Aman Tokyo

It’s fair to say Mrs Smith and I were excited. She was born in Tokyo and hadn’t been back in more than 30 years. For me, as a chef, Japan’s capital is the green mile, the yellow brick road and the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow, all rolled into one. I’d wanted to go for at least 10 years but with work and a very busy schedule it’s been practically impossible. Until I opened a restaurant in Asia, anyway…

Given we were fitting our Tokyo trip around work, then, we needed to be sure we were hitting all the right spots. For me it was all about food, food and more food; Mrs Smith wanted to ensure we were also getting a good dose of culture, history and temple viewing, too.

We touched down on a Saturday evening in late May, the very beginning of the Sakura season, and hopped in a cab from the airport. When we arrived, our jaws dropped a little at our £200 fare. The waiting doorman explained that unfortunately that was the rate; most people take a quick and easy train.

As soon as we stepped out of the elevator and into the 35th-floor lobby, though, we forgot all about that rookie mistake. Nothing we saw or experienced in the Aman Tokyo from that point onwards was short of fabulous.

We were greeted with huge beaming smiles and customary Japanese bows and escorted to our room, without any of the usual hassles of checking in. Our suite was so tastefully done; natural woods, great furniture and the most amazing views of Tokyo by night. Delicious sushi rolls were waiting for us in the dining area, along with a chilled bottle of aged sake – we duly obliged.

Then there was the bathroom, with its traditional Japanese granite tub and shower in front of huge plate glass windows with more breathtaking Tokyo views. The bath was so inviting, we had to get right in, carefully following the instructions for the salts and other beautifully packaged accompaniments. Relaxed, we tucked ourselves into bed and fell asleep in seconds.

When we woke up and opened the blinds, we were greeted by the most beautiful sunrise and a panorama of the city by day – just as mesmerizing as the night view. After some breakfast, we stopped by the concierge desk before heading off for the day. They couldn’t have been more helpful – in fact, they played a vital role in restaurant bookings (which can be extremely tricky) and general advice on how to sequence all the sights and activities we wanted to pack in.

Our two days in Tokyo were amazing: we ate like kings and walked like mountain goats from north to south; east to west. One highlight (despite it involving us getting up at 4am) was Tsukji, the Tokyo fish market. I’d organized it with super-chef Namae-San – we had a little walk around the market first, then we were taken into the (bitterly cold) tuna auctions. It was a remarkable site to watch – the auctioneers stood on their little wooden stools, rang a bell and then it was off. They got the buyers in an excited frenzy and boy did it work: the tuna sold faster than I could say John West.

Because we were on our strict self-imposed timetable and had so many things to do, places to see and restaurants to try, our only regret was that we wouldn’t be spending enough time at the hotel itself. One thing we weren’t going to miss out on, though, was a visit to the spa.

It comprised eight treatment rooms, large Japanese hot baths, a stunning 30-metre city-view pool and a fitness centre, all in an extraordinary light-filled sanctuary set high among the skyline. We shared an amazing (and well deserved) massage during which we both nodded off (always a good sign).

Afterwards, we took an evening dip in the black granite-hewn pool, which we somehow had all to ourselves. After a few lengths we looked at each other as if to say ‘how do we ever leave’?

Before we headed to dinner, we managed to sneak in a cocktail or two at the fumoir bar where elegant lounging chairs and sofas were slumped in and barmen hustled their corners. The city is very well known for its whiskies (dozens of bottles lined the walls), so I had a house-mixed cocktail and one of my favorite classics: a whisky sour. Both were sublime.

A quick day-and-a-half detour to Kyoto followed, for more food, markets, temples and knife buying, before our Japan trip was drawing to an end – far too quickly, of course. We’d initially planned to try another venue for our last night back in Tokyo, but then thought we should end on the highest possible note.

And so it was that we checked back into the Aman, where the amazing surroundings, the consistent impeccable service and the many smiles made our stay a most memorable one. When (not if) we come back, we know exactly where we’ll be heading. Next time we’ll take the train from the airport, though…