Borgo Canonica

People often talk about ‘trullo hunting’ in and around Puglia’s Itria Valley. Truth is, these diminutive conical-roofed buildings are impossible to miss. There must be thousands of trulli scattered across the fields and hills of this verdant, undulating landscape – like something out of a fairytale, these enchanted homes that seem to belong to southern Italian elves.

Dating back to the 19th century, trulli were quick and easy shelters for farmers to build, using the uneven rocks that littered their pastures. They served as temporary accommodation, storehouses or labourers’ lodgings, and many of them remain untouched since their last inhabitants left – crumbling, cobwebbed artefacts of an ancient Pugliese way of life. Others have been extended into full-sized family homes, their roofs hitched up to accommodate loftier modern ceiling heights. Those that line the hillside streets of Alberobello have been turned into souvenir shops and cafés, an Instagram-perfect backdrop for busloads of tourists. But few are as photogenic as the tiny trulli hamlet turned luxury hotel that now goes by the name of Borgo Canonica.

Like many of the best boutique hotels, getting to Borgo Canonica involves driving along winding, pothole-pocked lanes through seemingly deserted countryside, with a growing sense of regret at not having shelled out for comprehensive hire-car insurance and many utterances of ‘are you sure we’re in the right place?’ But, once we’d arrived, all these annoyances were forgotten in an instant.

‘Borgo’ (Italian for ‘village’) has 42 trulli, plus various outbuildings scattered over a secluded hillside near Cisternino, which once housed a handful of families. Now fully refurbished, the whitewashed buildings contain 14 suites that are light years away from their humble origins in terms of comfort and style. Our double suite featured a lounge area with sofa and desk, a king-size bed underneath the conical roof, and a bright, spacious ensuite bathroom, complete with a rainfall shower and locally made, organic olive-oil toiletries.

The decor is minimal: pallid walls are enlivened with the odd ceramic vase, and a stylish light fitting hangs from the middle of the tapered ceiling. Natural materials in earthy, neutral hues set the tranquil tone. At first it felt sparse compared to the lavishly styled hotels we usually stay in, but soon we felt very soothed by being cocooned in this unassuming space, with its small windows and thick walls of age-old exposed stone. The simplicity of our surroundings encouraged us to switch off and embrace a more leisurely pace of life.

Belongings unpacked – the single hanging rail provided had ample space for clothes – we set off to explore what would be our home for the next few days. Cobbled paths weave between the Borgo’s trulli, most of which have a private outdoor area. Prickly-pear cacti grow by ancient dry-stone walls and, with those pointed roofs visible from every angle, you’d struggle to find a more typically Pugliese photo-op. The best view is from the far side of the sizeable swimming pool, with a centuries-old olive tree in the foreground and scenes of utter pastoral peace beyond.
On sunny days (of which Puglia has plenty), it would be hard to tear yourself away from the padded sunloungers that surround the pool. Surrounded by bucolic views, your face warmed by the sun as waiters mill around serving glasses of the excellent local rosé, your intentions of finishing the novel you started on the plane could easily be swept aside for a contented cat-nap. Come sunset, some guests remain at this poolside idyll – there’s plenty of space for groups to congregate or couples to hide away – while others might retreat to their private patios for alfresco aperitivo. The trulli are particularly magical at night, aglow under the vast star-strewn sky, and the silence makes the scene all the more bewitching.

Dinner is served in a former outbuilding adjacent to the pool: an ambitiously gourmet affair, guests are asked to book at reception each day and choose from two four-course menus focused around meat or fish, both of which star locally-sourced produce. The menus change every day, but might feature stracciatella cheese and garden vegetables, cuttlefish with chicory, or garlic, olive-oil and fava-bean pasta – best washed down with a glass of primitivo, all served by earnest and enthusiastic staff.

Breakfast is more casual: a spread of pastries, yoghurts, fruits and cheese (burrata for breakfast is positively encouraged), along with a choice of omelettes and egg dishes. Finish with a slice of homemade cake – the pear and ricotta is particularly sublime – to fuel up for a day of sightseeing. The village of Cisternino, with its lively market squares and abundance of charming cafés and restaurants is a 10-minute drive away, and the hotel is the perfect base for day trips, taking in Alberobello, Locorotondo, Martina Franca and Ostuni. All are worth a visit, offering history, fine food and Pugliese hospitality in spades. But, if instead you choose to stay put by that pool, contemplating another slice of cake, well, we wouldn’t blame you at all.