Mr & Mrs Smith

The village of Yelapa has a handful of basic eateries, but Verana's gifted chef rules the culinary roost in these parts. Do pick up a little something from one of the town's little pastry shops, though – the custard tarts are renowned throughout the country.

Yelapa tends to be flooded with tourists during the day, but it's neverthless worth an afternoon's meander. The coastline to the south of the village makes for rewarding exploration by boat – Verana can arrange day trips stopping off at the fishing villages of Pizota, Chimo and Corales, and featuring snorkelling and fishing excursions followed by a freshly prepared ceviche on the beach.

Take a trip to the Marietas Islands, a wildlife sanctuary and marine reserve that's home to a dazzling array of sea life. Look out for giant manta rays, dolphins, humpback whales, and turtles on the boat ride over, and keep your eyes peeled for the blue-footed booby – other than the Galapagos, this is its only natural habitat.

Cathedral Falls, where there's a lovely deep pool ideal for wild swimming,  are within hiking or horse-riding distance of Verana.