Tuscany, Italy

Castello del Nero

Rates from (inc tax)$341.13

Price information

If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 21 days.

Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (EUR344.00), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.


Cosmopolitan castle


Bucolic Chianti

Castello del Nero hotel in Tuscany will have you tearing up your passport upon arrival: who’d miss home at this splendid 12th-century castle with a restful spa, elegant restaurant, basement bar and atmospheric wine cellar? Expect to walk around blinking in admiration at the mediaeval frescoes, glittering spa and very glamorous guests.


Smith Extra

Get this when you book through us:

A bottle of wine in your room. Guests staying for three nights or more get a free Espa Heat Experience; guests in a suite for three nights-plus get a three-course lunch


Photos Castello del Nero – Tuscany – Italy

Need to know


50, including 18 suites.


11am, but flexible, subject to availability. Earliest check-in, 2pm.


Double rooms from $341.13 (€313), excluding tax at 10 per cent. Please note the hotel charges an additional local city tax of €4.00 per person per night on check-out.

Price information

If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 21 days.

Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (EUR344.00), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.

More details

Rates usually include American buffet breakfast and a return shuttle service to Florence or Siena.


Just remembering this hotel’s serene spa makes us relax and breathe deeply: an outdoor heated vitality pool surrounded by greenery, whisper-quiet treatment rooms, fragrant Espa products and expert masseuses who only need to look at a knot for it to unfurl (well, sort of). Try one of the signature treatments: the Castello del Nero Relaxation Ritual; an olive oil and pink-clay head massage; the sea salt and rosemary exfoliation.

Hotel closed

7 January to 16 March, inclusive.

At the hotel

Tennis courts, 740 acres of grounds, wine cellar, spa, fitness suite, free WiFi throughout. In rooms: flatscreen TV, minibar, slippers, bathrobes, Etro bath products.

Our favourite rooms

Start saving up for one of the frescoed Deluxe Suites, whose gorgeous murals were restored under the beady-eyed supervision of the Italian Fine Art Commission. You’ll sleep in opulence, thanks to the king-size beds topped with Egyptian linen, goose-down duvets and cashmere blankets, and you’ll bathe in splendour, thanks to the shiny marble-and-mosaic bathrooms. The Deluxe doubles are a more wallet-friendly choice; choose between a room in the main castle or, for extra romance, in one of the little farmhouses that flank it.


Head for the vivid slice of aqua amid the gardens’ greenery. Trees give shade in the heat of the day; alternatively, sun worshippers can stretch out on the sleek honey-coloured tiles.

Packing tips

Watercolours and a canvas for capturing Tuscan scenes; a bottle opener for boozy picnics.


Cookery classes (for up to six) can be arranged in advance.


Small pets can come too; just let staff know when booking and bring all their essentials, as nothing’s provided. See more pet-friendly hotels in Tuscany.


This is Italy: Smith Junior won’t just be welcome, they’ll be smiled at and spoiled, and under-6s can stay for free in their parents’ room. Extra beds (€55 a night) and cots (free) can be added to some rooms. Babysitting is €20 an hour.

Food and Drink

Photos Castello del Nero – Tuscany – Italy

Top Table

Out on the Garden Terrace in summer; cosy by the fire, come winter.

Dress Code

Picture yourself sipping Chianti under the vaulted ceilings of a mediaeval castle and dress accordingly: silks, velvet and cashmere; leather; a hint of gold.

Hotel restaurant

Elegant, Michelin-star recognised La Torre is set in the former stables, but no trace of the original residents remains in the elegant zabaglione-coloured dining room, decorated with terracotta-tiled floors, arched ceilings, white-linen-topped tables and – the focal point – a grand fireplace. As you’d expect, the menu is a love-letter to Italy: ham from Casentino; piglet from Siena; Chianti snails. Dishes are rich and hearty: scallops with mashed potatoes dressed with walnut oil and white truffle from San Miniato; pigeon-breast confit with grapes cooked in a Chianti sauce; veal cheek with pumpkin foam and crispy leeks; wild boar ragù.


Hotel bar

Set in the former castle kitchens, the bar is an atmospheric space, all exposed red brick, flagstone floors and arched ceilings. Sip a local wine with a plate of cured meat and cheeses and you’ll feel like landed Tuscan gentry.


Last orders

Pile your plate with cold cuts, pastries or fruit between 7.30am and 10.30am; enjoy a lazy lunch between 12.30pm and 2.30pm; sit down for dinner between 7.30pm and 10pm. Service in the bar slows around midnight.

