Amanjena

As the old adage goes, ’You never get a second chance at a first impression’; but, regal Moroccan hideaway Amanjena needn’t worry – it made a great one. Pulling up to the palatial, sun-baked property our jaws dropped a solid inch. Collecting ourselves, we stepped inside and were offered mint tea and some delicate baked goods (take your pick from pistachio or chocolate), which we nibbled and sipped while attempting to rotate our heads in an awe-struck owl-like fashion. To quench our curiosity, we ventured off on a short tour of the opulent interiors, and down one of many rose-toned avenues we found our room. Following a swift check-in, Mr Smith and I were left to enjoy our quarters. 

We took up residence in one of the Pavilion Piscines, meaning that, yes, we had our own pool, set within a large garden, complete with outdoor gazebo. As for the bedroom itself, around a central king-size bed are Berber carpets, gradated green zellige-tiled floors and dark woods, all of which create a traditional Moroccan feel with some Aman flair. The room’s circular shape and domed ceiling further added to the calm that permeated the space. As a bit of a post-flight ritual, Mrs Smith drew a bath, and while it filled, we settled: toiletries were dispersed across the twin sinks while umpteen shoes and an assortment of clothes were deposited into their relevant his-and-hers dressing areas. 

Post-bath, wrapped up in a fluffy RKF linen robe and doused in Aman spa products, I sauntered out onto the patio. Keen for a proper snoop about, I quickly dressed, and we made tracks in the rough direction of the pool. On reaching the sun-drenched courtyard, dotted with mint-coloured umbrellas, we were shown to cushioned day-beds and decamped for a couple of hours. Chilled water is left in arm’s reach and neat, rectangular pillows are placed just behind our heads. A stomach grumble (from Mr Smith) prompts our lunch break. We nab a shaded table at Arva, Aman’s signature Italian restaurant. Plotted at the far end of the pool, the casual eatery’s mosaic-topped tables are positioned under a series of arches in view of the water. A menu of wood-fired pizzas cooked up fresh in the outdoor oven, some excellent salad options (the poke bowl was delicious), and moreish desserts offered ample variety. 

Having exerted all that energy, it was back to day-bed flopping, until we had to return to our room to get ready for dinner, of course. Scrubbed up, we took pre-dinner drinks in the romantic courtyard, where tables are discreetly separated by greenery and candlelight flickers in all directions. A jazzy rendition of Falling in Love with Love played in the background and I found myself falling a bit in love myself, with this magical place. The Moroccan Restaurant has similarly knee-weakening powers, as you enter its white and amber dining room, with its tea-light-decorated trees and willowy candles atop tables. And the arrangement of slim marble columns and long drapes subtly offers diners a little more intimacy. As the name suggests, menus are largely Moroccan, made using traditional Berber methods. The chicken tagine with candied lemon was a stand-out; but if you’d rather sample something from the Italian menu, the squid-ink risotto is a good choice. 

Post-dinner, and back in our suite, we called on a member of staff to light our fireplace – note to self: it’s a smarter idea to do this earlier in the evening, as the room did become quite smoky, if atmospheric. Lying in bed, reddened eyes aside, you really appreciate the domed ceiling – turn on your bedside lanterns and they’ll project interesting silhouettes from their metal frames. A little light-show danced serenely before us – and then the TV (discreetly placed behind shutters to one side of the room) was switched on, somewhat killing the calm. 

Mornings start with an à la carte breakfast, included in your room rate. You can choose to dine in the restaurant or by the pool, and there’s an additional charge if you’d like to have it served to your door. Tempting pastries arrive at the table shortly after you’ve taken your seat and there’s a range of hot and cold dishes, with Moroccan flavours: yoghurt with orange blossom and dates, shakshuka, and traditional Moroccan pancakes with amlou and argan oil… 

Post-breakfast, we struggled to decide what to do: borrow the hotel’s free-to-use bikes and cycle around the grounds? Play a round of tennis on one of the clay courts? Or perhaps some spa time… I chose the least exerting option: the spa. You can choose from facials, scrubs, massages, wraps, and more, as well as manis and pedis, or sign up to a half- or full-day retreat, like the Rest Easy Anti-Stress Experience. Or you could sweat it out in either the (smaller than expected) fitness centre, or the hammam and Jacuzzi. After some downtime, we visited the neighbouring boutique to pick up Aman merch and snoop on other delights, such as traditional tunics and kaftans, PJ sets and leather goods. 

Then the weather took a turn, so heated games of rummy and orders of tiramisu by the fire dominated the remainder of the afternoon. With a stormy evening on the cards, we changed and made our way towards the moodily lit bar for a sharpener. For dinner on night two, we took a peek at Amanjena’s Japanese restaurant Nama. It ‘celebrates Japan’s Unesco-protected washoku cuisine’, and sushi and sashimi form the core of the menu; and from Wednesday to Sunday diners can watch the chefs work the robata grill and prep fresh fish at the sushi counter. 

Lapping up the last of our chilled-out getaway, we wait until the last second of our midday check-out (which is flexible, pending availability), and there’s one last luxurious touch, with a free airport transfer to Marrakech Menara Airport (around a 20-minute drive from the hotel). Reflecting on our trip as a whole, our favourite elements included Ed Tuttle’s striking design, the sense of total seclusion, and the brilliantly attentive staff – from first to last, the overall impression it left was very good indeed, but we might be willing to give it a chance for a second…