Bonzoe Suites & Villas

On arrival at Mykonos airport, the searing heat of the day made me feel foolish for still wearing my jumper and desperate to change into more holiday-friendly clothes. So Mr Smith and I hopped in a cab and after just a 20-minute drive arrived at boutique retreat Bonzoe Suites & Villas where we were staying for two days, until departing by ferry for some Greek island exploring. The hotel has just seven rooms and villas, so it still has that intimate, small-scale feel. Almost all are booked up during our stay, but due to the clever lay-out we don’t hear or see a peep out of any other guests. 

We’re led to our villa by a welcoming member of staff, being guided past a wall heaving with trailing vines of fuchsia bougainvillaea to our tucked-away room. Our terrace has views straight out to sea, with a private heated pool front and centre, framed by blue skies and waters – a sight that really does pack a punch. A garden stretches out in front of the pool flanked by tall grasses swaying softly in the wind in a hypnotising manner, making it all the more private and adding some relaxing ASMR swishing.

The look is low-key luxury, with a modern, functional exterior. We stayed in the One Bedroom Suite Sea View Villa, a generously proportioned hideaway with high ceilings, decorated in a calming neutral palette. Rattan wardrobes add a stylish touch, and playful glass light fittings a soft glow. The whole aesthetic – from the taupe-hued furnishings to a super-soft bed you’ll have to drag yourself away from – encourages you to do just one thing: relax. I jumped in the shower to freshen myself up and ended it wrapped in a towel Googling the brand name of the toiletries, as my hair has never smelt so good. Botanica, by the way – you’re welcome.

Bonzoe is perfectly positioned on the island behind Paralia Megali Ammos Beach, just a 10-minute drive or 20-minute stroll along the coast from Mykonos town. It’s a perfect base from which to explore the island, whether you want cosmopolitan shopping and dining or to hop the quieter beaches in the north, from here you can discover the Mykonos you want. 

We arrived hungry, so headed into town for lunch where we grabbed some vegan food and stopped to check out Gioras Wood Medieval Mykonian Bakery, which is rather hidden, with only a small sign outside hinting at what’s within. Enter and you discover a cavern filled with delicious pastries that has been serving since the 18th century. Glass cabinets showcase all-too-tempting nut-studded chocolates, baklava and homemade pastries, and I leave with a bag full of Greek delicacies to try. It’s also a great place to have a morning coffee and pick up snacks for a picnic on the beach. And, a recommended spot we didn’t manage to make it to was traditional grill restaurant Kiki’s Tavern, positioned near Agios Sostis Beach – one for the return visit.

After navigating the maze of paths that make up Mykonos town, we were excited to get back to our little enclave to enjoy those last rays of lingering sun and take up the staff’s suggestion of ordering some food in (there’s only room service on-site). I mean, we wouldn’t have found a restaurant with a better view or ambience than where we were situated, so we did just that, dining on the terrace and drinking the free bottle of rosé that the staff left for us.

The next day we woke early wanting to make the most of the glorious weather. Some over-zealous ticking of the breakfast menu the night before means that the table is heaving with dishes: fresh juices, fruits, croissants, granola, yoghurt, omelettes…after which we need to lie down again beside the pool. Staying here you can easily imagine this to be your own villa, but with the luxuries of a high-end hotel and staff on hand to help you at any moment; always discreet and reliable, and reachable on Whatsapp, which myself and Mr Smith found really useful, pinging over any questions we had and sorting multiple bookings with ease. In fact, the amazing service comes up repeatedly in online reviews; deservedly so, as it really is formidable.

Our private pool looks out onto the sea and is framed by the comfiest seating arrangement – no plastic sunloungers here, instead a huge cushioned sofa, giant chair and a padded day-bed. Enough to play musical chairs with, which we do later in the day as the sun starts to set, with me trying out each seating option, Goldilocks-style. (I can assure you they were all equally comfortable.) Lounging around outside all day, reading books in our just-right spot, sheltered from the wind and concealed from the world, we feel utterly at peace.

Bonzoe really comes into its own in the evenings; as the sun sets, the sky melts into ombré reds and oranges, with boats in the foreground peacefully passing by into port. It’s so mesmerising I have to tear myself from my lounge chair and change quickly because we’re running late for dinner. We head into town and stop at Eva’s Garden, a traditional restaurant with a small simple menu and a beautiful location, tucked away on a quiet street, with a vine-wrapped veranda that’s a sanctuary from the bustling streets. 

If we were staying anywhere else, we may have gone out for drinks after dinner but Bonzoe Suites & Villas’ unique magic and superlative setting – and that unbeatable view – draws us back, this time and likely in the future too.