Click Clack Hotel Medellín

Worth getting out of bed for

Medellín is a city powering forward, where skyscrapers vie for loftiness with the mountains sheltering the Aburra Valley it occupies and an innate go-go-go-ness (whether the local paisa are working or playing) keeps this dynamo’s energy high and makes its troubled past seem like a distant memory. El Poblado neighbourhood where the hotel is set is perhaps most emblematic of Medellín’s drive; it’s certainly the city’s coolest, thronged with indie boutiques, picnicking parks, myriad restaurants, and vivacious bars and discotecas blaring reggaetón – here’s where in-the-know locals and tourists alike come to let their hair down. At the hotel you can kick things off with a leisurely swim on the roof terrace, and from up here you’ll get the lay of the land. Then muse over the modern Colombian and Latin American works in onsite art gallery La Cometa before furthering your knowledge at the Medellín Modern Art Museum and Lokkus Arte Contemporáneo. Medellín’s most infamous son, cartel leader Pablo Escobar, may be long dead (indeed, his gravesite in Itagüi is still causing controversy – an outcry was had when rapper Wiz Khalifa laid flowers on it in an alleged homage), but his (larger than) life and staggering wealth (around $30 billion at his peak) still hold some sway in the city. See artefacts from his empire at the Casa Museo Pablo Escobar, and take a day trip to his crumbling countryside estate, Hacienda Nápoles, where you can play paintball in his former stables if you wish. The Memory House Museum offers a more sobering look at Colombian conflicts, and the art deco Museo de Antioquia winds the clock back further. After delving into such a gritty history, go green and find leafy respite at the Jardín Botánico, which has striking pavilions, a butterfly house, cactus garden and Orchideorama – home to rare varieties. And close to the hotel you can pick up snacky things and spread a blanket out in Parque Lineal La Presidenta (on Sundays the farmer’s market is set up next door) or lively El Poblado Park, where there are art installations and often screenings or fairy-lit parties. Be sure to hire a bike too: Sundays are reserved for Ciclovía, where parts of the roads are shut down to encourage people to bike or walk about. For unique souvenirs, Makeno Concept Store showcases the work of paisa artisans, from fashion to ceramics to jewellery; but locals also love rummaging through the flea markets at San Fernando Plaza and Parque Bolivar. Comuna 13 – a sprawl of former slums to the west of the city – was once its poorest and most dangerous barrio, but its transformation into a thriving, diverse community has been drastic – and, thankfully for both the residents and tourists who don’t want to climb hundreds of steps – its infrastructure has been boosted by escalators and lifts. Most tours focus on the dynamic and message-laden graffiti art that scrawls through its streets; the hotel can help you to book. To get yet another view on the city, try from up above on the cable-cars that run along lines J, K and L. And, if you have a day or two to spare, head out to see how Colombia’s turbo-powered coffee is made with a visit to a plantation, or go to Guatapé to climb the 649 steps to the top of rock formation El Peñón before unwinding with watersports. On request, the hotel can organise private helicopter rides and tours focused on culture, flowers and history.

Local restaurants

The essence of true Colombian cuisine is hard to nail, but its past is entrenched in worker roots, using hearty, hardy dishes to energise those toiling away in the mountainous climes, add in some Creole influence, abundance from the tropical landscape and a strong barbacoa tradition, and you might end up at the word sabrosura, which roughly translates to ‘delightfulness’ – it’s what the locals say anyways. A new crop of chefs aim to show off the country’s edible treasures and revive pre-Hispanic recipes. Take Tal Cual, where prawns come in an edible ‘watercolour’ of smashed avo, lima beans and sauce; beef neck comes very slowly cooked and served on corn arepa purée; and you can order up a platter of various tiraditos and ceviches. Carmen lets the chef do the heavy lifting when it comes to choices, with a seven-course tasting menu. Its Cordon Bleu-trained, Cali-hailing owners might serve you ember-roasted cauliflower with yucca and turmeric curry; wild duck with parsnip, passionfruit, granadilla relish and farmer’s cheese; or crab rice soaked in a citrus bisque and green sugar-cane liquor; but here the flavours of the month are all exciting. At El Cielo, dishes such as ice-cream made using Achira biscuits, with a cheese arepa, spinach emulsion and potato; and scallop tartare with cauliflower puree, corn nuts and Bloody Mary sorbet in a tomatillo and jalapeño soup, arrive looking like trays of moon rocks and gemstones, invariably textured, smoking or just deliciously otherworldly. On the more casual side of things, pizzeria Zorba knows how to top up with the likes of spinach with pistachio, caramelised onions and macadamia cream; or sundried tomatoes steeped in red wine with Monterey Jack, feta and honey.

Local cafés

Yes, Medellín is gaining ground when it comes to elegant eateries, but Colombia’s culinary excellence comes from the streets. Just take Anthony Bourdain’s word for it – when he visited for Parts Unknown, he made a beeline for the Plaza Minorista José María Villa market, home to around 2,500 stalls, most of which sell food. Pass by the piles of tropical fruit and pungent fish and meat counters to get stuck into a plate of calentao, heaped with pot-luck leftovers intended as a breakfast for busy workers. Close to the hotel, Criminal Taqueria is renowned for putting delicious things in hand-sized wraps – get one of everything and a Gran Burro burrito for good measure. And for pastries with tropical fillings, stacked bagels and healthier brunch picks, try Rumah Soul-Up.

Local bars

El Social lives up to its name – its charmingly slapdash interiors (a terrace with rainbow tiles, seats that bear no relation to one another, spill-out-into-the-night tables) fill with good-spirited revellers looking to find the same in their drinks. Conversely, Bastardo does not live up to its name and is filled with a rather lovely crowd. Their terrace has neons and fairy lights, the margaritas are strong and they serve such a thing as a sangria tree.