Room service

Disrobed and disinclined to be in public? Order food to your room across the clock: the 24-hour room service menu includes snacks and light bites such as salami, home-made bread, local cheeses and feather-light chocolate cake.


Photos Castello del Nero – Tuscany – Italy
Castello del Nero
7 Strada Spicciano
Tavarnelle Val di Pesa


Florence is the closest airport, 40km away (www.aeroporto.firenze.it). It's served by Alitalia (www.alitalia.com) and CityJet (www.cityjet.com), among others, and processes a handful of flights to European cities such as Paris, Copenhagen, Brussels and Madrid. Alternatively, fly to Pisa airport (www.pisa-airport.com) with Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) and take the direct train to Florence (a 45-minute journey) or drive.


Santa Maria Novella in Florence is the closest main station, a 30-minute drive away, served by Trenitalia (www.trenitalia.com) and the Eurostar (www.eurostar.com).


Florence is a half-hour drive away. Bring a car to this beautiful pocket of Italy: the roads are relatively clear, the pace is relaxed and you’ll want easy access to Montalcino and the Val d’Orcia. Staff can provide driving directions, and there’s plenty of free on-site parking. The hotel offers a free shuttle service to Florence and Siena.

Worth getting out of bed for

Head to Florence for its cultural bounty: the Galleria degli Uffizi (www.polomuseale.firenze.it), the Santa Maria del Fiore duomo, the church of San Lorenzo, the beautiful Boboli Gardens (www.giardinodiboboli.it) and Ponte Vecchio, which spans the river Arno. In Siena, you’ll want to admire the Palazzo Pubblico (the palatial town hall), the Duomo and the Torre del Mangia, a tower which lords it over the stately Piazza del Campo. Ask Castello’s staff, and they’ll happily sort out an itinerary for you, whether you want to embark on wine or olive oil tastings, visits to nearby farms and historic villages, go golfing on Tuscany’s most ravishing courses or discover the best of the region’s shops.


Local restaurants

Dress up for expensive Osteria di Passignano (+ 39 055 807 1278; www.osteriadipassignano.com), which serves beautifully executed Tuscan food. The menu changes with the seasons and hints at a playful chef: red mullet mille-feuille presented on an ice-cream stick with spicey soup, for example. The restaurant is on Via Passignano in Tavarnelle Val di Pesa. Osteria la Gramola (+39 055 805 0321; www.gramola.it) on Via del Fonti in Tavarnelle Val di Pesa is a cosy family-run restaurant that serves traditional Tuscan food, accompanied by perfectly matched local wines (thank you, sommelier Massimo). Sample handmade gnocchi with Chianti truffles, beef loin in wine sauce and traditional Siena cake, made with spiced fruit and almonds. The menu changes daily, reflecting what’s growing outside. You’ll be distracted by Ristoro l'Antica Scuderia's diminutive mediaeval village, Passignano: save time for exploring it either pre- or post-meal. Scuderia’s dining room (on Strada Comunale di Badia in Tavarnelle Val di Pesa) is very beautiful, and matched by the flawless food: osso bucco, diavalo pizza, steak with truffles, burrata with truffles, pasta with truffles… you get the idea. There’s a pretty patio for al fresco lunches. Of course, the wine is wonderful (+39 055 807 1623; www.ristorolanticascuderia.com).




Photos Castello del Nero – Tuscany – Italy

Anonymous review

Rarely do I prepare for holidays with such verve. But with a month in Italy, I was determined to get the max out of this trip. My husband is a history scholar and I knew exploring every stone in ancient ruins was on his agenda. So I needed a rescue plan. Where would we meet half way? Around Montalcino and Chianti. And what I really needed was a spa especially for my feet. How to sell in this idea to Mr Smith?

The answer: Castello del Nero a 12th-century castle. The one-time residence of the namesake noble Florentine family, it was rescued from rubble by their descendent, Carlo Torrigiani, and his American wife, Anna Frey. They worked tirelessly to restore the residence and land back to its former glory. And now it is a boutique hotel and spa with a 16th-century private chapel dedicated to San Michele. Its description, delivered with a few flamboyant hand gestures and romantic words, had it sold to the hubby in no time, too. Roll forward then to the actual trip and my feet are by now in need of a serious rest. Those ancient stones are most unforgiving – how did those sandalled Roman solders do it?

Nothing could be more perfect than the drive up to the Castello del Nero. This Australian has always been a sucker for crunching gravel as you arrive at a private house. Imposing without being too grand, a big smile and a cool, scented towel for our brows soon make the welcome all the warmer. After a quick view of the pool and amazing garden, past my favourite green hydrangeas, we’re shown to our suite. A large mezzanine-split room with shuttered windows opening to the view over valleys of olive groves and vineyards stretching towards the horizon.

