white, recommended by the in-house sommelier. It was plain sailing from there – each and every dish wowed. Despite having eaten north of 20 croquettes already this holiday, Mr Smith insisted on ordering a plate to start – a move that paid off, thanks to the high-quality local produce favoured by the chef. For me, it was the arrós brut gyoza and oxtail ravioli that hit the spot, but for my fellow food-loving companion, the chicken cannelloni was the dish. Mid first mouthful, Mr Smith looked up, eyes wide, and told me this might just be his favourite meal ever. Do with that what you will. 

By check-out, it’s fair to say that we were well fed, watered (minibars are my weakness) and ready to tackle the forthcoming festive period with renewed gusto.