Mr & Mrs Smith

Visit the largest and best preserved mediaeval walled town in Europe, the Unesco-stamped La Cité de Carcassonne. For another tick on your World-Heritage checklist, take a boat trip along the Canal du Midi (a two-hour ride is about €10).

Carcassonne itself, where you're staying (it's confusing, but this is the bigger main town – still charming, but not the cobbled mediaeval Cité), is also worth a good wander around for a glimpse at genuine French life without the tourist buzz. The local markets, daily games of boules and various wine and music festivals are always going on behind the scenes. In summer, sample the local vineyards, in winter ski and snowboarding or even husky-dog excursions can be arranged.