Who doesn’t love luxury touches when travelling? The delivery on details abounds at Castello del Nero: downstairs, a fine cashmere rug to curl up with when you watch movies; upstairs, pristine, embroidered linen that is ever so slightly scented. And those pillows! It is so inviting that I have to stop Mr Smith from diving onto the bed.

To the pool! Passing a mown-to-perfection lawn, we find a rose-filled corner of the garden that feels almost English. Then we see the outdoor tennis courts. But it is a rest day for this pair. As we arrive at the pool house, a quiet but wonderful suggestion is made: would we like a hamburger put onto the barbecue and perhaps a Campari and blood-orange juice? Does the Pope wear Prada shoes? An afternoon sleep on some serious deckchairs, with English papers scattered around us, and it almost feels like home.

‘Look there is a spa,’ I say. ‘I’m not going to a spa,’ comes the response. ’Just have a look,’ I plead. Segue from gentle persuasion to finding us in the thermal suite. The range of heating and cooling experiences soon soothes aching muscles. Mr Smith’s wide smile indicates I’ve made a convert. Special showers infused with mint and lavender, circulation-boosting ice fountains, aromatic caldarium steam rooms – Mr Smith, the spa refusenik, is now hooked. We spend hours being pampered. Holistic foot treatment with hot stones and a relaxing acupressure-point massage and paraffin dip. When those waxy pale pink booties are removed I wonder if she’s given me someone else’s feet. I float, skip, jump about, and then join my husband in the tranquillity room, where he is sipping fragrant tea.

Joy of joys. It’s been all I planned and more, and there’s still dinner in La Torre, the elegant dining room. On arrival, our eyes are drawn to the exquisitely decorated fireplace that complements high ceilings and terracotta floors. Large French windows overlook the landscape of the Castello del Nero estate.

Our waitress tells us that the estate produces its own red wine and extra virgin olive oil. I find out too late that I could have booked a cooking class with the well-known chef. Next time! Since we are in truffle country I want to try the Tuscan cuisine teamed with the earthiness of truffles. Slow-poached hen’s egg with crispy rice, sheep’s cheese and black truffle gets the party started.

The bliss continues the next day at breakfast. Sunday’s first meal of the day should be a slow and indulgent delight in my books. A serious spread of freshly baked breads and pastries, home-made jams and cooked dishes promises all we could desire. It’s only having a day trip planned that we break our breakfasting at all. Tennis lessons, mountain-bike tours and horse riding have been offered, and all sound great – to Mr Smith. I watch my husband’s face light up at the suggestion of ballooning; he sees the muscles on mine spell out NO. So we opt for a trip to Siena – the mention of this historical town has his face lighting up again. All day on our feet again but by the end we’re back home, or at least it feels like home, curled up in that lightweight cashmere throw. We look at each other and agree instantly on the next activity: room service.

The Guestbook

Whenever you book a stay at a Smith Hotel with us, we’ll invite you to review it when you get back. Read what other Smith members had to say in Castello del Nero’s Guestbook below.

We loved

The garden is beautiful and the view is fantastic. Nine out of 10.

Don’t expect

The Classic Double room #203 we stayed in seemed small and noisy. We heard loud high heel footstep constantly in the day and night. The frequent door slamming really disturbed my sleep. The room seemed always warm and we can't set the temperature to be comfortable. After we open the windows briefly, my wife and I got many mosquitoes bites.


Stayed on 6 Oct 2015

We loved

How elegant and luxurious the hotel felt. The service was great, the food was great and views were spectacular.

Don’t expect

Any bargains...the hotel and the food is quite expensive but in line with the hotel class.


Stayed on 18 Sep 2015

We loved

Having earlier visited the palatial L'Albereta, we were equally impressed with this majestic resort. Just when we thought that Castello's second tier restaurant was exceptional (it is far from a casual eatery, but, if only once, you must try the 1.2kg brute, known as Bistecca all Fiorentina, but make it for 2) we attended Castello's Michelin-Star-rated restaurant, La Torre - stunning and well-presented food, as you might expect. You won't be disappointed with the buffet breakfast which is complemented by your choice of chef's hot-cooked main (if you are not happy with the scrambled eggs option). The surrounding Tuscan hills are an absolute delight, with hill after hill of wineries and olive groves - just a gorgeous part of Italy

Don’t expect

Anything much within walking distance, although there are some fascinating hiking trails around the resort.


Stayed on 27 Jul 2015